Rear Mount Turbo Questions

Alright, I have seen some people run PVC right from the turbo...but I never knew how it held up. Thank you. Think this would hold up for the air intake, probably rerouted back into the rear bumper area? 3 INCH ADJUSTABLE FLEXIBLE SHORT RAM/COLD AIR INTAKE DUCT TURBO TUBE PIPE HOSE

If you have to ask what can be used or hold up as an intake for a turbo kit your trying to build, then maybe this is over your head. Research how other vehicles have done it, lot more info on those. It all works pretty much the same. Anything thats literally a pipe with a hole will work. IMO cheap metal piping would be a lot better.
 
No, I am just conscious of my money, and I could just waste my money and jump into this stuff with no guidance, I will learn either way. I just figure that I should ask as many questions as possible before I spend my money. I have never installed a turbo before, and have not even been in contact with them first hand, therefore I have no way of knowing these things. If I don't turbo a car myself, I will never learn how to turbo a car, and I don't have 5 grand to pay a shop to do it for me. And yes, this is probably over my head at this exact moment, and if I do not ask questions how will it ever become attainable?
 
I have no professionals around me to ask, and there are tons of people on here who are professionals, or are at least much more knowlegdable about this stuff than I am. I believe you are one of these people and I am just looking for some guidance so that this will no longer be "over my head". I am also sure that many other people can use this thread in the future if they have questions too, there really isn't much literature on rear mount turbos, especially on a 4Runner
 
Exhaust shops aren't the only people that can bend pipe. An experienced electrician (commercial/industrial, especially) can hand bend pipe better than most exhaust techs, that I can promise you! Reach out to a few. You may find a sympathetic gear head that would like to have his/her name on a project like this.
 
Exhaust shops aren't the only people that can bend pipe. An experienced electrician (commercial/industrial, especially) can hand bend pipe better than most exhaust techs, that I can promise you! Reach out to a few. You may find a sympathetic gear head that would like to have his/her name on a project like this.
I will have to look into that, and if anyone on here is willing to help out around Hanover, PA (I doubt it)...I am open to any assistance.
 
You'll probably want to use exhaust tubing for the charge/intake run. Bending thin wall exhaust tube will fall to an exhaust shop as that's a whole 'nother kind of bender. I've always wanted to do this as well so I'll be watching your progress.
 
You'll probably want to use exhaust tubing for the charge/intake run. Bending thin wall exhaust tube will fall to an exhaust shop as that's a whole 'nother kind of bender. I've always wanted to do this as well so I'll be watching your progress.
Yeah, I was also thinking that the exhaust tubing might withstand the elements better under the 4Runner. I will have to ask my instructor at my high school if his pipe bender would be able to handle exhaust tubing, it is a pain trying not to kink the metal, but he might know how to do it, or have a friend that can give me a deal...lol
 
Does anyone think it is worth it to run all braided oil lines? I know it isn't necessary, but would you recommend it? Its a long run from the scavenge pump to the engine, but I just want to hear some opinions.
 
Does anyone think it is worth it to run all braided oil lines? I know it isn't necessary, but would you recommend it? Its a long run from the scavenge pump to the engine, but I just want to hear some opinions.

If there is a local industrial hose supply, they can most likely put together some heavy duty feed/return lines for less money than braided AN stuff. I had a shop make me oil feed lines, the hose is rated to way over 1000 PSI (engine oil pressures are only in the double digits) and the hydraulically crimped fittings had the proper threads so no need to buy adapter fittings to fit AN's to whatever NPT/BSPT fittings the pump,engine,and turbo has. It's less hassle than assembling your own lines, braided AN stuff isn't much fun to work with.
 
If there is a local industrial hose supply, they can most likely put together some heavy duty feed/return lines for less money than braided AN stuff. I had a shop make me oil feed lines, the hose is rated to way over 1000 PSI (engine oil pressures are only in the double digits) and the hydraulically crimped fittings had the proper threads so no need to buy adapter fittings to fit AN's to whatever NPT/BSPT fittings the pump,engine,and turbo has. It's less hassle than assembling your own lines, braided AN stuff isn't much fun to work with.

How much did they charge you for it? The braided line isn't the expensive part, its the damn AN fittings... I definitely understand that it would be easier to simply not use AN's. I will have to figure out what fittings/adapters I need once I actually order my pump and all, never know what will actually come with that stuff. Then I can price it out and compare.
 
