Rear hatch and window problems

[zonianbrat]

Before I begin I will say that I have searched extensively. Today when I went to put some stuff in the back of the t4r the hatch would not open. No click or anything. I thought maybe I needed to normalize the window or something kind of like when you unhook the battery. Well the window does not work nor does the wiper or defroster. After searching most of the night and going out and trying all the ideas people posted up it still will not open. The window does not even work from the switch inside. When I try to roll down the window with the key fob I get a single beep like when I lock the doors. I also tried sticking the key in the back hatch and again nothing. I disconnected the battery and left it off for 10-20 minutes twice. This sucks I have move a lot of stuff soon and was counting on the 4 runner for help. Please help me get this resolved. I'm so tired of putting this thing in the shop and having to spend money on it. Seems like about every two months something goes wrong with it. We have had our 3rd gen for 4 years and this 4th gen for less than one and I have already had to spend more money than I have had to on the 3rd gen. Boo

 

[gshadow325]

i recently went into my rear hatch to install my backup camera and more aux lighting on tailgate.

what i found that might interest you. my switch that clipped onto the lock mech broke off. if it is turned a little when it broke. the door will not unlock or lock. best thing to do is get into the tailgate and take it apart to look at it and see what is up.

 

[Adventure Copan]

My mom had this problem with her '06 and the door panel had to be removed from inside with the door closed since it wouldn't open and a wire had come loose during a recent rear window replacement. Hope you figure it out!

-Daniel Kent

 

[zonianbrat]

Thanks guys I will be taking off the panel probably tonight at work. I'm hoping it is a loose wire although I havent done anything extreme to pop a wire. Fingers crossed cause I am so tired of dealing with problems on this t4r.

 

[Stuck CAPS]

I had this problem a while ago after painting the trim piece with the emblem on it. I had knocked a wire on the gate ECU loose, and that fixed it. Try opening the gate manually, to make sure it's not the mechanism, but a loose wire or dead motor. The lever is on the left side of the white motor housing, and it's the shorter lever. Push it up, then push the gate out. Then try disconnecting and reconnecting all wires. If all else fails, buy a new motor for it (roughly 200 dollars.)

 

[zonianbrat]

I had this problem a while ago after painting the trim piece with the emblem on it. I had knocked a wire on the gate ECU loose, and that fixed it. Try opening the gate manually, to make sure it's not the mechanism, but a loose wire or dead motor. The lever is on the left side of the white motor housing, and it's the shorter lever. Push it up, then push the gate out. Then try disconnecting and reconnecting all wires. If all else fails, buy a new motor for it (roughly 200 dollars.)

Thanks I'm about to pull the panel off and try just that. Really really hoping that it is just a loose wire.:shrug:

 

[sr5hi]

Before you start taking things apart, did you check for a blown fuse?

 

[zonianbrat]

Yeah I checked fuses and could not find any blown.

 

[sr5hi]

Did you do a visual check on the fuse, or use a test light or multi meter? Sometimes a visual inspection does not show a defective fuse. As for the tailgate window, is the "Master Window Lockout Switch" on your drivers door engaged by mistake?

 

[zonianbrat]

Window lockout switch is not engaged. Nothing works in the back still. I took the rear panel off did not find anything disconnected. I did find a small gray wire that was broken half way and corroded. So I re-spliced the wire but it was corroded and rusty. It was a quick fix since I was at work but it still did not work. I'm going to try splicing a good piece of wire in and see if that is the problem. If not I will be testing continuity in the other wires. If that doesnt work I guess I have to buy a new ecu. So if anyone knows where I can get an ecu used for cheap I would appreciate it cause I'm getting tired of throwing money at this girl. She is becoming a high maintenance pig.

 

[zonianbrat]

Do any of you guys think a battery that is going bad could cause this issue? I still have the original panasonic battery. I know it is old but it still starts and runs everything fine with the exception of the rear that is. I put a light to all the fuses and they checked out fine. Trying to narrow this down. I live in a small town and the guys at the local Napa recognize me and my t4r now. They all drive Chevy's and it is getting hard to argue with them that my toyota isnt a POS when I have to go in their so much. Good thing I just put on new wheels!

 

[zonianbrat]

Nevermind that! I just put a new battery in it since I knew I was going to have to replace it before too long anyway. Guess the only think it could be now is a broken wire somewhere where I cant see or the ecu for the back hatch...ridiculous.

 

[Adventure Copan]

I'm stumped...bad hatch locking mech? Ask the local Yota dealership maybe.

-Daniel Kent

 

[BlackWorksInc]

Do you have a DVOM at least? Check powers & grounds from the fuse to the Rear Hatch ECU wiring. I would not only check for continuity but for voltage on the wires going in and out of the ECU to qualify if it is indeed functioning or failed. You'll need to bust out a wiring diagram for this (I believe there are factory .pdfs in one of the Stickies in the 4th gen section,) and try to track down the issue.

The corrosion on that wire makes me a little curious, there could be a combination of work hardening/corrosion that has severed and/or increased resistance in the wiring harness to the ECU.

First thing is first, start from your power source and qualify the wiring to the ECU, then test the inputs and outputs to the ECU for proper function. Its a bit of work, but this is how I would do this if you brought the vehicle to me for the same reason.

 

[zonianbrat]

I have a buddy who is an electrician and he will be coming over to with his voltmeter. I am not too savvy when it comes to testing different voltages and resistence drops etc. That is the next step. Thanks for chiming in BlackWorks. I will try to find the schmematic on here first.

 

[J_MaC]

I'm having, what appears to be, a similar problem. Did this ever get resolved? After doing a lot of searching on "Hatch" this seams to resemble my problem the closest. I realize that this thread is old...