Rear Speakers not working

Already

Hello guys, sorry to barge into this conversation. Another easy and hopefully a solution to this dilemma would be to reset your head unit, by unplugging the battery.

I tried disconnecting the hot side of battery for about maybe 10 mins. Hooked battery back up an samethang but why haven't my presets stuff been lost its all still there. Like today I pull head unit out an unplugged all hornest an plugged back n an same thing an all my presets still haven't changed. Don't understand why and how everything still set
 
I tried disconnecting the hot side of battery for about maybe 10 mins. Hooked battery back up an samethang but why haven't my presets stuff been lost its all still there. Like today I pull head unit out an unplugged all hornest an plugged back n an same thing an all my presets still haven't changed. Don't understand why and how everything still set

I'd recommend leaving it unplugged overnight, the capacitors need to drain - unless they have a battery inside the head-unit (I definitely do not recommend digging around looking for it). Either way I'd also recommend leaving everything the way it was and troubleshooting from square one, instead of possibly messing up the factory wiring harness. If you have the stereo out though, you should try to use a voltmeter and see if there is anything outputting on the rear speakers ( I believe that may have been mentioned already).
 
I tried disconnecting the hot side of battery for about maybe 10 mins. Hooked battery back up an samethang but why haven't my presets stuff been lost its all still there. Like today I pull head unit out an unplugged all hornest an plugged back n an same thing an all my presets still haven't changed. Don't understand why and how everything still set

For a master RESET to take place (which is what you're attempting) it takes a 'MINIMUM' of four hours for the temporary file cache/registry to opt for default!
 
...And as [MENTION=120209]tigger[/MENTION] stated earlier, if you were to disconnect the tailgate speakers you'd lose the tailgate and the rear (second row) speakers, as they're wired in series when the PM is inactive, and the rear second row is always disconnected when PM is active!

I also find it difficult to fathom burning out both the L & R rear channels simultaneously unless someone jumped the tail speakers to force the rear door speakers to run @ 4 ohms, and forgot not to turn on the PM switch; which would fry the rear amp immediately!!!
 
Price

Can someone tell how much it is for dash kit and wiring harness if I decide to replace head unit. I've heard the dash kit and wiring harness is very high dollar
 
Can someone tell how much it is for dash kit and wiring harness if I decide to replace head unit. I've heard the dash kit and wiring harness is very high dollar

It depends on your definition of "very high dollar". On Amazon, the wiring harness is around $7 and the dash kit is around $27.
 
Can someone tell how much it is for dash kit and wiring harness if I decide to replace head unit. I've heard the dash kit and wiring harness is very high dollar

Just go to 'Metra Online' and describe what you have and what you intend to install; metra harnesses are very affordable!
 
Removed

I have removed both rear door panels an tailgate panel and all plugs r plugged n an nobody has messed with any of the wiring. After I noticed no sound from rear I've taken out head unit an now rear panels. So what could I try while I got everything removed ?
 
On Crutchfield they are free with head unit purchase.

Hi tigger,

Crutchfield does through in the extra hardware with their HUs, but their retail markups are about 250% higher than Amazon and ebay; even the manufactures! What I do is, I'll search for the equipment I'm interested in on the Crutchfied site. Once I find what I'm looking for I'll simply go to amazon or ebay and purchase it there, I've saved thousands over the last three and a half years do it that way!

Best!
 
I have removed both rear door panels an tailgate panel and all plugs r plugged n an nobody has messed with any of the wiring. After I noticed no sound from rear I've taken out head unit an now rear panels. So what could I try while I got everything removed ?

That's really not the way to troubleshoot a problem because now you've disturbed/changed the condition that was causing the original trouble. If you don't see anything that looks unusual behind the HU, just put it all back together and start over. Modify your approach by running a series of methodical tests e.g., check the power the to HU; (there are two different fuses that feed the audio system) check the fader, check to see if the system mute is turned on (linked to the system voice command prompter)... I can almost guaranty that it's something small that was overlooked!

Cheers
 
Last edited:
What u mean exactly at the speakers ??

most likely the speaker coil is open . if these are in series all these rear speakers then each speaker need be removed and using an ohm meter check that the speaker has low ohms resistance .

