I'd be careful there. If the aluminum threads decide to gall, you'll take the threads out right along with the bolt with an impact wrench. Break it loose and then take it out slowly by hand, reversing direction for a half turn or so if you feel it binding up. May take you a couple of minutes of back and forth to get it out, but that's better than putting in a helicoil later.
Rear diff drain plug, forgot washer
- Thread starter freeflight
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I'd be careful there. If the aluminum threads decide to gall, you'll take the threads out right along with the bolt with an impact wrench. Break it loose and then take it out slowly by hand, reversing direction for a half turn or so if you feel it binding up. May take you a couple of minutes of back and forth to get it out, but that's better than putting in a helicoil later.
What kind of green is it? Like really cloudy/milky green like from
moisture contamination? Or the faint greenish that you pick up in gear lubes in sunlight? It's your truck and everything and I could completely be in left field about the roll washers play in help holding things from working loose but it's not one I'd like prove positive. Meaning it most likely will be fine, but you do understand if it does work loose you're off to the races with no horse in the money.
moisture contamination? Or the faint greenish that you pick up in gear lubes in sunlight? It's your truck and everything and I could completely be in left field about the roll washers play in help holding things from working loose but it's not one I'd like prove positive. Meaning it most likely will be fine, but you do understand if it does work loose you're off to the races with no horse in the money.
freeflight
New member
I would say it is a faint green, almost shining under the head lamp. Not muddy or milky, I have seen those in water contaminated diff fluid before. I got a picture. The fluid is dark color :embarassed: You can barely see the green hue in the bottom right corner due to cellphone camera flash...
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I think that green sheen that catches the light is rather normal for many gear lubes. And I don't think that's really that dark for as many miles as you say are on it. It doesn't smell burnt does it? No grit on a clean towel ,no bits of metal shinning in the glint of sunlight-seems you're good to go.
freeflight
New member
It stinks but doesn't smell burnt. No grit or shinning. The oil left on the bottom of oil drain pan is golden brown color, just like what you see on the drain plug here
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Opps, I think I'm changing my mind on the cod fish thing. Someone want to help me out here? I believe I meant to refer to castor oil from the castor bean? I think in times of past castor oil was a fairly common lubricant for machinery. As Irecall the copywriten name Castrol might was derived from this nut. Much like the name Cola-Cola was derive from a simalar sounding plant. A part of the secret formula I believe is no longer employed....
By the way OP, where was the dirty plug in the photo from?
By the way OP, where was the dirty plug in the photo from?
freeflight
New member
It is the magnetic drain plug with metal shavings.
... In that case I might reconsider the looks good. IMHO that gives you a good reason to put a new crush washer in there. You might want to pull the drain plug just to see if those shavings are an ongoing issue or just something left over from original break in as some have reported in their justification for an early flush of the gearboxes. And it can't hurt to "flush" it one more time so long as you don't introduce anything worse than you remove, right? The one downside I guess would environmental I suppose.
Aside here. I think differentials on these hold about 3 quarts. I use Valvoline gear lubes (Mobil 1 for engines) out of habit I have used it in gearboxes for over half a century with not a single failure that wasn't inherited. Valvoline full synthetic for LS applications cost about $1.60 a quart as I remember. What kind of gear lube are people using that runs 10 bucks a quart? And why? Rhetorical question not aimed at OP couldn't help it I guess.
Aside here. I think differentials on these hold about 3 quarts. I use Valvoline gear lubes (Mobil 1 for engines) out of habit I have used it in gearboxes for over half a century with not a single failure that wasn't inherited. Valvoline full synthetic for LS applications cost about $1.60 a quart as I remember. What kind of gear lube are people using that runs 10 bucks a quart? And why? Rhetorical question not aimed at OP couldn't help it I guess.
freeflight
New member
Many folks here including me use Mobile 1 75w-90 synthetic gear oil for the job. Around $10-$11 per qt.
AntonioCm1983
New member
You can also lift the truck by the axle so the oil flows tords the 3rd member and then take the plug out and reinstall crush washer and re insert the plug or plugs shouldn't loose much oil if at all
freeflight I would leave the 3 quarts in your differential and just watch for leaks.
I did my 2005 diff at 130,000 miles and it took 20 minutes in my driveway. I used Valvoline 75 90 hi performance gear oil / conventional and I will do it again in another 70,000 miles. :guitar3:
I did my 2005 diff at 130,000 miles and it took 20 minutes in my driveway. I used Valvoline 75 90 hi performance gear oil / conventional and I will do it again in another 70,000 miles. :guitar3:
