Rear main seal

[Myrunr2010]

So my clutch is quickly getting to the point of needing to be replaced. While i'm doing the clutch, I intend to do the rear main seal since i've been letting out a good amount of oil (I did the valve cover gaskets last year, not the oil leak).

Given that, my question is, is there any one seal that is better than another? Or should i just go to the auto parts store and ask for whatever they have. I know with the valve cover gaskets the felpro gaskets seemed to be the preferred one to use. Suggestions?!

 

[ThorInc]

For the rear main and the actual cost of the Toyota rear main seal, OEM and only OEM.

 

[Myrunr2010]

What's a toyota oem seal cost?

 

[nissanh]

Try camelbacktoyota.

Check number 17 on this link.
1997 Toyota 4Runner Parts - Camelback Toyota Parts - Genuine OEM Parts - Free Shipping

 

[midcoma]

I recently changed mine and it was around $32-34 from the local dealer.

I actually did it twice, unfortunately. The seal I bought from the dealer is an updated part and the number molded into the seal is different. I think it may be slightly thinner than the seal that was originally in there but I didn't measure anything. So the first time I drove the seal in a little too deep and it leaked.

The second time I used a short section of 4" PVC, sanded smooth on one side so it didn't damage the new seal and with a 4" end cap on the other, to drive the seal in. It covers the seal but is also slightly larger so it stops when it hits the metal housing on the engine. Using the pipe it was pretty easy to get the seal flush with the housing. And best part, it didn't leak anymore.

 

[GHARP57]

When I replace mine I am going to do the retainer as well as the seal. They retail for 95.15. You can obviously buy them cheaper from olathe or camelback toyota. If you check your local dealer they may give you a similar discount.

90311-92010 is the rear main seal retails 44.13
11381-62010 is the rear main seal retainer that is 46.23.

Think of it like this. The factory rear main has lasted you 10+ years. I would go back with it so you are set. Hell I see you are a VMI grad, do you come back through Charlottesville to Lexington often? Maybe I can hook you up with a decent price on it

 

[midcoma]

When I replace mine I am going to do the retainer as well as the seal.

You think it's necessary to replace the retainer? IMO, the most I would do is remove the original retainer, clean it, and reseal it with FIPG. Unless there was something wrong with it.

 

[GHARP57]

You think it's necessary to replace the retainer? IMO, the most I would do is remove the original retainer, clean it, and reseal it with FIPG. Unless there was something wrong with it.

Hell my luck when I take it out it will bend or get a nick in it. I would rather be safe than sorry. I am sure 99% of people have zero issues re using their old retainer, it would be my luck

 

[TheDurk]

Hell my luck when I take it out it will bend or get a nick in it. I would rather be safe than sorry. I am sure 99% of people have zero issues re using their old retainer, it would be my luck

I'm one of the 99%. No issues reusing. That's $46 better spent elsewhere.

 

[Myrunr2010]

When I replace mine I am going to do the retainer as well as the seal. They retail for 95.15. You can obviously buy them cheaper from olathe or camelback toyota. If you check your local dealer they may give you a similar discount.

90311-92010 is the rear main seal retails 44.13
11381-62010 is the rear main seal retainer that is 46.23.

Think of it like this. The factory rear main has lasted you 10+ years. I would go back with it so you are set. Hell I see you are a VMI grad, do you come back through Charlottesville to Lexington often? Maybe I can hook you up with a decent price on it

I'm assuming the retainer is literally just that, the item that holds the seal in place?

We pass through that way semi frequently. We have a wedding in hot springs va to go to this weekend and will be pass through that way...

 

[GHARP57]

I'm assuming the retainer is literally just that, the item that holds the seal in place?

We pass through that way semi frequently. We have a wedding in hot springs va to go to this weekend and will be pass through that way...

I would have to order it. You let me know and I can have it next day.

 

[Myrunr2010]

I know this is a seemingly dumb question, but, I do need to drain the oil to do the rear main seal, right? My friend did the rear main on his 80's Z and he claims the oil did not have to be drained.

 

[amalik]

Don't you have to pull the engine or the tranny (either one) for a rear main seal? ^_^

 

[Myrunr2010]

Don't you have to pull the engine or the tranny (either one) for a rear main seal? ^_^

Well, the trans is coming down to do the clutch. His engine was out but had oil in it.

 

[amalik]

Well, the trans is coming down to do the clutch. His engine was out but had oil in it.

Oh sorry, I have a slush box as the durk would say [emoji1]

So the rear main is probably a bit easier on a manual tranny.

 

[Myrunr2010]

Oh sorry, I have a slush box as the durk would say [emoji1]

So the rear main is probably a bit easier on a manual tranny.

Well, that combined with the fact that I'm doing the clutch anyways, lol.

 

[amalik]

Yea man. Go OEM on a seal like that or go home!

 

[Myrunr2010]

Yea man. Go OEM on a seal like that or go home!

Yeah I ended up ordering an oem one

 

[TheDurk]

I did my rear main when I did my clutch two years ago. I don't think I drained the engine. In any case, the crank and seal sit above the pan. Lower edge is JUST above the pan, so the oil doesn't drain out. After all, you wouldn't want the oil level to be so high it touches the cranks, as they would turn the pan into a blender bowl and aerate the crap out of your oil. Oil sits below the crank, and thus below the seal.

Oh sorry, I have a slush box as the durk would say [emoji1]

So the rear main is probably a bit easier on a manual tranny.

Heh, you're learning. Yeah, it was pretty easy. 15 or 20 minutes, max. A good thing to do along with a clutch. I had planned it, but when I got there, it was clearly weeping oil at 160k.

Do your starter contacts, too, if they haven't been done. Mine were very thin and would not have lasted much longer.

 

[Myrunr2010]

I did my rear main when I did my clutch two years ago. I don't think I drained the engine. In any case, the crank and seal sit above the pan. Lower edge is JUST above the pan, so the oil doesn't drain out. After all, you wouldn't want the oil level to be so high it touches the cranks, as they would turn the pan into a blender bowl and aerate the crap out of your oil. Oil sits below the crank, and thus below the seal.

Thanks durk, makes sense. Thanks for giving an explanation and not just answering the question. Love knowing the why.