rear window key switch

[wallytoo]

i've read dozens of threads here about rear window issues on the 1st gen. i haven't come across one that specifically relates to how to remove the key switch to replace it.

the console switch works, and the key switch works to close the window, but not to open it. no solenoid clicks when turned to the right. i've used the jumper test to operate the console switch without the iginition on, and that works, but even with jumpers, the key switch still won't open the window.

so, it's either the switch itself, or the wire to the switch. but, since i haven't been able to remove the lock cylinder, i can't really test it.

hoping for a few hints. yes, the rear panels have been removed, i have about as good access as i can get to the rear workings. however, i don't want to break off the outside license plate/key switch setup by forcing something.

thanks,

wally

 

[Pyroboy]

You can put the window up with the tailgate open and take a look around, even pull the glass out. Lower the gate then 'close' the latches before running the glass up with the switch. Make sure to support it! I can't remember if that helps expose the switch but it might. Check the FSM too.

 

[RAD4Runner]

the console switch works... and the key switch works to close the window, but not to open it. no solenoid clicks when turned to the right.
...jumper test to operate the console switch without the iginition on... and that works, but even with jumpers, the key switch still won't open the window.

so, it's either the switch itself, or the wire to the switch. but, since i haven't been able to remove the lock cylinder, i can't really test it.

Verify before taking things apart.

Console switch circuit is different from rear key switch circuit. Relay logic are also slightly different between the two. Gotta check your schematic. IF your schematic is same as 1986's...
Schematic is here (1986-1988, 22R-E):

Rear Window/Wiper Control relay is here:

Relay terminals 11 (blue with White stripe = OPEN) & 12 (Blue with Black stripe = CLOSE) connect to tailgate key switch. All the tailgate key-switch does is connect either 11 or 12 to ground to open or close window.

Trace these wires to where it's convenient to tap into them:

(Based on original post, connecting blue wire with black stripe (12=UP) to chassis ground should close window.)

Connect blue with white stripe (terminal 11 = DOWN = OPEN) to ground.

1. If this opens the window, then your relay is good, and either key switch is really bad OR wire from terminal 11 is not connected to it.
   
2. If this does not open the window, then it's possible that one side of your relay is bad, or that wire is not connected to your relay properly

While you're already in there, why not add switches so you can close and open the rear window from inside the rear deck, while camping in there, without having to crawl over the seats to turn IGN on?

 

[wallytoo]

rad4,

thanks for the answer. i believe i understand how to confirm whether the relay works. i was working from the correct schematic, and jumped the terminals between the console switch and key switch, which allowed the console switch to work without the ignition "on". this had no effect on the key switch, as it still wouldn't lower the window.

however, as i understand your post, if i ground the correct terminal at the relay, the window should open as though it were being "keyed", which would verify the relay works, and thus either the wiring is an issue between the relay and switch, or the switch is an issue. i'll have to pull the side panel again, but at least there aren't any rear seats to move.

i'll report back results.

wally

 

[RAD4Runner]

rad4,

thanks for the answer. i believe i understand how to confirm whether the relay works. i was working from the correct schematic, and jumped the terminals between the console switch and key switch, which allowed the console switch to work without the ignition "on". this had no effect on the key switch, as it still wouldn't lower the window.

however, as i understand your post, if i ground the correct terminal at the relay, the window should open as though it were being "keyed", which would verify the relay works, and thus either the wiring is an issue between the relay and switch, or the switch is an issue. i'll have to pull the side panel again, but at least there aren't any rear seats to move.

i'll report back results.

wally

Sounds good. Good luck.

 

[wallytoo]

grounding the #11 wire (blue/white) causes the window to open (correctly), so the relay works. i thought that it did, because i assumed the relay to open the window is the same for the key switch and the console switch, with the key switch always having power, and the console only having power when the ignition is on, but both using the same relay.

anywho, i uncoupled the connector inside the tailgate (5-wire/6-prong), and used jumpers to ground the correct wires. doing so resulted in the window being able to close, but not open. thus, there appears to be either a broken wire or grounded wire between the couple and the relay/terminal. i'll run a test wire from the relay to the connector and try the switch when i get that set up to verify that the switch itself works.

again, thanks rad4r for the information and logic process to make this work.

wally

 

[RAD4Runner]

grounding the #11 wire (blue/white) causes the window to open (correctly), so the relay works. i thought that it did, because i assumed the relay to open the window is the same for the key switch and the console switch, with the key switch always having power, and the console only having power when the ignition is on, but both using the same relay.

