Rear wheel bearing BS! Input appreciated

[kolelt]

I will upload photos and couple videos once I’m home. In the mean time I’ll try to explain it in words.

Over the weekend both rear wheel bearings were replaced. All the parts were OEM from camelback Toyota. The concern that I have is this. The wheel bearing had do resistance when pressing into the bearing housing. It even had tendency to fall out once flipped upside down to press the axle in along with the color. Is that normal?

Also, once everything was pressed in. As in the abs ring with the retainer flipped. The wheel bearing had a tendency to walk out of the bearing housing. But everything was pressed in and I fallowed Tim video step by step.

Also the OEM bearing had play side to side. And this is brand new bearing.

Once everything was completed and bolted to the housing. I noticed if you hit the tire. You can hear something rattling inside the drum. The wheel it self was tightened by lug nuts. It actually has some small side to side play.

Could this be that the bearing retainer that is pressed into the back plate is messed up? Although I don’t know why it would be messed up?!? And causing the bearing to have play inside the cup? Or the backing plate moving around the bearing cup it self? Like I said. I’ll upload a couple videos soon. But this is really bothering me. Because everything is oem. The driver side backing plate got replaced by a oem. Minus the wheel bearing retainer cup.

Or could it be that the first retainer needs to be pressed in more? The one that sits next to the bearing.? Although I was able to put the snap ring on. As in the outer rib was pressed below where the snap ring goes. Does it need to pressed in more ?

 

[nissanh]

YES "Also the OEM bearing had play side to side. And this is brand new bearing"
This play is normal on all toyota OEM wheel bearings (or at least the hilux and Hiace that I have dealt in the past). Once the bearing goes into the axle you still can feel a slight play side to side but NEVER up and down. [If you use an aftermarket even a koyo bearing will spin tightly after driving into the axle shaft. Aftermarket bearings will have no side to side play before the installation]

The play you feel when pushing/pulling at 12 O clock position on rear wheel is something I have observed too. A simple 3/4 wide bearing holding 3 feet of metal shaft can wiggle a bit. The other end of the axle shaft is not 100% tight fit to the spider wheel so expect a slight play there.

 

[kolelt]

https://youtu.be/qpzIgwv29Lw
This is the play side to side I’m talking about.

https://youtu.be/PPG2QuZ8ouk
This is the rattle !


https://youtu.be/8XrD1Au2tyA

 

[kolelt]

How much should the first retainer be pressed in. Obviously below where the snap ring goes. But I’m wondering if the bearing moving up and down in the bearing cup has to do with that there isn’t enough pressure between the axle and the first retainer ?

 

[nevada]

play at the backing plate when its not bolted onto the axle is normal.
the bearing dropping in/out of the backing plate is also normal.

the first retainer needs to be pressed down against the bearing. so, as far as it will go.

 

[kolelt]

play at the backing plate when its not bolted onto the axle is normal.
the bearing dropping in/out of the backing plate is also normal.

the first retainer needs to be pressed down against the bearing. so, as far as it will go.

Question is, how far is enough. With a 20 ton press. It’s very easy to damage something. Even though I’m below the snap ring grove.

Also wtf is that noise when hitting the tires !??!

 

[mtbtim]

#1 - The bearing is not a press fit at all into the bearing case. I mention this in a pinned comment for the video.

#2 - The brand new OEM bearings have some play. This is normal.

#3 - When pressing the axle into the bearing, you know you're done when you feel the press load up and there's no more movement. You confirm it's fully seated by pulling the axle off the shaft and seeing that the snap ring groove is fully exposed and you can get the snap ring installed.

#4 - As for the noise you're getting when smacking the tire, that could be brake parts rattling, possibly the shoes bouncing against the back plate because they aren't under any tension. Was the parking brake set when you were doing this? If not, try setting the brake and then see if it's still making noise.

 

[nevada]

with a 30 ton press I go TIGHT. if you are pressing it correctly, all the pressure is on the inner race. you wont hurt anything.

as said above, the noise may be in the brakes. there are a bunch of springs in there. set the park brake and see if it still makes noise.

 

[kolelt]

Ok I’m going to try the ebrake and see if I get the rattle noise. What gets me very curious as to how the wheel vibrates when smacked. Like a spring.

Tell me, when the first retainer that goes up against the bearing was pressed. It wasnt 100% flush with the c-clip grove. However the c-clip fit without any issues. I would say the metal retainer was a hair above the c-clip bottom grove. Closest to the bearing.

 

[mtbtim]

Ok I’m going to try the ebrake and see if I get the rattle noise. What gets me very curious as to how the wheel vibrates when smacked. Like a spring.

Tell me, when the first retainer that goes up against the bearing was pressed. It wasnt 100% flush with the c-clip grove. However the c-clip fit without any issues. I would say the metal retainer was a hair above the c-clip bottom grove. Closest to the bearing.

As long as when you were pressing you hit significant resistance and the press loaded up without any further movement, you got the axle fully seated into the bearing and got the outer retainer properly installed on the axle shaft.

 

[kolelt]

As long as when you were pressing you hit significant resistance and the press loaded up without any further movement, you got the axle fully seated into the bearing and got the outer retainer properly installed on the axle shaft.