How much did they charge you for it? The braided line isn't the expensive part, its the damn AN fittings... I definitely understand that it would be easier to simply not use AN's. I will have to figure out what fittings/adapters I need once I actually order my pump and all, never know what will actually come with that stuff. Then I can price it out and compare.

I can't remember,this was maybe 5 years ago but it definitely cost me less than its braided + AN equivalent, and took them less than 10 minutes to assemble it after giving them the specs I needed.
 
I can't remember,this was maybe 5 years ago but it definitely cost me less than its braided + AN equivalent, and took them less than 10 minutes to assemble it after giving them the specs I needed.

Alright, I will have to look around and check out some places. There isn't too much around here, but I'm sure someone does it lol
 
Hey Matthew... I finished my rear mount turbo about 2 months ago, and I LOVE IT! I used the info from all the other guy's threads (I think I read each thread 5 times before I dove into it lol). I spent a little of 1k for all my parts and did all the labor myself.
Couple of things:
1. This will be very difficult to complete in 1 weekend, especially if you have no experience with turbo installs, etc. so give yourself a week to get everything lined up, measured, oil lines "pre-installed" but not hooked up, and your exhaust pipe/manifold completely ready.
2. Getting you exhaust/manifold will probably be the only thing you need help with. You are 17 correct? You can prep the pipe by yourself like it did in the pics below and take it to your high school and have your welding teacher weld it for you! As you guys can see, I am a shitty welder!
2psqfc1.jpg

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3. I did my entire set up without bending a single pipe. I was able to use PVC pipe for my charge pipes and angled couplers to achieve the bends required.
4. I am using all ebay parts (turbo, bov, wastegate, turbo timer, boost controller etc), I did loose on of the seals on my turbo last week, ordered a rebuild kit for $30 and its up and going again with no problems.
Here is a link to most of parts I purchased including price, and where I purchased them from... Turbo 4runner Mod list .pdf - PDF Archive
5. As I mentioned earlier, I did not have to bend any piping. I used angled couplers.
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Here are some diagrams I set up for my specific configuration.
Oil lines and random hardware
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Boost lines
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Sorry for the massive pictures, but I figured it would be nice to have more detail! Hope this info helps... let me know if you have anymore questions!
 
Thank you SO much for posting those pictures and diagrams, it clears up a lot. Do you remember what fittings/diameters you used for your oil lines? Or do you have some up close pics of the scavenge pump hook ups? Also, is the catch can necessary, or is that just an extra precaution(AKA is it worth it)? Thank you very much for taking the time to entertain my questions.
 
Thank you SO much for posting those pictures and diagrams, it clears up a lot. Do you remember what fittings/diameters you used for your oil lines? Or do you have some up close pics of the scavenge pump hook ups? Also, is the catch can necessary, or is that just an extra precaution(AKA is it worth it)? Thank you very much for taking the time to entertain my questions.

No problem man! The oil lines (for me) were by far the biggest pain in the ass... The good and bad thing was that I had a ton of random SS braided oil hose lines in my garage. I ended up using most of them and piecing my feed and return lines together with a bunch of different fittings. If I had not have had the SS lines, I would have probably just gone with some solid rubber lines from EVCO house of hose.

The only fitting I have written down for sure is the 3/8 - 18NPT that screws directly into the block, right next to the oil filter. Other than that, it was an assortment of hoses and expensive NPT fittings.

As far as the catch can goes... Honestly, I am not sure but I figured for an extra $25 it was worth it!
 
No problem man! The oil lines (for me) were by far the biggest pain in the ass... The good and bad thing was that I had a ton of random SS braided oil hose lines in my garage. I ended up using most of them and piecing my feed and return lines together with a bunch of different fittings. If I had not have had the SS lines, I would have probably just gone with some solid rubber lines from EVCO house of hose.

The only fitting I have written down for sure is the 3/8 - 18NPT that screws directly into the block, right next to the oil filter. Other than that, it was an assortment of hoses and expensive NPT fittings.

As far as the catch can goes... Honestly, I am not sure but I figured for an extra $25 it was worth it!
Width wise, what diameter hoses did you run, in my head it seems that he feed should be smaller than the return, but does it actually matter?
 
In a normal gravity drain chra the drain shout be 2x's bigger than the inlet but with a scavenge pump you outlet is under vacuum from the pump so you should be able to run the same size hose everywhere
 

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