rear drive shaft hitting tank skid plate.

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kolelt

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On a good flex, my rear dirfe shaft. The part bolts the drive shaft to the rear axle. Hits the OEM fuel tank skid plate. It grinds intk it. My passanger side rear sway bar link is broken. What solution do I have to avoid hitting the skid plate ?


Didn't take a pic of the drive shaft hitting the skid plate. Sorry.
 
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You can do a few things, none of which are too expensive or difficult. First, fix your rear sway bar link. Second, add some extended rear bump stops if you don't have any. Third, an adjustable panhard bar, or a panhard bar drop will help. Fourth, bust out the BFH and pound the gas tank skid to make clearance.
 
I have the SS extended bump stops, and a panhard drop bracket. If I get a adjustable panhard, do I not need the drop bracket ? What are good sway bark links. I'm running superflex coils in back. With 5100
 
I'm running FJ rear links. They are a little longer and seem to be doing well.
 

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I have the stock panhard bar mounts, but use 2nd gen sway bar links, so it should be pulled to the passenger side away from the tank. My grease zerk keeps getting knocked off from hitting the tank skid plate. Bad place to put a grease fitting. I'm going to put a 6mm bolt in the hole when I'm not greasing it. I think the tank is just too close for the additional suspension movement with a lift and a lot of flex off road.
 
98OzarksRunner said:
I have the stock panhard bar mounts, but use 2nd gen sway bar links, so it should be pulled to the passenger side away from the tank.
Click to expand...

Not sure if i understood you correctly but are you saying when you put the 2nd gen sway bar links on, it helped pull the drive shaft away from the gas tank?
 
fourfive said:
Not sure if i understood you correctly but are you saying when you put the 2nd gen sway bar links on, it helped pull the drive shaft away from the gas tank?
Click to expand...

No. Just noting that I have the longer 2nd gen links (thus less chance of breaking the 3rd gen links and allowing more flex).

I don't have the extended panhard bar bracket, so the added lift pulls the axle toward the passenger side (about 3/4" with 3 1/2" lift). Thus having the panhard bar bracket to move the bar down (or an adjustable bar) would move the axle back toward the driver's side, making it more likely to hit the skid plate. My real point was that the skid plate is just too close to the axle to work on lifted trucks without having the axle hit it. You need to move the tank over, or bang a big dent in the skid plate (and hope the drive shaft doesn't hit the gas tank!). I hope somebody has another solution. I'm tired of replacing grease zerks.
 
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98OzarksRunner said:
No. Just noting that I have the longer 2nd gen links (thus less chance of breaking the 3rd gen links and allowing more flex).

I don't have the extended panhard bar bracket, so the added lift pulls the axle toward the passenger side (about 3/4" with 3 1/2" lift). Thus having the panhard bar bracket to move the bar down (or an adjustable bar) would move the axle back toward the driver's side, making it more likely to hit the skid plate. My real point was that the skid plate is just too close to the axle to work on lifted trucks without having the axle hit it. You need to move the tank over, or bang a big dent in the skid plate (and hope the drive shaft doesn't hit the gas tank!). I hope somebody has another solution. I'm tired of replacing grease zerks.
Click to expand...
Ahhh, I gotcha. Your comment regarding the adjustable bar and drop bracket makes sense. I have both the adjustable bar and drop bracket still sitting in the box b/c I cant decide which way I want to go to avoid hitting the gas skid. So as of now, I'm willing to have my panhard out of spec to decrease the risk of having my driveshaft hitting the gas skid. I am kinda leaning towards installing the bracket on the driver side based on the few members I've seen go this route & it seemed to work but since this method is less common, I decided to hold out.

Any opinions/benefits of having a rear sway bar link that's an inch longer (using the stock 3rd gen front links) vs using the 2nd gen rear sway bar links that's around 2 inches longer?
 
Since I have my panhard drop bracket bolted and welded. Would getting a adjustable panhard help more or would it beat the purpose due to having the drop bracket.
 
kolelt said:
Since I have my panhard drop bracket bolted and welded. Would getting a adjustable panhard help more or would it beat the purpose due to having the drop bracket.
Click to expand...

This is only based on what ive read so no personal experience but having both is supposed to be ideal. I have both just not installed yet. I probably wont put it on until i actually start having issues. The only thing ive noticed running a 3" lift without an adjustable bar or drop is a slight "wag tail" when going over speed bumps that are narrow and tall. Going over the wider speed bumps or any other daily driving conditions i havent noticed an issue. The passenger rear tire sticks out maybe .25-.5 inches.
 
This did NOT happen with my stock skid.
Now with the shrockworks skid I am hitting... ugh... new bumpstop time
 
Bijan said:
This did NOT happen with my stock skid.
Now with the shrockworks skid I am hitting... ugh... new bumpstop time
Click to expand...

Well built skids will have this portion cut out for this reason. Very surprised they dont. I have lowered bump stops and still my stock skid at full flex.

You have your rear sway bar disconnected? Connected there is a lot less chance of hitting the tank.
 
I think [MENTION=116387]Unner[/MENTION] has had the same problem. I have schrockworks skids but haven't put the gas tank skid on yet.

Time to get out the angle grinder.
 
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