Relay contacts to the motor may be same, but input signals to logic are probably different (different pins). There has to be power from IGN to Circuit Breaker (on side of fuseblock behind driver-side kick panel) in order for console switch logic to go active. Furthermore:

• For console side, both window lock switch and top-off switch could interrupt path to ground.
• For key switch, only top-off switch interrupts path to ground.

i uncoupled the connector inside the tailgate (5-wire/6-prong), and used jumpers to ground the correct wires. doing so resulted in the window being able to close, but not open. thus, there appears to be either a broken wire or grounded wire between the couple and the relay/terminal. i'll run a test wire from the relay to the connector and try the switch when i get that set up to verify that the switch itself works.

again, thanks rad4r for the information and logic process to make this work.
wally

Cool
Should be pretty simple. Easy to trace the wires from rear window control relay to that connector. Once you're done troubleshooting, while you have the wire loom peeled, might as well add window control from inside rear-deck. All you need are:

• Momentary SPDT, center-off switch,
• Single-Pole Single-Throw switch
• Some wire

Happy Memorial Day Weekend. OOORAAAH!

 

[wallytoo]

final update on rear window key switch.

i finally had a chance to work on the wiring for the tailgate key switch (it has been pretty much non-stop rain here for the last month-plus). i cut out the "window down" wire in the tailgate section of the harness, and replaced it completely. the window now operates as it is supposed to, and opens/closes using the key switch in the tailgate.

thanks again to rad4r for his info.

wally

 

[RAD4Runner]

Cool! Glad it Works Now!

final update on rear window key switch.

i finally had a chance to work on the wiring for the tailgate key switch (it has been pretty much non-stop rain here for the last month-plus). i cut out the "window down" wire in the tailgate section of the harness, and replaced it completely. the window now operates as it is supposed to, and opens/closes using the key switch in the tailgate.

thanks again to rad4r for his info.

wally

Cool, Dude!

 

[johnderek]

Great Info! Hopefully you can shed some light on my issue. My 86 didn't have the center console in when I bought it. The window switch was missing from the console. I purchased another on Ebay and hooked back up matching all wire colors with vehicle side. After doing so, I heard a clicking under the dash and my key switch for back window at the tailgate stopped working. I checked the circuit breaker at the fuse panel, and it's good. What else should I check? I know the motor works to the window because I can raise and lower with 12v

 

[AuSeeker]

So I have a 2019 (5th gen) 4Runner, my liftgate window has worked both from the console switch and by turning the rear key in the lock since I bought it. Approximately one month ago the window stopped working when using the key but it still works by using the switch in the console. I have the Carrista and double checked the hidden features, everything is fine there. I also have a BlueDriver so I checked for codes, I did get one that read “B2312 - ON SWITCH FAILURE”, upon further checking on that it appears that code is usually referenced to a bad window motor or regulator but I find that hard to believe since it works fine from the console switch. I did notice this stopped working shortly after getting the car washed. Any ideas for repairs? I have been leaning towards a liftgate key switch but they aren’t cheap so I figured I would ask you gurus first!

You have a 5th Gen, you need to ask these questions in the 5th Gen forum get any help from those that know the 5th Gen technology better!!

 

[fourwd1]

You have a 5th Gen, you need to ask these questions in the 5th Gen forum get any help from those that know the 5th Gen technology better!!

[MENTION=512273]Celltender[/MENTION],
[MENTION=149207]AuSeeker[/MENTION] is correct.

I have moved your post and created a new thread in the 5th Gen section for you here

 

[Project SR5 614]

One side of mine tailgate open sensor is what causes both my rear window and wiper, light was out on dash, but it had sat, I got to push on the driver side of it for them to work cause it’s rusted on the tailgate, u have any rust issues? It could cause a blocked ground