IBallEngineer
New member
In fairness, he didn't say so in his quote of my post, he did in a previous post. Still I should have asked what year!
:dammit:
Rear hatch/wiper/window fuse location????
- Thread starter cstmg8
- Start date
In fairness, he didn't say so in his quote of my post, he did in a previous post. Still I should have asked what year!
:dammit:
R
RevToyota
Guest
I know its a very old post. Wasnt sure if you were even operating here anymore. Its great to see you ate.
But im having an issue getting my back window to roll up. And id like to avoid paying someone a ton of money if i can. I was wondering if you had any suggestions? Or maybe a picture of the relay itself so i know exactly what to switch out.
R
RevToyota
Guest
And correct i have a 97. Sorry i did not state as much.
But my window is down and will not roll up. Sounds like somonething is firing when i press the switch because i can hear a click. But i canr seem to get the window up. So i was hoping to replave the relay if thats what is wrong with it.
IBallEngineer
New member
Well the relay is not just for the window, it also is involved in the wiper motor operation. I don't have that manual but I'll go out on a limb and say it is in the rear door. I do know it has an 18pin connector, not necessarily that many wires though, I counted 15 in the diagram El Durko(@TheDurk) posted. You can look at that EWD he posted and you can tell what the system is supposed to do and you can test it yourself with a multimeter or test light. At the very least you can probably figure out how to get the window up. I could help you go through the steps of testing but since I'm rarely in front of my PC these days it could take a few weeks or more. I'm game if you need the help.
R
RevToyota
Guest
Yes I am still dealing with it... uhhg and it rains alot in vermont.. so I have replaced the switch. The Male connector to switch. The motor. The control box in rear. NOTHING. The only thing left is to find this relay none can give me an exact location on and change that....
TheDurk
Elite Member
I am pretty sure what you call the 'Control Box' IS the relay. It is really a mini ECU. The location diagram is shown on p. 33 of the attached (P12). You are the classic example of parts swapper who has not analyzed the problem.
Key is to start by hot wiring the motor and see if it works to raise the window. Apply 12V+ to the red wire on Pin 5 and ground to the green wire on Pin 15 of the relay plug.. Do this with the relay unplugged. What we do next depends on the result of this.
Similar Issue, Came here via Search
Hey all, first post on the forum. Joined up to do research on a tailgate window / rear wiper problem I'm having, and this thread is the closest I've found to my specific issues. Here goes:
1998 Limited, approx 210k miles, everything works great, love this thing. Out of the blue about 3 weeks ago my rear window stopped working (with the console switch and with the key in the rear lock), and my rear wiper stopped working. This coincided with a parasitic battery drain that was causing me to have to jump start every morning and every day after work. Rear defrost works and the dash light comes on. License plate lights work. Rear washer liquid / pump works. The last time the window worked I used the key in the lock to roll it down, load up, and roll it back up. I did notice the tumbler was sorta "grindy" and grimey, hard to turn and made some noise. Seemed typical for Upstate NY overuse of winter road salt, which gets everywhere.
In my research and experimenting, I found that the console switch produced a "click" from the back when trying to lower the window. This has led me to assume that the battery drain was possibly coming from the relay / ECU in the tailgate thinking that the switch is constantly calling for the window to roll up. Maybe? So I found a cheap used "tested and working" ECU on eBay to swap out with mine. Same issue, same click, not the fix I was hoping for. I also took a look at the wires in the loom above the door hinge, as well as most of the wires inside the tailgate panel, looking for breaks and found none. And yes, the children's window lock isn't engaged, all the other windows roll up and down just fine. I've fiddled with the rear wiper position by hand and haven't had any luck with that either.
So, here I am. Snow and ice on the rear window making it had to drive without that wiper. I've left the ECU unplugged for now and that has stopped the battery drain. I'm thinking the electronic sensor / plug / wire thing around the rear lock tumbler might be the culprit? Could it be the ECU and my used replacement just happens to be broken too? I'm terrible with electronics (give me a vacuum diagram and I'm in heaven...) and need to borrow some testing equipment to get started, but I'm willing to put in the work to figure this out. I'm gathering I'll need to bypass the ECU to make sure the window motor still functions? Seems to be a common place to start with suggestions around this issue.
