rear drum brake problem help!

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dominopizza

New member
I have a 2000 4runner. I've recently replaced right rear wheel bearing, both drums, brake shoes, and cylinders. because I've noticed oil was leaking on to my right tire and drum brake. It's been a month since the repair but oil is still leaking and there's play in the wheel. What else can be the problem?

I couldn't figure it out so I went to local Mechanic and he said he has to replace the whole rear axle.

Also, I've replaced all my front suspension (upper/lower ball joints, inner/outer tie rods, sway bar, brake pads, rotors). But when I try to stop, brake is not smooth but feels like its dragging.

I think its related problem but not sure. Help!!!
 
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dominopizza said:
I have a 2000 4runner. I've recently replaced right rear wheel bearing, both drums, brake shoes, and cylinders. because I've noticed oil was leaking on to my right tire and drum brake. It's been a month since the repair but oil is still leaking and there's play in the wheel. What else can be the problem?

I couldn't figure it out so I went to local Mechanic and he said he has to replace the whole rear axle.

Also, I've replaced all my front suspension (upper/lower ball joints, inner/outer tie rods, sway bar, brake pads, rotors). But when I try to stop, brake is not smooth but feels like its dragging.

I think its related problem but not sure. Help!!!
Click to expand...

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...e-information-replacement-thread-3rd-gen.html

good luck.
 
Follow that guide listed in s20004runner's reply.

You have a blown rear axle seal. You shouldn't have to replace the axle. Just follow the guide. :)
 
Have your bearing done while you have the axle out. It will save you headache later. Your bearing is already contaminated with gear oil.
 
I've already replaced the bearing but it's still leaking.


and


is this problem related to my brake vibration? I don't know what to do next since i've replaced all the front and rear brake assembly.
 
The problem with the rear seals is not the difficulty of the job but the accuracy of the work and the quality of the parts. Use oem parts and the tolerances of the seal and retainer placement must be correct. If you are not going to do research and do it yourself, then bring it to someone who has done lots of 4runners and early tacomas. They will know the pitfalls and tricks and do it right Your vibration problem sounds like the rotors. Once again use quality parts for the rotors or if you are really hard on your brakes, upgrade to tundra brakes
 
What do you mean when you say the wheel has play? How did you determine this?

Wheel bearings will not stop a leak. Like said above... There are seals in the axle. They aren't too bad to replace with a little research.

It's hard to tell what you actually need without any pictures.... The race can be destroyed.. Etc


The braking issue can be related to the oil leaking on the drums. This will cause a jerking motion. The oil causes the brakes to slip and catch on the dry areas...


Save a ton of money and do some reading... Call your buddies and figure it out.. Pretty simple stuff but most get intimidated for some reason....
 
dominopizza said:
I have a 2000 4runner. I've recently replaced right rear wheel bearing, both drums, brake shoes, and cylinders. because I've noticed oil was leaking on to my right tire and drum brake. It's been a month since the repair but oil is still leaking and there's play in the wheel. What else can be the problem?

I couldn't figure it out so I went to local Mechanic and he said he has to replace the whole rear axle.

Also, I've replaced all my front suspension (upper/lower ball joints, inner/outer tie rods, sway bar, brake pads, rotors). But when I try to stop, brake is not smooth but feels like its dragging.

I think its related problem but not sure. Help!!!
Click to expand...

So let me get this straight...you replaced the bearing but not the inner seal?
 
IS the wheel play is up-down (as in 6-12 O clock) or in-out of the axle housing. If the free play is up-down, then you have bad bearings.
 
nissanh said:
IS the wheel play is up-down (as in 6-12 O clock) or in-out of the axle housing. If the free play is up-down, then you have bad bearings.
Click to expand...
in/out could also be a wheel bearing. there shouldn't really be any movement with our bearing set up.

on a c-clip rear end, in/out movement is normal, but ours has the bearing pressed onto the axle, and into the backing plate, then bolted to the housing. nothing should move.
 
nevada said:
in/out could also be a wheel bearing. there shouldn't really be any movement with our bearing set up.

on a c-clip rear end, in/out movement is normal, but ours has the bearing pressed onto the axle, and into the backing plate, then bolted to the housing. nothing should move.
Click to expand...

True. Any slack is not good. Well, *incredibly* tiny amounts are probably benign.

And as already mentioned, there are seals on the bearing, but they're not to keep oil in the axle, they just keep grease in the bearing. The wheel bearings are not oiled by the gear oil in the axle, that's entirely for the differential. There is a seal pressed into the axle housing which seals against the axle shaft and keeps the oil in the axle housing, away from the bearing. And the ABS sensor, and the brakes.

Just for fun, Toyota did NOT use spacers between the 3 different things which need to be pressed onto an axle shaft when assembling it (after replacing a bearing). The bearing goes on first. Then the ABS sensor ring - which needs a small gap between it and the bearing. Then the smooth steel seal ring, that the oil seal rides against. This also needs a small gap between it and the ABS sensor ring.

Most manufacturers, and thus most machine shops, will generally press everything down until it touches. It's just how it is 'normally' done. If you do that on a 4Runner rear axle, the seal ring will get pressed so far that it won't be on the seal when it is all installed, the seal will be hanging out 1/8" from the smaller axle shaft and letting oil slosh out any time it feels like.
 
bearing and seals were replaced by mechanic with oem parts.

but its still leaking so i don't know he did the right job or not but i'll try to post some pictures.
 
dominopizza said:
bearing and seals were replaced by mechanic with oem parts.

but its still leaking so i don't know he did the right job or not but i'll try to post some pictures.
Click to expand...

Also, if the axle breather is stuck shut (rust and/or crud) it will leak oil. They're just lightly spring loaded. As the diff warms up, the air in it expands, and if it can't get out the breather, it's going to puff out past the seals, regardless of how good the seals are. At around 190K miles mine was lightly leaking on the right wheel, all I did was clean and free up the breather and brakleen the drum and shoes, and it's been dry for the last 12K miles.
 
dominopizza said:
bearing and seals were replaced by mechanic with oem parts.

but its still leaking so i don't know he did the right job or not but i'll try to post some pictures.
Click to expand...

JohnMc is correct, and I would add (as shown in the axle seal ultimate guide) that it is very easy to press the seal sleeve past alignment. The sleeve and the reluctor ring must not be pressed down all the way or the seal will not mate up to the sleeve.
 
There should be about 5mm of exposed shiny axle above the inner retainer ring. Then do the grease test. I also used DrCoffee's method and turned the ring around to allow for more potential surface contact between the ring and the seal.
 
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