Rear end replacement, ballpark price?

[NJDSM]

Hey guys,

Have 2 questions, anyone with experience if you'd chime in that would be great...

I had someone hit my driver side rear wheel, and bend it in about 45* literally bent at the point right behind the drum. Nothing else seems damaged, and the accident wasn't too bad (IMO). Anticipating getting the work done while I'm away for work until next Tuesday.

Never had any problems with my current rear end, so I assume I can sell the guts when I am all done, and the rest for parts etc.

98 5speed 4wd no locker

-How much am I looking at to replace (aka have someone local do it) the entire rear trans axle? I found one locally for $950 with 91k (I believe I have 4:10 gears?)

I would like to have them do wheel bearings and rebuild the drums if they need, but mainly for peace of mind.

Just looking at what I am expecting in hours/labor, and anything I can expect to recoup from the rear. :rockon::rockon::rockon:

 

[4-Ripcord]

An unlocked axle should not be more than $500-$600+ install

 

[Nelsonmd]

An unlocked axle should not be more than $500-$600+ install

Agreed. The install isn't actually that much work, especially if you have a full replacement handy, but I bet they will charge alot for it. If you're handy, do it yourself. I replaced mine myself , it wasn't that bad.

 

[4-Ripcord]

It is very easy

 

[NJDSM]

An unlocked axle should not be more than $500-$600+ install

Damn that's significantly less than anyone around here, IDK why they're so expensive.

Seems very straight forward, I just lack air tools at my garage...I'm trying to get a mechanic friend to help, but is there a write up anywhere so once I get the truck in the garage I can get as much done as possible...

I know its all in your face under there, but you know.

Anyone selling one on here? haha

 

[NJDSM]

Agreed. The install isn't actually that much work, especially if you have a full replacement handy, but I bet they will charge alot for it. If you're handy, do it yourself. I replaced mine myself , it wasn't that bad.

It is very easy

I found some on ebay for ~500 like you guys are saying all with 100-150k which im comfortable with..

just want to make sure I have 4:10 ratio in the rear?

All the other options would say yes, the listing says:

98 4wd no locker w/ 16" wheels (which all I have) w/ 4:10 gears.

thanks guys

 

[Doc2012]

I have a housing that I'll sell you for way less than that.

All you'd have to do is put in the rear diff, axles, and that jazz.

Still has the control arms on it too.....


PM me if interested.

 

[Nelsonmd]

I found some on ebay for ~500 like you guys are saying all with 100-150k which im comfortable with..

just want to make sure I have 4:10 ratio in the rear?

All the other options would say yes, the listing says:

98 4wd no locker w/ 16" wheels (which all I have) w/ 4:10 gears.

thanks guys

So do you KNOW you have 4.10 already? Search here for the spin test if you haven't verified already and verify before you buy anything. I think you should call all the salvage yards around you and troll the forums for guys selling an axle or just housing. If you just swap out the housing and axles, not the diff, then you don't have to worry about the gear ratio, you can just reuse your diff.

As far as walkthrough, There isn't really too much to write-up other than a checklist of all the steps, nothing too tricky. Just make a checklist of everything you unbolt to make sure you get it all back together correctly. The FSM has exploded views of it all with the torques listed, very convenient.

I think the pitfalls to getting this done in one sitting are largely related to how much rust and corrosion you have, which would require you to replace bolts or nuts, or other small parts. If the whole thing is clean, then you should be in good shape. Also just be sure that you know EVERY part that is damaged. You took alot of force, so you could have some other damage that isn't obvious. If you are reusing your diff, be sure you have a tube of new sealant, and you might consider new lock washers for the diff studs. I like to buy new bolts and nuts if they aren't too expensive, spending $30-40 for all new hardware is not that big a cost in the long run, but then again, I have alot of rust problems, so new bolts are alot nicer than what is on there now.

You don't need air tools by any stretch, but they are nice if you have alot of corrosion. I did it without air. You should get a torque wrench if you don't have it already have one. And use loctite.

 

[rjaudi]

I just did a rear end since mine rusted out. The rear axles go much cheaper down south of DC from what I saw on car-part. I got lucky and got my elocked rear axle for 350. I will tell you that the bearing replacement will be expensive. Toyota charged me 250 just for labor and I believe I spent another 200 on parts and I saved about 100 because I used Koyo bearings instead of actual Toyota bearings. The job is not tough, I did it in my garage with little help. I used a furniture dolly to move the axle around my garage. You are going to need a decent torque wrench and make sure you know how to bleed brakes.

 

[fourwd1]

If you want to know the stock gear ratio for your truck, look for the axle code at the bottom of the VIN plate. A/TM where A is the axle code (gear ratio) and TM is the transmission.
It'll be something like G292. Post the code and someone will decode it for you.

