Rear Hatch Won't Stay Closed

[NorthernRyan]

So i finally got my truck back after engine rebuild and a few other things. Got the shop to leave it outside for me and doing my walk around i noticed the rear hatch won't stay closed...so sad...

So when closing it it will actuate and pull the door in like normal, but it just pops back out. There's nothing stopping the mechanism from unlatching. It's odd.

Background. When the engine went and i had the car in the garage with the battery off i went to open the rear but obviously it couldn't open without power. So I tried to use the plastic door and latch inside procedure but could never get it to open using the safety latch. Now with power it won't stay closed.

I need to leave this thing outside tonight and after 11k of repairs I'm about to set the damn thing on fire. Please help. Thanks.

 

[BlackWorksInc]

Unfortunately it does sound like the actuator may be bad... would need to see it to get a better idea.

Did you make sure the manual overide is not stuck or anything?

 

[NorthernRyan]

I will drive the 5 hours home tomorrow with the rope holding it closed and I can get a video of it then. It does have that feeling of the override is now stuck but i jiggled it to no effect. Effing truck

 

[BlackWorksInc]

I will drive the 5 hours home tomorrow with the rope holding it closed and I can get a video of it then. It does have that feeling of the override is now stuck but i jiggled it to no effect. Effing truck

Sorry to hear that.

 

[zonianbrat]

Did I read that right? 11,000 dollars in repairs? Is the new motor twin-turbo? I'm sorry I am not trying to be an ass. It just seems like a lot of money to put into a 12yr old vehicle. I commend you though for sticking with a vehicle you obviously love. Did the shop do anything with the back hatch? Were their any repairs made back there? I would think you could unhook the rear hatch ecu thing there-by disabling it. It should function like a normal hatch. Check the position of the stryker while you are at it. Good luck.

 

[Gatafly]

Its a bad actuator. I had tge same problem and replaced it with one I got on Amazon. Price was good and replacment was very easy, did it in less than 30 minutes. There is a thread on here somewhere that shows how to do it I think.

 

[t-man]

Had that pop up, I sprayed it relentlessly with WD-40, letting it try to close over and over until it worked the WD-40 in, sprayed more, over and over and it finally started working again. Been fine for 8 months now, but I know I will have to replace it sooner or later. I think the problem is that water and dirt get up in there while driving down the road and freezes the mechanism up.

 

[NorthernRyan]

Thought I would let you guys know what the conclusion was.

I WD-40 the thing relentlessly and opened and closed it, didn't work. Searched on here and found the diagram for taking the rear panel off which is the hardest (but easy) part. Then four bolts and its out. Took it out of the plastic housing by force and messed around with it out. Plugged it back in and did the reset. Nada. Fairly sure the latch is straight up broken inside. My car sat in the garage for 9 months when the engine failed, and I'm guessing the latch rusted in place. When I went to open it the emergency latch wouldn't even work so I left it for the garages to deal with it and either I or the engine place broke the latch. No one said anything but I don't really care as it was probably doomed.

Called Toyota today and was quoted $541 for the part. Remember I'm in Canada and in oil country so it is probably the highest price around. Even with the exchange rate and shipping from the states we are talking $350. So I thought I would try the wreckers.

One 4th gen 4runner in the place, assembly sitting in the trunk no plastic covering. Plug it in in the parking lot to test it. Seems to work, buy it for $60.

OLD VS WRECKERS


Mine was far more rusty, but this one was off a 2005 and I'm pretty sure its been at the wreckers for 4 plus years now.
When pulling the emergency release latch on mine it all had the same weight. When pulling the wreckers one it would have the same weight at first then connect with what I presume was the latch. Definitely can feel the difference.

Cleaned it up and re greased the gears.


Put my butchered housing back on since it didn't come with one. (Don't laugh)


Installed it, did the reset procedure. (Battery disconnect, connect motor assembly, reconnect battery, turn car to on, driver window down then up, back window down then up) Closed the door and it stayed closed! Went to open it and the handle didn't work. But I remembered reading you have to lock the gate with the key and unlock it. Try that, handle works!

