Rear Liftgate issues

[SpidermanGeek]

Hi all,

I'm either just unlucky or unskilled in using the search feature on this forum, but I have eben trying to find some info on the more common Liftgate issues that plague some of the 3rd Gens.

I have a '97 Limited (4x4/V6/Auto/E-Locker) with a liftgate that will not open. I purchased the rig with this issue and it's one of the first things I'm trying to adress. I would love to have a functioning liftgate without having to spend a ton of cash.

Issues:

First issue: Handle works, but seems to be missing just that little bit of extra movement to actually pull the latch cable enough to disengage it and open the liftgate.

If I use my fingers and just move the horizontal bar a bit more, the liftgate opens.

Second issue: The lock mechanism doesn't seem to work. I've heard it can be used to bring the rear window down, but I can't get the lock to move to either side. So the only way to lock/unlock the liftgate and operate the window is from the driver's seat (I don't have FOB/keyless entry).


My question is, what solutions or steps have some of you taken just to get the liftgate to open without having to hunt down or purchase new parts (I looked into the price of just getting new OEM "guts".. ouch.)

Are there "home remedies" to this issue?

My latch works fine (pops in/out with ease), my fear is that either the cable is stretched or the handle mechanism is worn out.


How hard is it to take the rear window and rear window motor out to gain full access to the lifgate handle? I do have a bit of rust to deal with, but overall it isn't too bad

P.S. I already managed to access the teh mechanisms from the inside, but since I couldn't fix the issues right away, I didn't put the plastic panel back on until I can fix this. At least it's not too hard for me to open the liftgate from the inside at the moment, just extremely inconveniant.

 

[Ckooyers]

I had that same problem I just bent the part that held the cable so it would stretch the cable enough worked great the key thing is a whole other issue so the key won't turn the tumbler at all? If that's the case some one may have replaced the hatch and neglected to swap tumblers so that key might be wrong or pull it out and try to free it up, pulling the glass and motor is not fun!! Wouldn't recommend it

 

[SpidermanGeek]

I had that same problem I just bent the part that held the cable so it would stretch the cable enough worked great the key thing is a whole other issue so the key won't turn the tumbler at all? If that's the case some one may have replaced the hatch and neglected to swap tumblers so that key might be wrong or pull it out and try to free it up, pulling the glass and motor is not fun!! Wouldn't recommend it

Yeah, I'm trying to avoid having to pull the glass and motor.

I'll see if maybe I can work in some lube to loosen things up in the tumbler, it won't move at all with either of my 2 keys.

Which part exactly did you bend. I'm trying to remember how exactly the cable is hooked up at the "cluster" (where the lock/handle/latch components all connect near the middle driver's side of the gate.).

 

[Ckooyers]

Lol! I can't remember exactly where I bent it it was up by the handle I replaced the hatch and that's when I ran into the problem and it could still be wrong tumbler for the key both keys

 

[SpidermanGeek]

Sorry, what I meant to say is that I don't think the Liftgate was replaced, as far as I know. I'll double check with the previous owner.

 

[Loubaru]

For the handle not working I would try lubing up and possibly replacing the latch mechanism. You have to take the hatch part of the way apart to replace it but it isn't that bad (you don't have to remove the glass). Inside the hatch there is a cable attached to the handle that activates the latch.

For the lock not working the solenoid/linkage probably needs lubing up or replacing. Pull the cover off the hatch and inspect the solenoid/linkage. I just recently replaced my dented hatch with one that had been sitting in a junk yard for a long time (very dusty) and my lock didn't work at first either, but after cleaning and lubing the linkage it now works fine. I took the old one out of my old hatch (has low miles and worked fine before removing) just in case the one in the replacement hatch fails down the road.

 

[SpidermanGeek]

The latch mechanism is fine. Already lubed it up and spent over an hour working it and when operating the latch "manually", it acts as it should.

I didn't spend as much time on the lock tumbler, but I'll be sure to give it another go and try to get things moving next time I get the chance.

I guess I'll just have to take another crack at it all and see If I can just bend or adjust things to give me the travel I need from the handle mechanism to disengage the latch.

 

[gamefreakgc]

This adds absolutely nothing to this thread.

I was going to comment on the fact that you had some sort of chemical dripping down your rear bumper and you forgot to wipe the car wash foam off the back, when I realized that was ice and snow. I'm so spoiled here in California.

 

[ajonesnv]

Pardon if this was answered, tl;dr, My buddy had a lock tumbler that wasn't working on his Taco, so he took it apart and cleaned it. After that if functioned perfectly fine, so it may just need to be cleaned from all that crappy northern weather you get.

 

[SpidermanGeek]

Pardon if this was answered, tl;dr, My buddy had a lock tumbler that wasn't working on his Taco, so he took it apart and cleaned it. After that if functioned perfectly fine, so it may just need to be cleaned from all that crappy northern weather you get.

Yup, this is the general assumption.

I double checked with the previous owner and he confirmed that it was working when he bought the vehicle and as far as he knows, it was the original liftgate and lock from factory.

He hadn't used the T4R much in the last few years, he wasn't aware the lock no longer worked.

So my next step will be to have a closer look at the lock mechanism and clean that out. Being able to roll the rear window down from the gate will make things that much more conveniant if I can't fix the handle/latch issue.

 

[wc11]

I went through some of this last winter.

Over the years , out of habit, i would spray white lithium on the hinges & latches. The grease got hard over time so I just used a screwdriver shaft to simulate the open and closing of the latch.

Then sprayed liberally, a whole can of WD40 while working the latch literally washing out all the caked on grease and dirt. Took about a half hour or so and it's messy but problem solved.

Same deal with the key tumbler.

