rear driveshaft help

[Andy in Pa]

So the drive shaft shop is going to cut off the bad DC and weld on a new and better dc. Balanced and all joints replaced is running about $325.

I am assuming they are going to use a standard 1310 DC? Just make sure they know that the stub on the 1310 DC (the part that slips inside the tube, that is welded to the tube) will not match up to the tubing on your existing rear shaft. Have them take good measurements on the tubing on the rear shaft. It is a weird metric size / wall thickness. You don't want them to cut your rear shaft all apart, only to find out that they can't fit the new DC properly.

 

[baskelh]

I am assuming they are going to use a standard 1310 DC? Just make sure they know that the stub on the 1310 DC (the part that slips inside the tube, that is welded to the tube) will not match up to the tubing on your existing rear shaft. Have them take good measurements on the tubing on the rear shaft. It is a weird metric size / wall thickness. You don't want them to cut your rear shaft all apart, only to find out that they can't fit the new DC properly.

These guys say it's very common for them to get these in. He knew what it was off of before I told him. They seem fairly knowledgeable. I will double check though. Thanks for the advice.

 

[MStudt]

Its closer to $450 for a T4R rear shaft, without shipping. I had them quote me as well. If anyone decides to use Tom Woods or Quigley 4x4 for a new rear drive shaft, be prepared to take accurate length measurements so they know just how long to make it.

Definitely $350 for the rear. I had one priced out less then a month ago. That may have included my discount for being so awesome though.

 

[Doubledew]

What?, What!? Whaaaaat!?? You sure they didn't just do a regular U-joint?

It's a dc joint. I forgot to mention my buddy works and the stealer and got me a deal

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

It's a dc joint. I forgot to mention my buddy works and the stealer and got me a deal

Your buddy got you a new drive shaft installed for 300? Nice!!! I need a buddy like that!!!

 

[Andy in Pa]

Definitely $350 for the rear. I had one priced out less then a month ago. That may have included my discount for being so awesome though.

Yes, all TW drive shafts cost $350. You would have had to source and install the flange adapters yourself. I got the same when I spoke to Troy at TW. When I mentioned about the flange adapters, he estimated approx. $70 to $100 additional (not knowing exactly which flange adapters were needed). I should have my drive shaft back from Quigley 4x4 this week too. When I get the part numbers for the flange adapters, I will call TW with all of the info and have Troy give me a rock-solid quote.

That way this thread will contain at least TWO options for a new rear drive shaft for 3rd Gen T4R's...

 

[Andy in Pa]

I was able to get my custom 1310 rear driveshaft installed today. It works perfectly!!! Installed exactly the same as the factory one, but the flanges on the new shaft were a bit thicker than the ones on the factory shaft. The factory hardware at the axle is M10 with 1.00 pitch threads. At the t-case, its M12 with 1.00 pitch threads. The factory hardware is long enough as long as no washers are used. I used red loctite on all the hardware, so it should stay tight. I tried to find longer replacement hardware, but It is very hard to find M10 and M12 bolts/nuts with 1.00 thread pitch.

The Neapco part numbers for the correct flange adapters are:
N2-83-288-4x at the t-case (ball/socket)
N2-2-799-1 at the diff

The working length of my driveshaft (static drive height) is 45-1/2", and this should be a "close" length for most 4wd 3rd gens with an auto, but I would recommend measuring at 3 and 9 o'clock on the flanges to confirm as different lifts will affect this length.

The driveline shop I used is called Quigley 4x4 (4x4 Vans : Quigley Motor Company, Inc. > Home). They also build custom shafts like Tom Woods, but they happen to be close to where I live, so I could take my factory shaft to them. Quigley also charges $350 for a custom shaft (and this asumes no flange adapters). The flange adapters added another $115 to the price, so it was $465. I originally had Tom Woods quote me a shaft as well, but without knowing exactly which flange adapters were needed, they could only estimate up to $100 additional on top of the $350. If I have a chance, I'll call TW and have them requote it with the Neapco part numbers listed above.

I hope this helps someone else if the ball/socket fails in their driveshaft!!

 

[Scramble]

I was able to get my custom 1310 rear driveshaft installed today. It works perfectly!!! Installed exactly the same as the factory one, but the flanges on the new shaft were a bit thicker than the ones on the factory shaft. The factory hardware at the axle is M10 with 1.00 pitch threads. At the t-case, its M12 with 1.00 pitch threads. The factory hardware is long enough as long as no washers are used. I used red loctite on all the hardware, so it should stay tight. I tried to find longer replacement hardware, but It is very hard to find M10 and M12 bolts/nuts with 1.00 thread pitch.