4-16 ohms is what each speaker resistance should be . push the speaker cone in and see if the resistance holds.

I have had this occur esp. on door mounted speakers.
 
Hi tigger,

Crutchfield does through in the extra hardware with their HUs, but their retail markups are about 250% higher than Amazon and ebay; even the manufactures! What I do is, I'll search for the equipment I'm interested in on the Crutchfied site. Once I find what I'm looking for I'll simply go to amazon or ebay and purchase it there, I've saved thousands over the last three and a half years do it that way!

Best!

You need to be very careful when buying from Amazon, and even more on Ebay!

I bought my first Pioneer Avic-8100NEX through Amazon last year, had an issue with the head unit's GPS function after only a month of ownership. Tried to get tech support through Pioneer on it, they ultimately decided that the unit was broken and when they asked about the purchase, it was made perfectly clear that it was not warrantied through Amazon purchases. To verify this, check here:

Pioneer Car Audio Video Authorized Internet Dealers | Pioneer Electronics USA

Look through the list of UNAUTHORIZED sellers, Amazon is listed.

While you may be able to replace/return a defective unit, it will not be through Pioneer at all. I would also suggest getting an extended warranty through square trade if you do decide to buy through them.

I was lucky, as my unit was less than 30 days old when I contacted them, they refunded my money and sent for the unit via UPS. At the time, the cost was about 200 bucks less than Crutchfield's price, but the reality of not having any way to get the unit repaired under Pioneer's warranty was b.s. and I ended up replacing it with one from Crutchfield for a few hundred bucks more. At least I know Crutchfield will send out another unit asap if this one fails without any issue.

Ebay is even worse to buy through, as you really don't have any warranty whatsoever. Ebay makes it extremely hard to get your money refunded or unit replaced if it goes bad. You have to prove that it was not due to negligence on your part before they step up. Obviously, if its DOA, they'll take care of you, but 30+ days down the road? Good luck with that!
 
And for the other post about sound fading out then not playing, that sounds EXACTLY like a burnt amp!

When speaker coils are fried, they will pop and crackle as the cone floats in the magnet. If it has a break in the coil's wire, it will hit a spot where it just stops working completely, until you either overcome it with current (turn the volume up higher) or you physically move the diaphragm.

When it starts off softly, then fades out to nothing, that says blown amp. Turn key off, wait a minute or two, then turn on again, see if it does it again. If it does exactly the same thing, that's definitely a blown amp.

You can further check this if you have enough knowledge of car audio, and you're comfortable with wiring. Reading your comments, I would suggest you not do this yourself, as this would require intercepting the output from the head unit by pulling pins on the rear output connector and wiring up a speaker to the output to double-check for sound directly from the deck. While you could do this at a door or the hatch, this will not determine if there's still a short somewhere else. Wiring directly to the deck will immediately tell you whether the amp is good and its a wiring or speaker issue, of if the amp is bad and you need to repair or replace it.

Furthermore, if it is the amp, the next question would be why it blew! These systems are made to take abuse, otherwise you'd hear about tons of 4 runner head units being repaired at dealerships all the time! So, slapping in another head unit (they're cheap online, 150 ~ 250 for replacements) is not wise to do. Find the problem and fix that first.

I'm gonna go out on a limb here and guess that you like to play your music really loud, probably with the hatch open and blaring loud at a park or beach, right? Aside from blown speakers or a shorted wire somewhere in the vehicle, playing the stereo loud for hours at a time in an enclosed dash will eventually fry the amp, literally! There's no place for the heat to go in an enclosed dash, even if you have the windows opened. Sooner or later, it will burn the power transistors out, and it makes perfect sense that it would be the rear channel, as it has more load on the system (4 full range speakers for the 2 channel rear amp, vs. two speakers in the front doors and that capped tweeter-like speakers in the dash).
 
Blown speakers

Well it's the rear speakers r blown n tailgate I can push n on both speakers an they will play and let off an no sound. Didn't check the rear n door on driver side nor rear passenger will check them later but atleast I no it's the speakers an not factory head unit
 

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