Rear Hatch Issues

mmataya

New member
Last week my rear hatch wouldn't open on my 2005 Limited 4Runner. No motor noise at all when trying to open from the outside. Rear windows won't operate either along with rear wiper and rear defrost. Looked at several threads online and found several that stated if all 4 items are happening, its most likely a back ECU issue. I found a TSB related to this issue and faulty ECUs that my year and VIN fell into. I verified that I had power on the 3 leads going into the smaller ECU connector and good continuity on the ground wire on that connector. With this all in mind, there were a couple threads pointing the problem to be with the back ECU. I purchased one and replaced it and no change. Everything still didn't work. I unplugged the battery for 10 minutes and normalized the windows. Still no activity from the rear window, rear wiper, rear defrost, and rear door lock. I can open the door by moving the lever for the latch inside of the door panel and the door opens easily so nothing feels gummed up. When I close the door, I don't hear the motor drawing the door closed. Any ideas as to what may be wrong. It is now at the dealer and I have given them permission to work on it for up to 2 hours to see if they can determine with is wrong. Is this something they can diagnose by hooking it up to their diagnostic equipment? They mentioned that I could have a "ground short" and that it may be burning up the back ECUs. I also read that some people were told their vehicles were in "sleep mode" and the dealership had to "wake them up" but not sure what that actually means. Any advice would be appreciated. :thumb3:
 
Last edited:
Register to hide this ad
I heard back from the dealership. They said the rear window motor has failed and it put the system in Fail Safe Mode and said that is why the rear hatch won't open. They did say they need to reset something after the motor is replaced but I think I read on here that it you can replace the motor yourself and just unplug the battery to relearn the new motor and get it out of the fail safe mode. Is this correct? Don't want to pay $700 for them to replace my motor if I can do it for the cost of the motor.
 
I heard back from the dealership. They said the rear window motor has failed and it put the system in Fail Safe Mode and said that is why the rear hatch won't open. They did say they need to reset something after the motor is replaced but I think I read on here that it you can replace the motor yourself and just unplug the battery to relearn the new motor and get it out of the fail safe mode. Is this correct? Don't want to pay $700 for them to replace my motor if I can do it for the cost of the motor.

It’s pretty straight forward job,you can pull ECU-B fuse under the hood for a minute and it should reset the tailgate ECU.

Tailgate lock problem don’t normally effect the other tailgate functions so there might be more than 1 issue going on here.
 
rear tailgate on my 2012 won't open, changed the push button, actuator, reset the ecu fuse, unplugged the harness's and plugged back in, disconnected battery for over an hour. Everything else in the back works with no issues. Anyone have any ideas?
 
Living on Kauai we deal with rust alot. My rear door was doing the same thing and I had bought the vehicle knowing the rear window bracket had rusted off causing the glass to "come off track". If the glass does this the rear door will not open. I hope they didnt screw you but i would take off the the panel on the back and take a look. Should be fairly clear.
 
Super easy to fix. Trust me if this old gal can figure it out based off of reading threads on this forum and a couple of YouTube video's ANYONE can do it.

Do the research. Buy the motor and get to it. There is a funny reset process once you install the new motor but that is in a thread somewhere.
090617e5ae473a6c90f91b9cd5172c11.jpg


Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
 
Main questions is, do I need to remove the entire door panel or can I just pop off the trim by the switch? Any other insight would be helpful. I know it's easy to take the door panel off but obviously would be much easier if I didn't have to, and I don't want to take it off if it's not even going to give me access to replace the switch.

There is a surprising lack of info on how to do this. Seems like every other little issue I have with my 4th gen, multiple people have made YouTube videos on exactly how to fix.https://discord.software/ fetlife vshare
 
Last edited:
rear tailgate on my 2012 won't open, changed the push button, actuator, reset the ecu fuse, unplugged the harness's and plugged back in, disconnected battery for over an hour. Everything else in the back works with no issues. Anyone have any ideas?

Any luck with this problem? I just tried a new actuator and still no luck. Wondering if a reset is needed just for the actuator. Everything else is also working on mine (window, wiper, lights, etc.) Planning on trying a new switch next I guess if there are no tricks with resets I'm missing.
 
Any luck with this problem? I just tried a new actuator and still no luck. Wondering if a reset is needed just for the actuator. Everything else is also working on mine (window, wiper, lights, etc.) Planning on trying a new switch next I guess if there are no tricks with resets I'm missing.

My new actuator works, I did need to unplug the harnesses from the ECU to reset the new part. Glad that's over!! However, now my key will not turn to the left in the liftgate!? It still turns right and will raise the window and lock doors. Just won't roll down. Is this a possible security feature I tripped when I reset the ECU?
 

Members online

No members online now.

Forum statistics

Threads
278,309
Messages
3,554,068
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top