Anyway, sorry to jack the thread, but figured this community didn't need ANOTHER fresh rear window problems thread. Thanks for any and all info and help!!!
Hey all, first post on the forum. Joined up to do research on a tailgate window / rear wiper problem I'm having, and this thread is the closest I've found to my specific issues. Here goes:
1998 Limited, approx 210k miles, everything works great, love this thing. Out of the blue about 3 weeks ago my rear window stopped working (with the console switch and with the key in the rear lock), and my rear wiper stopped working. This coincided with a parasitic battery drain that was causing me to have to jump start every morning and every day after work. Rear defrost works and the dash light comes on. License plate lights work. Rear washer liquid / pump works. The last time the window worked I used the key in the lock to roll it down, load up, and roll it back up. I did notice the tumbler was sorta "grindy" and grimey, hard to turn and made some noise. Seemed typical for Upstate NY overuse of winter road salt, which gets everywhere.
In my research and experimenting, I found that the console switch produced a "click" from the back when trying to lower the window. This has led me to assume that the battery drain was possibly coming from the relay / ECU in the tailgate thinking that the switch is constantly calling for the window to roll up. Maybe? So I found a cheap used "tested and working" ECU on eBay to swap out with mine. Same issue, same click, not the fix I was hoping for. I also took a look at the wires in the loom above the door hinge, as well as most of the wires inside the tailgate panel, looking for breaks and found none. And yes, the children's window lock isn't engaged, all the other windows roll up and down just fine. I've fiddled with the rear wiper position by hand and haven't had any luck with that either.
So, here I am. Snow and ice on the rear window making it had to drive without that wiper. I've left the ECU unplugged for now and that has stopped the battery drain. I'm thinking the electronic sensor / plug / wire thing around the rear lock tumbler might be the culprit? Could it be the ECU and my used replacement just happens to be broken too? I'm terrible with electronics (give me a vacuum diagram and I'm in heaven...) and need to borrow some testing equipment to get started, but I'm willing to put in the work to figure this out. I'm gathering I'll need to bypass the ECU to make sure the window motor still functions? Seems to be a common place to start with suggestions around this issue.
Anyway, sorry to jack the thread, but figured this community didn't need ANOTHER fresh rear window problems thread. Thanks for any and all info and help!!!
brillo_76
Elite Member
I would start by looking at you tailgate rubber boot that goes from your tailgate to the body. Since that's been open and closed a million times. It's quite possible that wire insulation has warn off and wires have broken exposing copper. Very common to have the wiring in these boots go bad in tailgate and especially the driver side door.
You could also tackle this by doing amp readings when the vehicle is off and see how much of a draw you get after the vehicle been off for 5 min. Pull each fuse associated with the tailgate circuits and look for the ones that drop the amp readings down. When the ECU and circuits goto sleep the current draw is very low. I dont recall the number off hand but it's in many posts in this forum.
I am suspecting broken wires in your tailgate boot.
Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
Thanks for the reply. Just took apart the boot, both top and bottom. Found one wire with exposed copper (green with yellow stripe) but it wasn’t broken or thin or stretched. Taped it back up but didn’t change my predicament. Do you think I need to yank the whole harness out of the tailgate to inspect the whole thing?
Another discovery while in the tailgate: when I had everything plugged in like normal, but then unhooked the wiring going from the lock cylinder to what I think is the window motor and hooked it back together, I got another “click” from somewhere in there. Not sure if relevant but.... it happened.
I believe this weekend I’ll be able to get what I need to start testing wires and circuits. Onward and upward I guess...
Another discovery while in the tailgate: when I had everything plugged in like normal, but then unhooked the wiring going from the lock cylinder to what I think is the window motor and hooked it back together, I got another “click” from somewhere in there. Not sure if relevant but.... it happened.
