rear diff fill plug removal

Supra725

Supra725

New member
Hi everyone..

what's the best way to remove the fill plug on the rear diff?

I tried using manually but no dice.. I haven't got an chance to pick up an pb blaster cause most of the stores are closed..

I have an air ratchet and an impact but would really not go that route.. seen many threads on stripped plug...

and 22mm is the correct size for the socket correct?

thanks.
 
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Should be 24mm or 15/16 is damn close.

And I agree if the impact fits use it! Worse case if you strip the hex, you just weld another nut to it.
 
As someone who just pulled theirs, avoid the impact and wait for the PB Blaster - you can easily strip it with a hand tool and an air ratchet would tear it to shreds. Better to pull it and replace it with an all-pro plug.

I believe the plug is a 24mm.
 
I had to use my 3 foot breaker bar and get some leverage. Hopefully you didn't drain it before you tried to take fill plug off??
 
Use a six-point 24 mm socket. I use an impact socket. A 12-pointer will round off the corners in no time because they have so little height. PB Blaster and and a few hammer blows right on the center of the plug before. Then use anti-seize when you put it back.
 
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I haven't pulled the drain plug yet.. I was looking to refill the diff with some 75w90 due to the leaky passenger seal.. I have all the parts brought for it but just haven't had the time to replace it..

the only socket I had at the moment was an 12 pointer instead of six.. I tried to do it manually but it just won't budge.. how tight do the torque these things do?

plus it was getting an bit cold so I decided to head back in and wait till this weekend to do it.. but man, is sure is an pain in the arse.
 
Forrrrest said:
I had to use my 3 foot breaker bar and get some leverage. Hopefully you didn't drain it before you tried to take fill plug off??
Click to expand...

Same here, sprayed it with wd40, let it soak for about an hour and then hit it with my breaker bar. No problems and the best part, I don't strip it.
 
I agree with all of the above. Get a short 6 point socket and a long cheater bar, use air if you've got it. PB Blast will make it easier for sure. If it strips anyway, weld a nut to it or heat it up a little and hammer a cheap 7/8th socket onto it. Order your new allen-head drain and fill plugs from Lowrange now so you've got 'em when you need 'em, there's no sense leaving those craptastic OEM plugs on there.
 
KidVermicious said:
I agree with all of the above. Get a short 6 point socket and a long cheater bar, use air if you've got it. PB Blast will make it easier for sure. If it strips anyway, weld a nut to it or heat it up a little and hammer a cheap 7/8th socket onto it. Order your new allen-head drain and fill plugs from Lowrange now so you've got 'em when you need 'em, there's no sense leaving those craptastic OEM plugs on there.
Click to expand...

I don't know about that, for a part that is going to be in the spray path of salty roads, I would prefer the external torque feature of the hex head over the internal allen head. Lowrange doesn't specify the type of steel, so I can't assume that theirs corrode less than the OEM ones.

I agree on getting new plugs though. I got new OEM ones because they were quite cheap.
 
pound on the diff case near the plug with a hammer while trying to unscrew it

I've seen this technique do some amazing loosening of impossible stuff
 
nissanh said:
Use a 6 sided box socket. Don't use 12 sided socket as it will tend to strip.
Click to expand...
this is VERY important. a 12 will likely strip.

TheDurk said:
Use a six-point 24 mm socket. I use an impact socket. A 12-pointer will round off the corners in no time because they have so little height. PB Blaster and and a few hammer blows right on the center of the plug before. Then use anti-seize when you put it back.
Click to expand...
also, that will help.


also, ive found if you grind the bevel off the socket, it will help. the nut is so short, there isnt much to grab against, and you lose a little from that bevel. makes it even easier to strip.


with a 6 point, and an impact, we wouldnt even be here talking about it...
 
I have the impact and an air ratchet.. but I don't want to spin it and ******

I ordered an extra fill plug today just in case..

I tried it again with the 12 point but it just slips...

going back to osh or sears for an 6 point later tonight hopefully.. along with some pb blaster..

for the hammering part.. do I take an rubber mallet to it or an metal hammer?

I'm just pissed that is the 4th time the axle seals are leaking.. eerrr
 
Supra725 said:
I have the impact and an air ratchet.. but I don't want to spin it and ******

I ordered an extra fill plug today just in case..

I tried it again with the 12 point but it just slips...

going back to osh or sears for an 6 point later tonight hopefully.. along with some pb blaster..

for the hammering part.. do I take an rubber mallet to it or an metal hammer?

I'm just pissed that is the 4th time the axle seals are leaking.. eerrr
Click to expand...


Have you replaced/modded/cleared the breather? It seems like unless the seals are being replaced incorrectly that there is likely pressure building from a clogged/damaged breather.
 
The seals are leaking for the fourth time? Doesn't that mean you've already had the plug out at least 3 times?

I agree with 6 pt socket and breaker bar. Brace yourself against the tire or axle with your feet and giver all you got!
 
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