I’m afraid I have to press more. With that said. The abs ring and seal retainer will have to be pressed out again. I should be able to re use those ? They are brand new minus that they have been pressed on one time.

 

[Nate_GB]

I’m afraid I have to press more. With that said. The abs ring and seal retainer will have to be pressed out again. I should be able to re use those ? They are brand new minus that they have been pressed on one time.

If you have the proper setup to press them off, you can reuse them. I usually hit the axle and the inside of any components I plan on pressing on again with some scotchbrite or something to remove any burrs.

As others have said, retainer closest to the bearing should be pressed until tight against the bearing.

 

[mtbtim]

I’m afraid I have to press more. With that said. The abs ring and seal retainer will have to be pressed out again. I should be able to re use those ? They are brand new minus that they have been pressed on one time.

You can absolutely reuse them if you pull them off. You actually could have reused your original ABS tone rings and all 4 retainers saving yourself around $150 based off online pricing. I discuss this potential savings in the video description. I've reused the ABS tone rings and retainers on many sets of axles saving the people I've helped a decent chunk of change. It's a waste of money to buy new tone rings and retainers.

 

[kolelt]

I appreciate the info and the help guys. If I recall, the first retainer is up against the bearing. Which clears the c clip grove. However I feel like because the wheel bearing housing allows in and out play. Maybe this indicates that it has not pressed enough. As in, the axle/bearing/retainer. So far everything has been put together but not driven on the road.

 

[kolelt]

So pressed of the abs ring and retainer, removed the c-clip. Tried pressing the retainer more. Put down some serious force. I can't say i maxed out the jack. But I also cannot say that it moved. Looks like where it was before.

Although i did notice less movement one it was installed into the housing. The other side has a little play, feels almost as if the rim is not tight but the lug nuts are tight! Not sure how much more force is needed, if any needed at all.

 

[kolelt]

#1 - The bearing is not a press fit at all into the bearing case. I mention this in a pinned comment for the video.

#2 - The brand new OEM bearings have some play. This is normal.

#3 - When pressing the axle into the bearing, you know you're done when you feel the press load up and there's no more movement. You confirm it's fully seated by pulling the axle off the shaft and seeing that the snap ring groove is fully exposed and you can get the snap ring installed.

#4 - As for the noise you're getting when smacking the tire, that could be brake parts rattling, possibly the shoes bouncing against the back plate because they aren't under any tension. Was the parking brake set when you were doing this? If not, try setting the brake and then see if it's still making noise.

in your video you say," make sure you get the bearing seated all the way into the bearing retainer cup". But it has a tendency to walk out a little when you flip everything up side down to press the first retainer.....

 

[mtbtim]

in your video you say," make sure you get the bearing seated all the way into the bearing retainer cup". But it has a tendency to walk out a little when you flip everything up side down to press the first retainer.....

When I'm doing the press work, I hold the axle shaft parallel to the ground and slide the backing plate with the new bearing installed into the case onto the shaft. Then, I get the outer retainer and SST in place, rotate it vertical and get it on the press. Having a second set of hands is helpful getting it set up onto the press. If you do it like this, you won't dislodge the bearing very much. If it moves a little, it's not a big deal because once the axle and outer retainer are fully pressed on, you can reseat the bearing into the case by popping the splined axle shaft end into a piece of wood on the ground. A gentle pop is all that's needed.

Before you perform your grease test, you'll want to make sure the bearing is fully seated so you get an accurate test. When the axle is bolted up to the axle housing and torqued to spec, it guarantees the bearing is fully seated in the case.

 

[kolelt]

When I'm doing the press work, I hold the axle shaft parallel to the ground and slide the backing plate with the new bearing installed into the case onto the shaft. Then, I get the outer retainer and SST in place, rotate it vertical and get it on the press. Having a second set of hands is helpful getting it set up onto the press. If you do it like this, you won't dislodge the bearing very much. If it moves a little, it's not a big deal because once the axle and outer retainer are fully pressed on, you can reseat the bearing into the case by popping the splined axle shaft end into a piece of wood on the ground. A gentle pop is all that's needed.

Before you perform your grease test, you'll want to make sure the bearing is fully seated so you get an accurate test. When the axle is bolted up to the axle housing and torqued to spec, it guarantees the bearing is fully seated in the case.

It’s just I don’t see how I can have control of the bearing not walking out a little out of the bearing housing. Even though, when pressing the axle shaft and the first retainer. Wouldn’t the retainer push the bearing back into the bearing housing ? Does my photo look good in your eyes ? I used a good amount of force. But I did not “max“ out the 20t jack.

When performing the grease the test. I bolted the axle to the housing.

 

[kolelt]

If the bearing it self moves up and down in the bearing housing. Shouldn’t the first retainer push the bearing back? All the way into the bearing housing ?

 

[Nate_GB]

If the bearing it self moves up and down in the bearing housing. Shouldn’t the first retainer push the bearing back? All the way into the bearing housing ?

Yes.
What part number is your bearing? Should be 90363-40068 right?
As long as the bearing is pressed all the way into the bearing pocket/housing and the retainer is pressed snugly against the inner race of the bearing, it should be done right. How are you setting everything up in the press? Do you have a photo?