Rear window problem

HunterQc

New member
Hi Guys!

I’m in the middle of a road trip with my 4Runner, it's snowing as hell and my rear windows jamed half open! When I try to close it with the switch next to the driver's seat, I hear a sound, probably the rear window motor, but nothing happening. The window stay open. Any ideas how to fix this?

Thanks for your help!
David
 
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I'd pull the rear panel so you could get in there and try and help it up. At least you might have a shot of getting it to go up as a temp fix.
 
I'd pull the rear panel so you could get in there and try and help it up. At least you might have a shot of getting it to go up as a temp fix.

Thanks for your help! Do you mean the little panel 2’’ x 4’’ in the middle? I opened it but I saw nothing?
 
Hi Guys!



I’m in the middle of a road trip with my 4Runner, it's snowing as hell and my rear windows jamed half open! When I try to close it with the switch next to the driver's seat, I hear a sound, probably the rear window motor, but nothing happening. The window stay open. Any ideas how to fix this?



Thanks for your help!

David



If you don’t have any tools, large clear plastic garbage bag and some duct tape until you get somewhere you can work on it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
If you don’t have any tools, large clear plastic garbage bag and some duct tape until you get somewhere you can work on it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah, good idea. Mission impossible in a Mcdo parking with no tools. First I thought the wiper was not in the right place but it looks fine.
 
Look at the glass and see if it is even (same distance up on each side) and if it looks like it's still in the track. You may be able to help it up by pulling up on the glass while someone operates the switch. It may help to go down a little first - then up. Also check to see tracks are clear - don't force things.
 
Look at the glass and see if it is even (same distance up on each side) and if it looks like it's still in the track. You may be able to help it up by pulling up on the glass while someone operates the switch. It may help to go down a little first - then up. Also check to see tracks are clear - don't force things.

Thanks, it was exactly like that. I’m not sure the distance is the same each side but I pulled up the glass, insert 3 credit cards to prevent him from going down and I ram to my truck to operate de switch. Instead of 1 foot it is now 3 inch.

The problem is the glass not in the track?
 
I found this video! I think it will be very usefull and I hope I will have fewer parts to remove.

I think I need to:

1- Open a beer, just one
2- Remove the ruber pieces around the glass
3- Remove the glass.
4- Open the rear panel, the speaker and maybe few other parts
5- Check the rails and the mechanisms, clean them if necessary.
6- Re-install the glass
7- Check the rails and the mechanisms to be sure the glass is at the right place
8- Not sur at this time if I will be able to test if I can pull up the glass with the switch but I will try.
9- Re-install parts, panel, ruber
10 Try the switch, enjoy the view of my glass pulling up, shed a tear and open a beer.
 
Rear window rust defrost

Hi , I’m new here and hope someone can help.
My rear window mechanism rusted out and the window won’t go back up on its own. I forced it up and clamped it there but now my rear defrost won’t work (neither does the wiper). Does anyone know how to make the defrost work? I’m not too concerned about the window going up and down at this point.

I took the cover off hoping to find some sort of switch but….

2010 4Runner
 
There is a switch that is closed by the window when it's all the way up. The closing of this switch is what allows the rear wiper to work. The window can appear to be all the way up; but not be. There have been a few threads about this; as the switch is pretty sensitive. The defroster function may also be tied to this as well.
 
Seems like I'm in this same boat with my 2016.

The rear window has always been slow in the winter, but over the past year or so it's been somewhat sluggish even in the summer. This morning though (-17ºC here) I accidentally hit the down button while driving and it wouldn't go back up. Tried from inside and outside, no luck. The only way I could get it to roll back up was pull the button on the console, it moved an inch or so... wait 2-3 minutes, pull the button again... another inch or so... wait...

I'm guessing the grease on the mechanism is frozen, or at the very least thickened up, to a point that prevents it from moving correctly. I'll have to get it into my shop garage as soon as possible and pull the rear panel, clean up the mechanism, maybe re-grease it with something very light and temperature resistant?
 
Replace the motor/regulator?

Anyone have insights on replacing the motor or regulator on the rear lift gate? The cables on mine seem to have gotten bound around the motor and the rest of it is pretty heavily rusted. Figure if I’m going to dissect it, might as well replace it.
 