 

[NJDSM]

So do you KNOW you have 4.10 already? Search here for the spin test if you haven't verified already and verify before you buy anything. I think you should call all the salvage yards around you and troll the forums for guys selling an axle or just housing. If you just swap out the housing and axles, not the diff, then you don't have to worry about the gear ratio, you can just reuse your diff.

As far as walkthrough, There isn't really too much to write-up other than a checklist of all the steps, nothing too tricky. Just make a checklist of everything you unbolt to make sure you get it all back together correctly. The FSM has exploded views of it all with the torques listed, very convenient.

I think the pitfalls to getting this done in one sitting are largely related to how much rust and corrosion you have, which would require you to replace bolts or nuts, or other small parts. If the whole thing is clean, then you should be in good shape. Also just be sure that you know EVERY part that is damaged. You took alot of force, so you could have some other damage that isn't obvious. If you are reusing your diff, be sure you have a tube of new sealant, and you might consider new lock washers for the diff studs. I like to buy new bolts and nuts if they aren't too expensive, spending $30-40 for all new hardware is not that big a cost in the long run, but then again, I have alot of rust problems, so new bolts are alot nicer than what is on there now.

You don't need air tools by any stretch, but they are nice if you have alot of corrosion. I did it without air. You should get a torque wrench if you don't have it already have one. And use loctite.

Borrowing a nice snap on torque wrench and 1/2" snap on electric impact. I should have enough tools to get started on it. They're dropping the truck off tomorrow at my cousins house since he has space and a large driveway to work on the truck in. Waiting on call backs from 2 yards today locally, otherwise im biting bulled and buying one online this weekend.

Sadly I'm in Florida for work until next Tuesday (well, sadly relative to not having a car to return to LOL weather is great)

If you want to know the stock gear ratio for your truck, look for the axle code at the bottom of the VIN plate. A/TM where A is the axle code (gear ratio) and TM is the transmission.
It'll be something like G292. Post the code and someone will decode it for you.

I'll post up soon as I get to the truck, just talking it out gives me some more confidence.

I rarely have worked on much anything other than my Neon (I know, but its pretty fast and all I've messed around with aside from 2 stroke bikes) and the reason I got the T4r is because I shouldnt have to work on it, but you know how it goes with wanting just a little bigger tire etc etc haha

 

[Doc2012]

If you have 4.10s in the truck, the gear code will be A03A.

A=7.5" Ring Gear
03= 4.10 Gear
A=2 pinion open

First digit:
A = 7.5" ring gear
B = 8" ring gear

Next two digits:
01 = 3:42
02 = 3:58
03 = 4:10
04 = 4:56
05 = 3:15
06 = 3:91
07 = 4.30

Last digit:
A = 2 Pinion, Open
B = 4 Pinion, Open
C = 2 Pinion OEM Limited Slip

Here's a Pic

 

[NJDSM]

If you have 4.10s in the truck, the gear code will be A03A.

A=7.5" Ring Gear
03= 4.10 Gear
A=2 pinion open

First digit:
A = 7.5" ring gear
B = 8" ring gear

Next two digits:
01 = 3:42
02 = 3:58
03 = 4:10
04 = 4:56
05 = 3:15
06 = 3:91
07 = 4.30

Last digit:
A = 2 Pinion, Open
B = 4 Pinion, Open
C = 2 Pinion OEM Limited Slip

Here's a Pic

wow thank you sir! the truck should get arrive today, I'm going to ask someone to check for me. Appreciate it!

 

[NJDSM]

just want to verify its in the door jamb? sorry for the dummy question, but Im explaining via phone to someone not very technical and with 0 knowledge of the truck. I asked to look in door jambs and she said she saw nothing :help:

 

[Nelsonmd]

If you have 4.10s in the truck, the gear code will be A03A.

A=7.5" Ring Gear
03= 4.10 Gear
A=2 pinion open

First digit:
A = 7.5" ring gear
B = 8" ring gear

Next two digits:
01 = 3:42
02 = 3:58
03 = 4:10
04 = 4:56
05 = 3:15
06 = 3:91
07 = 4.30

Last digit:
A = 2 Pinion, Open
B = 4 Pinion, Open
C = 2 Pinion OEM Limited Slip

Here's a Pic

Nope, this is wrong. The guides and tables aren't accurate. For example, my axle code is A04A, but I have a 4.3 gear ratio. You need to do the spin test, don't believe any guides online.

The best guideline for this is that you have a 4.10 unless you have an automatic e-locker, then you have 4.30. The 4.56 I think was an older carry-over and was very rare in the 3rd gen.