Ok so lately i noticed when I park my car for a bit , and I go to use it and put in drive it will not roll from idle . Almost like it’s stuck. Only after driving does it go back to normal. I don’t have any fluid on rim or tire that is indicative of axle seals . The passenger side looks to have maybe something coming from the axle flange but nothing soaked just a little discoloring of the dirt. It’s hard to tell because The backing plate is a little muddy. Could it be a wheel cylinder? I don’t use the E-brake but I did put it on a few times today to see if it would cause the Same problem. It did . Any info is appreciated.
Rear brakes sticking
- Thread starter Bigmd
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sockeyesalmon
Member
check your bell crank
zcruiser
Senior Member
I had that condition and it drove me crazy for a while.
It would bind up starting from standstill, then POP, the truck would take off.
It was contaminated rear brake drums. The shoes were binding inside the drums.
Pull yours and either replace or resurface. Minimum, you will need new rear brake shoes.
It would bind up starting from standstill, then POP, the truck would take off.
It was contaminated rear brake drums. The shoes were binding inside the drums.
Pull yours and either replace or resurface. Minimum, you will need new rear brake shoes.
metallitera
New member
Shouldn't need to replace cylinders unless they're leaking or damaged.
More than likely your problem is only with the shoes and/or drums.
More than likely your problem is only with the shoes and/or drums.
JRZEE2000TR4LTD
Senior Member
Are you sure your seals aren't leaking? My first 4Runner had the "grease" build up in the drum area. On the inside. No dripping or anything. I too thought wheel cylinder. It was the seals. But check your Rear dif breather first.
mtbtim
Elite Member
Dude, you're having a brake issue so do some investigating. Jack up the rear end until the tires are off the ground. Support the axle housing on either side with jack stands. Pull the wheels off and then pull the drums off. If you're having some problems getting the drums off, the video below will help you get them off. Like somebody mentioned above, it could be your bell crank hanging up and not fully releasing the parking brake. It also like others have said be contaminated brake shoes. Let us know what you find. Pictures are very helpful.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/IJkVEBYSecs" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/IJkVEBYSecs" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
mtbtim
Elite Member
The breather is screwed into the top of the axle housing more towards the driver side. Take a deep 14mm socket or box end wrench and unscrew it from the housing. Wipe off the threads with a rag, put your lips around the threads and blow. If the valve opens letting out the pressure you're introducing, it's working.
mtbtim
Elite Member
Look at the video I linked. Start watching at 18:37. I explain how you can come through the access hole on the back of the backing plate to turn the auto adjuster so you can remove the brake drum easily.
Update on this thread . I decided since my housing was rusted and backing plates are rotted I mine as well replace everything. I located a housing locally cheap . Got it to my garage and stripped it . My buddy is gonna sand blast and Powdercoat it. I’ve ordered all the parts for bearing and seal replacement. Also have backing plates on the way and will order new brakes . This way I have piece of mind that I shouldn’t have to worry about the seals anymore.
96RedRunner
Senior Member
There are tricks to seal install, Tim has good video on it.
96RedRunner
Senior Member
Good plan with axle's. I was speaking of the seals new design the ones I installed I did not bottom them out
in the housing was 2-3 mm's from it, put seal lip in a nice spot on collar that's on axle.
in the housing was 2-3 mm's from it, put seal lip in a nice spot on collar that's on axle.
NiiloTroca
Junior Member
Rear drivers side wheel sticking
I noticed that when it gets cold, my rear driver side brake seems to be sticking pretty bad. Reading the thread above, it could likely be a leaking seal on that side. I plan to inspect the brakes on that wheel, and if I see evidence of a leaky seal, I will probably have to repair the seals. My question is, would I only have to replace the seal and leave everything else as is? Or, would I need to plan on replacing several of the parts, including possibly the wheel bearing while I’m in there? Another question is, does anyone have a shop they would recommend in Austin Texas area?
I noticed that when it gets cold, my rear driver side brake seems to be sticking pretty bad. Reading the thread above, it could likely be a leaking seal on that side. I plan to inspect the brakes on that wheel, and if I see evidence of a leaky seal, I will probably have to repair the seals. My question is, would I only have to replace the seal and leave everything else as is? Or, would I need to plan on replacing several of the parts, including possibly the wheel bearing while I’m in there? Another question is, does anyone have a shop they would recommend in Austin Texas area?
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phattyduck
Elite Member
If an axle seal leak gets to the brakes, it went through the bearing... and washed out the grease. It should all be replaced, If you want to risk it, at least inject new bearing grease (with a grease needle) in that old bearing.
There are a few good threads about wheel bearings on here along with the Timmy the Toolman videos on YouTube for more information.
-Charlie
There are a few good threads about wheel bearings on here along with the Timmy the Toolman videos on YouTube for more information.
-Charlie