Anyone have insights on replacing the motor or regulator on the rear lift gate? The cables on mine seem to have gotten bound around the motor and the rest of it is pretty heavily rusted. Figure if I’m going to dissect it, might as well replace it.

It's not horrible to do, you can either tape the glass in the Up position after you unbolt it from the regulator; though if I remember right I ended up having to remove it completely to get enough room to work in the door last one I did (it's been a year or so). Removing the glass will require unbolting the spoiler assembly from the door and removing the plastic trim on the left and right side of the door, it's a bit of a tedious affair, but doable.

As for the regulator itself, it's not clearly stated in the instructions, but you have to kinda fold and unfold it in and out of the hatch opening to get it to go in properly; it's a bit of trial and error so take a picture before you remove it so you can get a rough idea how it goes back together.

I would also make sure you have a new regulator and a motor, it's possible the cables could have burned out the motor or shortened it's life by overheating it (should be protected, but old vehicles and all that). I would also highly recommend replacing at least the exterior belt moulding that goes on the hatch and seals with window and interior of the rear hatch as that will lessen the likelihood of debris, moisture, and such getting in and gumming up your cables again (at least for a while... it's an often overlooked item that I am sure is very brittle/poorly sealing on many 4Runners after a while).
 
Rear window

Be careful with duct tape. My wife broke ours and I taped plastic over it. When i removed the tape it left a mark on the facing.
 
My rear window was smashed in by some a*hole who stole my wife's bags last week. Safelite repaired the window but now it goes up really slowly and sometimes will drop down a few inches before going back up. The installer managed to mess up the bolt for the wiper so I have to go back in once they get the replacement for that. Hopefully they'll figure out why it is going up slowly.
 
My rear window was smashed in by some a*hole who stole my wife's bags last week. Safelite repaired the window but now it goes up really slowly and sometimes will drop down a few inches before going back up. The installer managed to mess up the bolt for the wiper so I have to go back in once they get the replacement for that. Hopefully they'll figure out why it is going up slowly.

I would have them inspect the regulator assembly carefully and the attachment point on the glass. Either a bolt fell out or the glued on mount pulled off would be my first two guesses after the regulator not being reinstalled right. (Can you grab the glass and move it up or down any significant amount if the window is like half way open? )
 
Seems like I'm in this same boat with my 2016.

The rear window has always been slow in the winter, but over the past year or so it's been somewhat sluggish even in the summer. This morning though (-17ºC here) I accidentally hit the down button while driving and it wouldn't go back up. Tried from inside and outside, no luck. The only way I could get it to roll back up was pull the button on the console, it moved an inch or so... wait 2-3 minutes, pull the button again... another inch or so... wait...



I'm guessing the grease on the mechanism is frozen, or at the very least thickened up, to a point that prevents it from moving correctly. I'll have to get it into my shop garage as soon as possible and pull the rear panel, clean up the mechanism, maybe re-grease it with something very light and temperature resistant?

Mine has been slow recently, last night I rolled it down 14" or so and then it did as RaceAdddict's did, would go up with help from me about an inch or so, wait, etc. Took about 10 minutes to get it all the way up.
Motor, grease?? Seals? Appears door is on the track as it's level.
 
Mine has been slow recently, last night I rolled it down 14" or so and then it did as RaceAdddict's did, would go up with help from me about an inch or so, wait, etc. Took about 10 minutes to get it all the way up.
Motor, grease?? Seals? Appears door is on the track as it's level.

I replaced the motor and regulator a few months ago. had the slow window in the cold weather and kept getting slower. you can try greasing the tracks, silicone lube, etc. but that will only be temporary. the regulator and/or motor are going bad. there's a very small chance the issue you are having is old grease build up but if it's 5+ years old and you've used that window a lot it's time to replace parts

after new motor and regulator that window flies up and down. even well below freezing the window moves fast like new. parts are expensive and the labor is a few hours if you bring it to toyota, but if you use the back window a lot it's a repair you're going to have to do at some point. my advice is if you're going to open up that back panel yourself of pay someone to do it might as well do motor and regulator at the same time if they are original and your rig is on the older side. my factory rear motor and regulator lasted 11 years... not too bad, and I think the motor was fine, just the regulator had enough
 
Thanks, guess I’ll try and pull it apart and grease and inspect and replace stuff. Are there any good videos tha anyone recommends watching to see what to send not to do?
Thanks,
Jon
 

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