Super happy I got this done for $60. And it really is an easy install. Thanks to the forum again!

PS It was more than just the engine, but that will be another post when I get around to it.

 

[mid9pitstop]

Excellent Job!

Not only you learned how to replace the bad part, but you also learned how to do it the cost-effective way.
congrats on the job well done.

Cheers.

 

[Tomffmedic]

Latch won't turn light off.

My lift gate latch opens and closes just fine. It just won't turn off the inside cargo done light. I can push on the door and it will turn it off. When it is open I manually manipulate the latch with a screwdriver and it only needs to go in 1/4" further to turn dome light off. I have looked and can't find anything adjustable to make it work properly. This is on my 2001 SR5. Grrrr!

 

[smurph]

Thought I would let you guys know what the conclusion was.



Super happy I got this done for $60. And it really is an easy install. Thanks to the forum again!

Thanks NorthernRyan. I'm in Edmonton and my rear hatch just started doing this a few days ago. I've tried spraying different penetrants and lubes in there to no end. It latched once when I slammed it hard. Since then - nada. I'll check out a wrecker and see what I can find. Time to sell this thing and upgrade.

 

[GPrunner]

Have an '08

And it started to do the same thing. Good to know the fix is easy.

 

[hinmo24t]

i just did this a few mos ago...easy repair with the amazon oem part!

 

[smurph]

Had that pop up, I sprayed it relentlessly with WD-40, letting it try to close over and over until it worked the WD-40 in, sprayed more, over and over and it finally started working again. Been fine for 8 months now, but I know I will have to replace it sooner or later. I think the problem is that water and dirt get up in there while driving down the road and freezes the mechanism up.

I did the same a few months ago. I removed the unit from the door and gave it a liberal soaking in penetrant fluid. Then greased anything that could be greased and it's been fine since. I agree - dirt, water etc gets in there - especially with our winters here - and jams it up.

 

[chansen]

Solved

I had this happen a couple of years ago and took it to my mechanic. Water was ponding in the tailgate because the weep holes were plugged with grit and other debris. He broke off the plastic shell from the actuator and freed something, but didn't tell me what.

When it happened again, he took it apart again, said the computer part was done, and said I'd have to order a new one from Toyota. I got the truck back, took the cover off the inside, unplugged the blue cable from the computer, plugged it back in, and it worked. My mechanic didn't even try the first rule of problem solving - unplug it and plug it back in.

Last year it happened again. I took the actuator off and it was caked in rust. I soaked it over 24 hours in a tub of Evapo-Rust. That stuff works, but note that once it has changed colour, it's done. Change the liquid if there is still more rust. It will take the rust off down to the bare, pitted metal. After I dried it off, I painted the non-moving exposed surfaces and oiled the moving bits. To my absolute amazement, the actuator worked again.

When the tailgate stopped remaining closed again this week, I figured it was done for good and I'd have to get a new part, and drive for a week with bungee cords holding my hatch down. Took it apart again to see what I could figure out.

The answer came from a YouTube video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VsXnrD7XEls&feature=youtu.be

In fact, my actuator doesn't quite look like this. My mechanic at the first appointment managed to cut off part of the metal covering the latch spring mechanism that this guy is freeing up with lubricant and a little hook. So I was able to gain better access than the video shows, but it's still not a place you can even get a brush to remove much rust. All you can really do is get lubricant in there (I used Krown anti-rust oil, but a lot of things would probably do, though I would avoid WD40 myself) and manipulate the rotating spring until it is free and returns to where it wants to be on its own.

When you close the tailgate/hatch, the motor on the actuator pulls the latch closed. Then this spring is supposed to snap back and engage before the motor relaxes and releases the tailgate. When this spring can't return on it's own, the motor lets go of the tailgate and your tailgate is loose.

Mine is back together, but if anyone needs a picture of this spring, I'll take it apart again.

Yes, you can get a new actuator, and I think I will. There is no way this should still work. Mine looks like it's been through a war, buried, dug up, and left for scrap. But it still works. I have a new truck on order. I just need it to work for a few more months. It's been a great vehicle, but it's time. Please, 4runner gods, let it work without major expenses for a few more months.