Rear hatch won't open when it's hot outside

[ir0nma1den]

I've searched through the forums and have an idea as to why my rear hatch isn't opening when its hot outside (roughly around 90F) - I found a thread about the door lock motors becoming temperature sensitive and weak as they age ( I have the same problem and already bought the motors for this repair). The door problem is annoying but is easily fixed by using the key to unlock the doors.

The hatch is a bigger problem because not only can I not unlock the hatch when it is hot outside, I can't use the key to unlock the hatch - it will only turn to the right and lock. Looking at videos of the hatch, I don't see the same kind of actuator assembly that the doors have. Does anyone know what I have to do to repair/replace to the rear hatch locking motor?

 

[FD7683]

I don't think it's your issue but when you get your hatch to open, check the wiring harness inside the rubber boot. Mine were cracked and were failing after 21+ years.

 

[brillo_76]

I've searched through the forums and have an idea as to why my rear hatch isn't opening when its hot outside (roughly around 90F) - I found a thread about the door lock motors becoming temperature sensitive and weak as they age ( I have the same problem and already bought the motors for this repair). The door problem is annoying but is easily fixed by using the key to unlock the doors.

The hatch is a bigger problem because not only can I not unlock the hatch when it is hot outside, I can't use the key to unlock the hatch - it will only turn to the right and lock. Looking at videos of the hatch, I don't see the same kind of actuator assembly that the doors have. Does anyone know what I have to do to repair/replace to the rear hatch locking motor?

Do you happen to have the year? As the internals change slightly from earlier years vs the last 3 years.



Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk

 

[HiLife]

IRRC on my 2000, the lock actuator for the hatch is mounted by the area of the Toyota logo on the outside sheet metal on the hatch.

If your looking from inside the rear cargo compartment towards the outside, the glass and regulator is there, the lock actuator motor is mounted behind it.

The glass and regulator takes up much of the room and is blocking access to the lock actuator. It may be a PITA to change out based on your wrench level.

To access the lock actuator motor the glass has to come out first, and then it's regulator. Don't drop or bang the glass while removing, it's kind of heavy.

 

[ir0nma1den]

Do you happen to have the year? As the internals change slightly from earlier years vs the last 3 years.


Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk

It's a 2000.

IRRC on my 2000, the lock actuator for the hatch is mounted by the area of the Toyota logo on the outside sheet metal on the hatch.

If your looking from inside the rear cargo compartment towards the outside, the glass and regulator is there, the lock actuator motor is mounted behind it.

The glass and regulator takes up much of the room and is blocking access to the lock actuator. It may be a PITA to change out based on your wrench level.

To access the lock actuator motor the glass has to come out first, and then it's regulator. Don't drop or bang the glass while removing, it's kind of heavy.

That doesn't sound fun. Do you happen to know if the motor inside the hatch lock actuator is the same motor that the doors use? I would assume so, but I don't know.

From your description of the job, it sounds easier for me to just fix the the physical key problem and to ignore the motor. Not sure if I have to get a new lock barrel assembly or if there is something I can do with the original lock barrel to get it to unlock again.

 

[calimobber]

Not sure how heat would effect this but.


On mine 1 of the 2 plastic tabs that screws the key mechanism into the door broke. When I turned the key to the let the whole mechanism flexed and didnt allow it to turn. The right was more solid and I could turn the key.

 

[Romeo1]

Heat affects all my actuators it seems. I lubed the rear hatch lock actuator last week as a stop gap since the lock barrel broke off of the plastic bezel. I have it all on order. The lube on the pivot helped, but sometimes I still have to wait a minute or so for the actuator to rest to have enough force to lock the pivot point correctly.

You can manipulate it though the window sill with a very long rod or screwdriver, 2ft or so with the rear glass down.

The parts weren’t too bad really. I think I’m around 500 for the complete actuator, handle, backer, bezel and plate lights. I’ve had a harness sitting on the shelf for a few months now and I will probably install it at the same time.

There is the possibility you can report the RC motor in the actuator if you choose. I thought about going that route, but my success with fusing plastic parts back together is pretty low overall.

 

[HiLife]

It's a 2000.



That doesn't sound fun. Do you happen to know if the motor inside the hatch lock actuator is the same motor that the doors use? I would assume so, but I don't know.

From your description of the job, it sounds easier for me to just fix the the physical key problem and to ignore the motor. Not sure if I have to get a new lock barrel assembly or if there is something I can do with the original lock barrel to get it to unlock again.

I cant recall if its the same ones as the front and rear doors. As I didn't match it side by side with the front and rear door actuators at the time.

Fixing the lock cylinder would be next best thing to accessing your cargo area. The lock can be easily access with the rear hatch glass in the up position, and taking off the rear license plate surround garnish.

 

[AJPuleo23]

My 2001 has this same problem...

I've noticed it is when the rear hatch is in direct sunlight for most of the day when it is 90+ degrees out.

Almost as if something that is glued, becomes unglued and then re-solidifies once the internal temp drops again...

Having replaced the rear license plate light assy in the last few months, I can confirm that digging into the hatch when it is overhead is a real pain in the neck... lol

Jokes aside... I'll get to it eventually- but for now thank god our back windows go down in a pinch...

 

[fourfive]

As a reference, the part number for the hatch lock actuator is 69690-35030. The actual name of the part is "Control Assembly, Back Door Remote" which made it a little difficult finding the correct part because I was looking for a part that had the word "actuator" in it. There also doesn't seem to be a lot of information out there on the hatch actuator.

I googled a picture of what the part looks like. The motor looks to be enclosed in a similar type of casing as the door lock actuator. Hopefully it's the same type of motor. I'll find out eventually once I figure out how to remove it. I may have missed it but I didn't see instructions on this in the FSM.

 

[ir0nma1den]

As a reference, the part number for the hatch lock actuator is 69690-35030. The actual name of the part is "Control Assembly, Back Door Remote" which made it a little difficult finding the correct part because I was looking for a part that had the word "actuator" in it. There also doesn't seem to be a lot of information out there on the hatch actuator.

I googled a picture of what the part looks like. The motor looks to be enclosed in a similar type of casing as the door lock actuator. Hopefully it's the same type of motor. I'll find out eventually once I figure out how to remove it. I may have missed it but I didn't see instructions on this in the FSM.

Yea I found the same through my research. It's not even in the damn FSM... The actuator itself is of course absurdly expensive, most likely the same motor. I'm going to attempt to fix the key lock first, but if getting to the actuator is easy, I'll try to crack it open and swap the motors if they are the same as the door motors.

 

[Romeo1]

I actually have an actuator assembly on order. It does come complete with linkages. Yeah it’s a couple hundred bucks but what the hell. I need my gate to lock to house all my gear when I’m parked, and unimpeded access to the cooler for my malted beverages.

 

[Gulah]

Yea I found the same through my research. It's not even in the damn FSM... The actuator itself is of course absurdly expensive, most likely the same motor. I'm going to attempt to fix the key lock first, but if getting to the actuator is easy, I'll try to crack it open and swap the motors if they are the same as the door motors.

For anyone searching in the future, I recently replaced the internal motor of my rear hatch door lock actuator and it is the same motor that is in the lock actuators in the other doors. Removal and installation wasn't any more difficult than any of the other doors. Good time to do the rear window inside switch mod while you're in there.