Rear main seal cover?

[thegipper]

I replaced the rear main seal in the donor motor I'm swapping in with part# 90080-31053. It's an oem seal I got off of ebay.

All of the online vendors have 90311-A0027 as the current PN for that seal.

The one I got is apparently an older PN as it's listed under "replaces PN" etc etc.

I pulled the old seal out easily with the lisle tool. When I installed the new one, I put a light coat of oil around the OD and ID of the seal. When I installed it I was able to push it in by hand for the most part. Does that seem normal?

Also, I was going to replace the FIPG on the hosing for the seal. I removed all of the 10mm bolts but it doesn't seem to want to come off at the bottom.

Then I noticed this. Is there bolts from the inside of the pan that hold the bottom of that plate? I dont want to break anything.

Thanks

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[4Runner4Leon]

That makes no sense. The service manual shows six screws going in from the back side (i.e. into the block). I also found another picture that shows the same thing (see below). I wonder if the two screws you see (that seem to be threaded in from the other side) are actually remnants of broken screws that were overtorqued? My point is that the holes in the block are threaded, and the holes in the retainer are through holes, so I don't think there is any way to thread them in from the far end.

From everything I've read, there's no need to remove the retainer, unless there is obvious leaking. So that's an option. But if you're like me, you wouldn't be happy with 2 of the 6 screws being broken, and now would be the time to fix that. I'd wiggle the retainer and pull it off, I think only the FIPG is holding it on and you'll find two broken screws once you remove it.

 

[thegipper]

They don't look like broken screws, perhaps they are just alignment pins or something. It's entirely possible that the rtv at the bottom is what's holding it. I just wanted to make sure before I broke something.

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[4Runner4Leon]

Oh, I see what you're pointing to - those do seem to be the alignment features. I mistakenly thought your arrows were pointing to the larger holes at the corners.

If you removed 6 screws, then you're done.

 

[thegipper]

Yup, thats all I did. I'll go give it another shot.

 

[thegipper]

I figured it out. There are two bolts on the oil pan you have to remove. Hopefully I didnt mess up my new seal or this plate in the process.

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[thecole1098]

There’s two bolts at the bottom that the oil pan attaches to. Remove them and it’ll come right off. Be sure to liberally apply FIPG to the bottom lip of the cover, oil pan lip, edges where retainer meets block and of course the mating surface of the retainer to block.

 

[thegipper]

Got it a cleaned up and put a heavy dose of FIPG around everything. Didn't expect that to be such a pain in the butt.

Don't forget the two oil pan bolts that have to come off! Doh..

Torque spec on the bolts are 71 in/lbs

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[fourfive]

Got it a cleaned up and put a heavy dose of FIPG around everything. Didn't expect that to be such a pain in the butt.

Don't forget the two oil pan bolts that have to come off! Doh..

Torque spec on the bolts are 71 in/lbs

I've heard you mention using the FSM to replace the rear main seal in another thread, do you happen to remember what section of the FSM it's in? I've looked through the "engine mechanical", "lubrication" & "auto transmission" sections but having trouble finding the rear main seal replacement procedure in the FSM.

 

[weekendclimber]

I've heard you mention using the FSM to replace the rear main seal in another thread, do you happen to remember what section of the FSM it's in? I've looked through the "engine mechanical", "lubrication" & "auto transmission" sections but having trouble finding the rear main seal replacement procedure in the FSM.

If you've got the standard 2002 one floating around, it's in a couple sections.

EM-102 (page 914) mentions the 71 ft/lbs of the 6 bolts on the retainer, EM-97 (page 909) shows replacement with the retainer in-place and removed from the block.

 

[Dieselchessy]

I just did the rear main seal on one of these using the Felpro gasket set. My rear main was able to be installed by firm pressure with my thumbs. Looser than I would have expected, but I believe it will stay in place.

 

[brillo_76]

I need to change my rear main in my 97 5 speed.

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[fourfive]

If you've got the standard 2002 one floating around, it's in a couple sections.

EM-102 (page 914) mentions the 71 ft/lbs of the 6 bolts on the retainer, EM-97 (page 909) shows replacement with the retainer in-place and removed from the block.

Perfect, thank you.

Did you guys do the extra step of removing that plate/cover to apply the FIPG? Didn't even know that was part of the job until I saw this thread.

 

[mtbtim]

We replaced a rear main seal when doing a recent clutch job. It's at the beginning of Part 2.

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[mtbtim]

Perfect, thank you.

Did you guys do the extra step of removing that plate/cover to apply the FIPG? Didn't even know that was part of the job until I saw this thread.

It's only part of the job if you want it to be. I personally wouldn't mess with it unless there was signs of a leak.

 

[DAWG NATION]

My rear main seal also needs to be replaced. Unfortunately I don't think I can do it myself, mechanic quoted $850...

 

[fourfive]

It's only part of the job if you want it to be. I personally wouldn't mess with it unless there was signs of a leak.

I've been considering whether I should do the rear main seal if it's not leaking. I bought a seal anyway just in case.

 

[DAWG NATION]

I've been considering whether I should do the rear main seal if it's not leaking. I bought a seal anyway just in case.

How difficult is the job?
Any special tools required?
Thanks

 

[Bad Luck]

How difficult is the job?
Any special tools required?
Thanks

You have to remove the transmission and flexplate to get to the rear main seal so the difficulty involved is going to depend on your mechanical ability and tools.

 

[fourfive]

How difficult is the job?
Any special tools required?
Thanks

Replacing the seal doesn't seem too difficult but getting to it is pretty involved because you have to pretty much remove the transmission. In my case there's the concern of fixing something that's not leaking & potentially creating a leak due to forming a bad seal. If mine was leaking I would replace it since I'm replacing my transmission but since it isn't I'm wondering if I want to take the risk of creating a potential issue. Would need a seal puller but no other special tools. You could use a cheaper seal puller or a seal puller kit. I have used both with good results on other seals I've replaced.

Amazon.com: Private Brand Tools PBT70960 Crankshaft and Camshaft Seal Tool Kit: Automotive

Amazon.com: Lisle 58430 Shaft Type Seal Puller: Automotive