Rear wiper and dash window switch inoperative

[Qyota]

First - yes, I've searched, and tried the suggested fixes. So far, no dice.

The problem: The rear window switch on the dash does not actuate the window down or up. I know the window motor works, because the key in the tailgate will actuate the window down and up, fully. The window is all the way up, and the switch that checks this (yes, there is a switch, it's not "memory") seems to be fine. I checked the switch by unplugging it, then trying the washer fluid switch. No fluid. Plugged the switch back in, fluid pumps just fine. So, I think the "window is fully closed" switch is fine.

So, there's the dash-mounted rear window switch issue.

Then there's the rear wiper issue. The stalk switch does not actuate the rear wiper, but the washer fluid setting works fine. Does this point to a dead wiper motor, or something in the dash or stalk that is loose or broken? I'm thinking the latter, since wiper motors so rarely go bad.

Wiring between the door and body seems fine, no obvious signs of damage, and all other functions at the rear door work (lock, unlock, window motor, license plate lights, window-up check switch)...so I'm not inclined to think there is anything wrong with the wiring.

Any suggestions? I guess my next chore is to take the dash apart and try to look for anything obvious. Lotsa fun when it's 10 degrees! :frusty:

 

[Fireblade]

Ideally one would like to have a DVOM handy. Or in the very least a test light. You could then test to make sure you are getting power to the switch itself, and if so, see if that power is making it's way through the switch and on toward the back in the rest of the circuit.

I've seen some stalks lose some functionality while retaining others but most of the time the stalk itself is pretty loose and has a lot of wear and tear on it.

My suggestion (as far as the switch goes) before ripping a part our steering column is just make sure you are getting power to the switch if you are sure (and it sounds like you are) that everything in the back is OK. If you're not, you know the problem is ahead of that in the circuit. If you are but it's not coming out of the switch, you can be pretty sure that's your problem.

 

[Brique]

Ok stupid question, but you have the ignition all the way at least to acc, right? If it's just "on" it won't work. I'm sure you've taken that into account but i figured I'd ask since I've had a few "what the hell why isn't it working, oh right that's why" moments with that.

 

[TheDurk]

Honestly, I can't think of a single fail point that would cause what you are seeing. Does rear Defroster work?

So I guess you have to trace them as indpendent problems. I'd focus on the window issue, starting at the dash switch, and working towards the back. Don't forget to verify all ground points.

In any case, here is the EWD for that circuit. It's the 2002, but '99 was identical in my 1999 paper EWD.

 

[Qyota]

Brique - yes, ignition on, or truck running, same result.

Fireblade - That's likely the next step. I need to scrounge up a few pins to jab into the molex connectors, and whip out the DVOM.

It's just interesting to me that both of these things happened at or very near the same time...sometime this past spring. Makes me think it's not the switches. You'd think I would have figured it out during the very pleasant summer we had. But no...now it's winter and now I'm missing my wiper! D'oh!

Speaking of the dash window switch - it lights up when the headlights are on, so I know at least the lights are getting power. That doesn't mean anything for the switch itself, I realize.

 

[Qyota]

Thanks Durk, I was afraid you'd say that!

Haven't been able to test the rear defroster...the truck is garaged overnight, and it hasn't been frosty lately. Would that lead you to think something else?

 

[Qyota]

Tried the rear defroster this morning, and I don't think it worked. Hard to tell, because the back window is coated in salt. The light in the button came on, and then shut off like it's supposed to after 10 minutes or so. I wonder if there is a common ground these two circuits use that is loose or corroded?

 

[Qyota]

Finally got around to looking at the wire bundle going from the body to the gate. Sure enough, one small yellow wire was completely broken. A heavier-gauge blue wire was starting to split, but the wire itself looked OK. I repaired the yellow wire, taped everything, and buttoned it back up. Rear wiper and window work as normal now. Strange fail point for a toyota...

 

[Frontier719]

When I bought my 4Runner, the rear wiper fluid switch would spray the fluid inside the car :sniper:

I dropped all the plastic molding and the tube had dry rot. Now my rear defroster doesn't work--the light in the switch works as normal but does not defrost. I wonder if my problem is just a broken wire too. I'll have to check this afternoon.

Have you been able to test if this repaired your defroster as well?

 

[Qyota]

Have not been able to test, but it's the first place I'd check, now that I know. My truck is garaged, so the rear window is rarely frosty. Good luck!

 

[AZ4Running]

You had the same issue i did, mine was 2 dromen wires coming threw the hatch as well. Took me a bit to figure it out.