I believe this weekend I’ll be able to get what I need to start testing wires and circuits. Onward and upward I guess...
Couldn’t help but do a little fiddling around after work today. Lubed the hell out of the key cylinder until it turned like butter and made no noises. Checked the action in the hatch behind the panel. All good but didn’t fix my problem. Was hoping that might unstick something that was stuck. No dice. So then I traced the wire from the back of the cylinder and unplugged it. And something actually happened!
With the lock cylinder wire unplugged, my rear window will go up and down with console switch but not with the key in the rear hatch. My rear wiper works again (with the key in the ACC and ON positions). I also stopped getting the loud click from the ECU so I left it all plugged in to see if my battery is okay in the morning.
So perhaps this wire is the issue? It’s about $30 from the dealer so this could be the cheap easy fix I was hoping for! Anyone have clear instructions on how this wire attaches to and comes apart from the lock cylinder?
With the lock cylinder wire unplugged, my rear window will go up and down with console switch but not with the key in the rear hatch. My rear wiper works again (with the key in the ACC and ON positions). I also stopped getting the loud click from the ECU so I left it all plugged in to see if my battery is okay in the morning.
So perhaps this wire is the issue? It’s about $30 from the dealer so this could be the cheap easy fix I was hoping for! Anyone have clear instructions on how this wire attaches to and comes apart from the lock cylinder?
phattyduck
Elite Member
It sounds like the switch on the key cylinder is the problem. You may be able to clean the contacts on it somehow...
Here's the technical run-down of the issue:
- The back door ECU disables the wiper whenever the rear window is not in the fully-up position or the window is 'moving'
- The back door ECU doesn't have control over the washer pump (that's up front) so that will keep working no mater what happens at the rear door
- If the key switch that actuates the rear window is stuck (probably in the 'up' position), the back door ECU will ignore signals from the dash (errr... console) back window switch. Unplugging it removes that signal from the back door ECU and allows the front switch to operate the window.
I bet if you test continuity on plug at the key cylinder, two connections will be shorted together. With the key in the neutral position, the switch shouldn't have continuity between any contacts. White-Black = ground, Green-Red = window up, Green-Yellow = window down. Short either Green wire to the White-Black wire and the window should move (after a ~1 second delay).
-Charlie
Grog_like_4runner
New member
Similar Issue with Rear Window/wiper/defroster
I'm pretty new here and to 4runners I just picked up my first 98 4runner SR5 a couple weeks ago and had to do some pretty easy fixes an alternator and starter replacement she starts and runs fine. When I bought the 4runner all the windows and sun roof except for the rear window, wiper and defroster worked. I did a little research and from what I had found I assumed it was the rear hatch cracked wiring issue, easy enough fix. Well even after replacing the cracked wiring section ( a single crack in the ground wire). The window/wiper, and defroster still wont work. And on top of that after replacing the alternator now only driver window and sun roof work. I've already checked my fuses but its possible I could've missed something.
To summarize I have what I believe to be two separate issues:
Resetting the windows, and rear hatch functions not working even after wiring harness fix.
Any advice or suggestions would be appreciated, thanks yall:thanks:
I think i posted this in the wrong spot apoligies
I'm pretty new here and to 4runners I just picked up my first 98 4runner SR5 a couple weeks ago and had to do some pretty easy fixes an alternator and starter replacement she starts and runs fine. When I bought the 4runner all the windows and sun roof except for the rear window, wiper and defroster worked. I did a little research and from what I had found I assumed it was the rear hatch cracked wiring issue, easy enough fix. Well even after replacing the cracked wiring section ( a single crack in the ground wire). The window/wiper, and defroster still wont work. And on top of that after replacing the alternator now only driver window and sun roof work. I've already checked my fuses but its possible I could've missed something.
To summarize I have what I believe to be two separate issues:
Resetting the windows, and rear hatch functions not working even after wiring harness fix.
Any advice or suggestions would be appreciated, thanks yall:thanks:
I think i posted this in the wrong spot apoligies
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