rear driveshaft help
- Thread starter baskelh
- Start date
Andy in Pa
New member
Cool, Is he putting the correct flange adapters on it so you can just bolt it in once you get it? If it helps, I called out the correct flange adapters for the T4R earlier in this thread.
Scramble
New member
I hope so! LOL Should be the F1 or F2 flange. I'll look back.
Your mechanic is also charging book hours at shop rates. Makes me glad that I don't have to rely on a mechanic.
I worked for a driveshaft shop for a few years and I can tell you that there is some padding in High Angle's price for their name. A CV rebuild isn't that hard, especially if you do it day in and day out.
Tom does include the correct flanges with his 1310 driveshafts. It's a complete setup that he sells.
Scramble
New member
A3s-ta4-t2
type a, double cardan, cv drive shaft
3" tube-standard length spline w/ dust cap
toyota truck 4thd design cv flange for 1310 series
u-joint @ transfer case
a=1.812" b=3.69" c1=2.6" c2=2.6" d=1.0625" e=3.2188" 10 mm
holes
toyota truck 2nd design flange for 1310 series u-joint
@ differential
a=1.812" b=3.35" c1=2.375" c2=2.375" d=1.0625" e=3.2188" 10 mm
holes
finished length running position
face of flange to face of flange= 48.625"
1 429.00
processing and packaging fee $10.00 per package. 1 10.00
type a, double cardan, cv drive shaft
3" tube-standard length spline w/ dust cap
toyota truck 4thd design cv flange for 1310 series
u-joint @ transfer case
a=1.812" b=3.69" c1=2.6" c2=2.6" d=1.0625" e=3.2188" 10 mm
holes
toyota truck 2nd design flange for 1310 series u-joint
@ differential
a=1.812" b=3.35" c1=2.375" c2=2.375" d=1.0625" e=3.2188" 10 mm
holes
finished length running position
face of flange to face of flange= 48.625"
1 429.00
processing and packaging fee $10.00 per package. 1 10.00
JayRolla
New member
Yes you are correct. Shops due charge full labor rates, its how they make money and he is padding the price. But no one else does a good oem part rebuild. Every shop ive asked said they use chinese crap. Unless you go complete custom. Every local driveshaft shop has stated $150 for crap parts.
For what its worth local shops have quoted me $45 for labor if I supply the parts. So they are not really padding anything there.
Scramble
New member
3" Might be too big for some......
I wanted to update this thread because I do get PM'd questions about Tom Woods driveshafts from time to time.
I went with the 3" shaft and 1310 u-Joints because bigger is better right? Plus I knew I'd be getting a S/C in the future & wanted to beef up the drive train. The 3" DS was fine on road & not lifted. The stock shaft is 2.5". After the suspension lift the DS started hitting the stock gas tank skid when wheeling & on sharp right turns up driveways & curbs into parking lots etc. I took an angle grinder & cut away about a 7"W X 4"H piece of the skid. I'm good now but you might want to stay with the stock size 2.5" shaft or you might have to modify your gas tank skid.
I wanted to update this thread because I do get PM'd questions about Tom Woods driveshafts from time to time.
I went with the 3" shaft and 1310 u-Joints because bigger is better right? Plus I knew I'd be getting a S/C in the future & wanted to beef up the drive train. The 3" DS was fine on road & not lifted. The stock shaft is 2.5". After the suspension lift the DS started hitting the stock gas tank skid when wheeling & on sharp right turns up driveways & curbs into parking lots etc. I took an angle grinder & cut away about a 7"W X 4"H piece of the skid. I'm good now but you might want to stay with the stock size 2.5" shaft or you might have to modify your gas tank skid.
Last edited:
JayRolla
New member
Thanks for the heads up. My stocker will rub when flexing out and sometimes will hit when turning or going up curbs when I'm missing my rear sway bar. I could only imagine larger shaft would make it way worse.
Sorry to revive an old thread. But were you able to re-use your factory hardware? My t-case side flange was a little thicker, but I was still able to re-use the washers. At the diff side, the TW flange is almost twice as thick. So I am running into the same situation as the person who posted earlier that the bolt is too short to use the factory lock washer.
Scramble
New member
i used Grade 8 from the hardware store. Any old bolts are usually toast from rust on my rig.
4runsport
New member
I have a squeak/clicking in reverse when pushing on the gas. Everyone I spoke to says it's definitely a u-joint. I took the driveshaft down last night and the D.C. moves freely in one direction but not the other. I took it to my local axel shop and they are going to take a look at it tomorrow. The shop guy said that if it is bound, it's just as expensive to rebuild it as it is to buy a rebuild. I have looked around and cannot find a rebuilt or reman driveshaft with the D.C. Joint on it. Would you all trust buying a used one that I can physically verify the D.C. Joint moves freely? i cannot afford one of those fabricated ones listed above.