The Neapco part numbers for the correct flange adapters are:
N2-83-288-4x at the t-case (ball/socket)
N2-2-799-1 at the diff

The working length of my driveshaft (static drive height) is 45-1/2", and this should be a "close" length for most 4wd 3rd gens with an auto, but I would recommend measuring at 3 and 9 o'clock on the flanges to confirm as different lifts will affect this length.

The driveline shop I used is called Quigley 4x4 (4x4 Vans : Quigley Motor Company, Inc. > Home). They also build custom shafts like Tom Woods, but they happen to be close to where I live, so I could take my factory shaft to them. Quigley also charges $350 for a custom shaft (and this asumes no flange adapters). The flange adapters added another $115 to the price, so it was $465. I originally had Tom Woods quote me a shaft as well, but without knowing exactly which flange adapters were needed, they could only estimate up to $100 additional on top of the $350. If I have a chance, I'll call TW and have them requote it with the Neapco part numbers listed above.

I hope this helps someone else if the ball/socket fails in their driveshaft!!

Did you ever call TW's back? I left them a message on Fri. but no one has gotten back to me yet. I have a manual so I might have a different length DS.

When I look at used DS's on E-bay it looks like 6cy, 4cy AT & MT are all the same. I'm not using the e-bay calculator just what the sellers are saying.

 

[Quadsbc]

There are a few used driveshafts on eBay for 150-200 shipped

 

[Scramble]

Would anybody order from here?

1999 Toyota 4Runner 4WD Drive Shaft - Toyota 4Runner 4WD Driveline - Free Shipping

 

[Scramble]

There are a few used driveshafts on eBay for 150-200 shipped

I'm scared to because they're salvage yards & they're saying that they fit multiple models & I don't think that's the case. I'm pretty sure 01 & 02 are different from 96-00 as are 6cyl vs 4cyl and AT vs MT.

This place here makes it look easy & I don't have to wait for someone to build it but I dont know the quality. I really like the idea of a Tom Woods drive shaft.
1999 Toyota 4Runner 4WD Drive Shaft - Toyota 4Runner 4WD Driveline - Free Shipping

 

[Andy in Pa]

Did you ever call TW's back? I left them a message on Fri. but no one has gotten back to me yet. I have a manual so I might have a different length DS.

No, but I can tell you that Quigley built my shaft, and should be able to build you one as long as you give the builder the correct measurements.

 

[Kanoe]

There is some overlap in which models share a shaft. I have a new 98 V6 Auto shaft in my 96 4cyl 5spd. Same part number exactly.

Go to an online parts supplier, such as Toyota of Dallas, and search the part for your specific model to get the part number. Then search around on that specific part number and you should find what models share that part number.

 

[csp]

Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market is a junkyard search engine and it does utilize Hollander interchange information. Hollander is the industry standard of what parts are exact fit on other years/models.

 

[Scramble]

Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market is a junkyard search engine and it does utilize Hollander interchange information. Hollander is the industry standard of what parts are exact fit on other years/models.

There is some overlap in which models share a shaft. I have a new 98 V6 Auto shaft in my 96 4cyl 5spd. Same part number exactly.

Go to an online parts supplier, such as Toyota of Dallas, and search the part for your specific model to get the part number. Then search around on that specific part number and you should find what models share that part number.

Thanks Guys.

I'm in a rush to get my T4R back on the road but I think I want my DC joint rebuildable in the future with common parts. Toyota wants over $800 for a new rear shaft. Who knows the quality of a used shaft...

 

[csp]

Good choice.

I'm on the hunt for a common CV junkyard donor that could be used on a T4R after a rebuild/possible length change (shortened). Just have to take the time to do some research.

I know that there are flanges out there for the 3rd Gen which can convert it to the common Spicer 1310 ujoint. Tom Wood pointed me to one last week.

 

[bufferdan]

Be careful ordering used ones...I tried swapping a 99 Sr5 with a 00 Limited E-lock and the limited was inches shorter

 

[JayRolla]

I just went through all this. I luckily had a 97 show up in our junk yard same model motor, driveline as mine and got a shaft with 147k miles on it for $25. I now have one to ship out to these guys.

High Angle Drivline-Call Jesse at 530-877-2875

They quoted me $179-$250 for the rebuild. They use oem style u joints and they said sometimes they can keep the ball on the double cardan joint so thats why it would be $179 for $250 if it all needs replaced. Not bad really.

 

[csp]

Seems damn high to me! Jesse must think his doesn't stink to charge that much for a CV rebuild.

 

[JayRolla]

Seems damn high to me! Jesse must think his doesn't stink to charge that much for a CV rebuild.

Every shop locally told me $150+ for rebuild with chinese crap parts. The OEM style u joints are $26-$33 each so thats almost $100 in just parts there and that would make it about $75 labor. But another $100 for the ball and seal is a little pricey. But no one else does it. Find me an oem quality centering ball for the CV and I will do it my self!! All I can find is the crap Rockauto.