As for the window regulator and motor, I replaced the complete x-arm assembly as mine had rusted and seized. Not really a tough job but does require patience.

 

[SpidermanGeek]

Yeah, for now the window still works, although there is a visible amount of rust damage on the glass brackets and the window is a little noisey coming down the guides.

I'll just leave that alone for now, don't want to awaken the goblins by fiddling too much with it.

I did the whole WD40 release the gunk treatment on the latch and worked wonders.. I just haven't done it on the tumbler yet. I'm 95% sure this will fix the issue.

Just gotta figure something out for the handle now

 

[Loubaru]

The latch mechanism is fine. Already lubed it up and spent over an hour working it and when operating the latch "manually", it acts as it should.

I didn't spend as much time on the lock tumbler, but I'll be sure to give it another go and try to get things moving next time I get the chance.

I guess I'll just have to take another crack at it all and see If I can just bend or adjust things to give me the travel I need from the handle mechanism to disengage the latch.

The tumbler is a ***** to remove so before taking it apart I'd remove the panel from the hatch to make sure your solenoid and linkage are working. Like I said, mine did the same exact thing as your (with the tumbler not unlocking it) and after messing with it a bunch I realized that the solenoid/linkage was frozen with dust/dirt. If you take the panel off you should be able to see it, then just have someone turn the lock tumbler and see if the solenoid/linkage moves or if it just clicks.

 

[6string]

lift gate

had the same problem on my 99 what I did was take off the back panel it can be done with it closed work from the bottom removed then take out the 10mm bolts that hold the metal cover on spray I figgerd it was a loose or broken linkage after inspection all seemed hooked up so I manually pulled the cable to open the hatch then I sprayed all moving parts with wd40 I removed the cables and spayed them as well put it all togather and works just fine the problem was road dust build up

 

[6string]

lift gate

had the same problem on my 99 what I did was take off the back panel it can be done with it closed work from the bottom then take out the 10mm bolts that hold the metal cover on I figgerd it was a loose or broken linkage after inspection all seemed hooked up so I manually pulled the cable to open the hatch then I sprayed all moving parts with wd40 I removed the cables and spayed them as well put it all togather and works just fine the problem was road dust build up

 

[SpidermanGeek]

The tumbler is a ***** to remove so before taking it apart I'd remove the panel from the hatch to make sure your solenoid and linkage are working. Like I said, mine did the same exact thing as your (with the tumbler not unlocking it) and after messing with it a bunch I realized that the solenoid/linkage was frozen with dust/dirt. If you take the panel off you should be able to see it, then just have someone turn the lock tumbler and see if the solenoid/linkage moves or if it just clicks.

I'm pretty sure the solenoid/linkage works because my power door locks work on the rear hatch. I had the panel off and can move all teh parts connected to the tumbler, it's just the key won't budge in it. It's gotta be some sort of gunk build up.

 

[SpidermanGeek]

Little update on this, I drowned the tumbler with WD40 and basically went 50 Shades of Grey on the key hole with the key. After about a minute of diddling, it finally let go and now I can operate my rear window from the lifgate key hole. Yay!

Although my window sounds like crap when being operated. The rails/guides must have a buildup of rust too. I'll have to see what I can do about that when I work on the handle from the access panel.

 

[jeremyc74]

I just had mine apart to install a backup camera, and replace the license plate trim panel. It's not that difficult to work with.

The plastic trim on the inside will pop right off. Just start at one of the bottom corners and work your way around. Once you have the bottom and side loose, you have to push it up towards the glass and it will come off the lip that's holding it.

After that there's a metal plate with about 6 bolts in it that's no problem. Once you're past that you can see everything. The handle is bolted to the inside of the plastic trim that holds the plate and plate lights. There are a couple of bolts at the bottom that you can get to, and then two at the top that are behind the window mechanism.

To get to those, take the four bolts out of the frame holding the window motor, and just slide the whole thing down. The window will move with it. Then you can get to the other bolts and pull the whole thing out. Nearly everything in there is 10mm.

There's a plastic lever that comes off the back of the liftgate handle that actually operates the cable assembly. Yours might just be worn out. The brackets that hold the handle were rusted up pretty good on mine, even though it's a FL truck, so it's possible that's your issue as well.

The lever is in red, and the bolts are in blue. All the other fasteners are plastic clips.

Edit: Those two in blue at the bottom are actually plastic clips, not bolts. There's a third bolt that's over by the key switch. So only three bolts and the rest are plastic clips.

The four bolts for the window motor frame are removed here.

Rod to cable connection.

 

[SpidermanGeek]

Yup, I've had it all apart before and cleaned/lubed up/tweaked whatever I could, but the handle just doesn't seem to pull the cable enough to actually disengage the latch.

And it's not the handle itself (if it travelled any furtehr, I'd actually be bending the plate frame). It really just feels like the latch cable is stretched.

Everything moved freely, it's just missing a smidge more movement to actually open.

When it gets warmer, I'll take the metal panel off again and have another look (after the first attempt, I didn't reinstall the interior plastic panel back so I have quick access to the guts of the gate whenever I tackle this again.)

At least with the rear window operational from the key, I can actually throw stuff in the back now, lol.

 

[SpidermanGeek]

There's a plastic lever that comes off the back of the liftgate handle that actually operates the cable assembly. Yours might just be worn out. The brackets that hold the handle were rusted up pretty good on mine, even though it's a FL truck, so it's possible that's your issue as well.

I spoke too soon, that is one thing I didn't do is remove the plate frame.

Thanks for this, I'll check this out next time. The first time, I did try to reach this spot, and I unbolted the rear window motor, but I couldn't get it to slide down. If it does slide down though and the window follows with it, doesn't the window end up being in the way of reaching the handle bracket/assembly?