Rear Axle

I've been hoping someone would say that.

I've never owned a Jeep so I've never formally meet Dana but she seems nice enough.

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You've met her cousin 'Spicer' from the u-joint in your driveshaft though.

:rofl:
 
The D60 flange is different, but it also needs to be shortened due to the bigger axle.

How much shorter is the question, not sure of the differences between the FJ t-case and 4runner t-case, and other potential differences from the shorter FJ frame. I'm sure there is some wiggle room though, but if I could order an driveshaft in advance I could finish it in one weekend and wouldn't need a daily driver.

PS my brother is still waiting on his full float Diamond, nearly a year now. Probably the priciest option but one of the coolest. Work on their first production batch of axles is taking a while. The first full float rear end compatible with Toyota hubs.
I can see the length needing addressed, but why wouldn't they just use a Toyota flange on the 60? there are a few companies that make them. the Toyota u-joint and driveshaft connection are superior in strength and working angle than the Dana stuff.
 
I can see the length needing addressed, but why wouldn't they just use a Toyota flange on the 60? there are a few companies that make them. the Toyota u-joint and driveshaft connection are superior in strength and working angle than the Dana stuff.

I guess I was just assuming, didn't realize that was possible.

That would make it a bit easier, I wonder if I can shorten it myself.
 
Buddy just got off the phone with ECGS. The D60 they offer is 100% bolt on; reuses factory drive shaft, reuses axle shafts (if Ox locker), new panhard included to clear the larger center. That's $3300 shipped for a 100% bolt on axle with gears and a locker. Can upgrade to 35 spline shafts etc as well for additional cost
 
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Buddy just got off the phone with ECGS. The D60 they offer is 100% bolt on; reuses factory drive shaft, reuses axle shafts (if Ox locker), new panhard included to clear the larger center. That's $3300 shipped for a 100% bolt on axle with gears and a locker. Can upgrade to 35 spline shafts etc as well for additional cost
I'll keep that in mind when Ive got a spare 3-5k. My gears and lockers are warrantied for another 4 years so I've got time to save.

In the meantime. Picked up this 2003 junker. Seals look decent. I'm working on removing the rust with some gel shit I picked up (that seems to be working well) and I'll paint it with high temp auto paint before I swap everything over.

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I'll keep that in mind when Ive got a spare 3-5k. My gears and lockers are warrantied for another 4 years so I've got time to save.

In the meantime. Picked up this 2003 junker. Seals look decent. I'm working on removing the rust with some gel shit I picked up (that seems to be working well) and I'll paint it with high temp auto paint before I swap everything over.
Yeah, you're already invested in the 8", doesn't necessarily make sense to swap. But for those of us still on stock gears the extra ~1500 for a dramatically stronger axle makes sense. You should be able to sell yours to help cover the cost (~1500 for the third?) but still expensive.
 
Buddy just got off the phone with ECGS. The D60 they offer is 100% bolt on; reuses factory drive shaft, reuses axle shafts (if Ox locker), new panhard included to clear the larger center. That's $3300 shipped for a 100% bolt on axle with gears and a locker. Can upgrade to 35 spline shafts etc as well for additional cost

That seems to be a little different information than the FJ thread I linked above, I'm curious about the OEM driveshaft bit, I might be calling them soon to confirm, do you think it's length still needs modified?

Don't forget the low pinion part! Currie's is high pinion, better angle/more dshaft clearance but weaker gears. Not that anybody breaks the Currie on our Yota's. Better price than Currie's too. Good to have options.

It would be pointless IMO to keep stock axle shafts. I haven't heard of anybody breaking a shaft with the 8.0 (always the gears first), but one or two have with the 8.2 (5th gen/new FJ's).
 
Mount collapsed in the rear pushing the tube down then sometime later I smashed into the bolt which bent it. Attempts and bending it back into place failed and I eventually stripped out the inside of the tube trying to force the bolt and shock back on.

We're working on a gusset solution for the mounts vs a cut/replace mount. No clue how I'm going to gusset the axle from bending though. That's more of a trussing thing and will probably be further down the line.
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That mount location sucks and there doesn't seem to be a good place to add a skid like with the LCA mounts. I bet it could be relocated to the rear of the housing. Might work really well with the rear axle relocate some guys do.

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That mount location sucks and there doesn't seem to be a good place to add a skid like with the LCA mounts. I bet it could be relocated to the rear of the housing. Might work really well with the rear axle relocate some guys do.

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You could cut the mount and put it higher, but you'll also have to move the upper mount too. Otherwise you start losing travel because you have to keep the shock from topping out. We're thinking 3/16-1/4" plates to gusset the mount and prevent direct hits from causing issues like this. The mount hanging low allows it to smash into things, we need to make it strong enough to withstand those hits.

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That seems to be a little different information than the FJ thread I linked above, I'm curious about the OEM driveshaft bit, I might be calling them soon to confirm, do you think it's length still needs modified?

Don't forget the low pinion part! Currie's is high pinion, better angle/more dshaft clearance but weaker gears. Not that anybody breaks the Currie on our Yota's. Better price than Currie's too. Good to have options.

It would be pointless IMO to keep stock axle shafts. I haven't heard of anybody breaking a shaft with the 8.0 (always the gears first), but one or two have with the 8.2 (5th gen/new FJ's).
I was told by two people who had called specifically about this that it's a 100% bolt on application for the 120 platform. I will call at some point to triple check, but it should reuse the factory drive shaft it sounds like.

And I agree that upgrading axle shafts is a good idea, but there are few enough failure reports on the axle shafts and they are cheap enough where I'm not incredibly worried about it with just 35s. Can upgrade to chromoly shafts for a small strength increase at $500 later if needed. ($700 to upgrade to 35 spline, but requires sending in your backing plates and taking the rig out of commission while it's being built)
 
I was told by two people who had called specifically about this that it's a 100% bolt on application for the 120 platform. I will call at some point to triple check, but it should reuse the factory drive shaft it sounds like.

And I agree that upgrading axle shafts is a good idea, but there are few enough failure reports on the axle shafts and they are cheap enough where I'm not incredibly worried about it with just 35s. Can upgrade to chromoly shafts for a small strength increase at $500 later if needed. ($700 to upgrade to 35 spline, but requires sending in your backing plates and taking the rig out of commission while it's being built)

These rear axles aren't full float, it'll be a PITA to swap an axle shaft, impossible on the trail. I would actually prefer the R&P busting on a Toyota diff, you could swap the gearset on the trail.

But with 35's you might be fine, and it's more cost effective though if you have them build the entire axle (backing plates and shafts) you can sell your entire old axle complete.

Looks like ECGS has the product page up for this bad boy, last I checked they didn't have anything for it on their website. Lots to think about.
 
I was told by two people who had called specifically about this that it's a 100% bolt on application for the 120 platform. I will call at some point to triple check, but it should reuse the factory drive shaft it sounds like.

My brother emailed, they said the driveshaft still needs shortened.
 
My brother emailed, they said the driveshaft still needs shortened.
Yeah, third person just got back to me and said the same thing. Easy and cheap'ish fix. Still prob going the ecgs d60 route with ox locker. My other option is getting the 8.2 and use the savings to get a front locker. But d60 would still be good even if I end up on 37s later
 
I'm interested in your third member if it's still 3.73 and you'd ship it.

Only place I'd be willing to ship this 3rd member to is ECGS and if they pay enough for it. hahah. Right now it has to be returned with the core if I decide to return the core. If not I'm probably selling the 3rd to my buddy so he can use it as an ECGS core so his truck isn't down while he's getting gears made.
 

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