In my dreams, but I wouldn't put it in this 4runner, it's not worthy. 4.7 swap would be nice, but I don't currently have the space or tools.
Rebuild 5VZ-FE's?
- Thread starter rediranch
- Start date
Not yet I have been super busy working on other people cars that need fixing! My head and block are still waiting to be installed and finish putting back together. I wanted to have this done already but making side work has been super busy. I promise I will post pics.
BrianSD_42
New member
Frankly I don't see a lot of people on here rebuilding these engines and I don't believe it can be done very easily, even by a moderately competent person unless they have precision tools that are calibrated and the person doing the work is knowledgeable in Toyota documentation and processes. You can't just wing it.
Also, what is a rebuild? What do you consider a rebuild on this engine? Top, bottom?
Also, what is a rebuild? What do you consider a rebuild on this engine? Top, bottom?
I would consider a rebuild like any other, re ring the pistons and have the cylinders machined, replace stuff that needs replaced, rebuild/machine heads.
I'm going to do a compression test on mine because my problem is valve stem seals and I think the block is fine. Really just need to pull heads and rebuild.
Probably more effective to just get a JDM to swap though.
I just did a rebuild of both heads on mine. 2 of the valves had a nice chunk missing and a couple of others were paper thin. Machine work: Hot tank, resurface and valve job on both heads was $314 from a local machine shop that does the machine work for one of the Toyota dealerships nearby. I was in a very similar spot to you in that I was unsure of what to do. If your time is worth an monetary figure to you, I'd say you'll probably spend a little more time, and ultimately more money on the JDM swap. From what I hear there is a fair bit of the auxiliary components that need to be rearranged. Of course it is all on a case by case basis, how much time is worth to you. Do you have a cherry picker and engine stand already? Do you have some mean extensions and do-hicky's to get to the bell housing bolts and those sorts of things. It was far more cost effective for me personally to rebuild both of the heads. I was treated with cylinder walls that still had cross-hatching. I lucked out. There are a few pertinent details to watch out for if you go with the rebuild, just like any other project.
Hope this helps, feel free to message me if you care.
Matt
Philbush1127
New member
something with the way the overhead cams and valves makes these motors cylinder heads difficult to rebuilt if not impossible to do it correctly and completely. i personally got a STEAL on my engine from a junk yard 105k miles long block for 650$ cash. so much easier to just put a new motor in
tx_shooter
New member
My Dad ran a Jasper rebuild about 10 years ago for almost two full years before it dropped a valve. Last week I was getting quotes for a transmission rebuild and a friend quoted me a Jasper transmission. They swear they are great transmissions and will take anything you can throw at them. Then I mentioned I have a supercharger on my 4R and Jasper immediately said that was not covered under warranty.
So take it for what it is worth; but I do not have enough spare time and cash to mess around with Jasper.
So take it for what it is worth; but I do not have enough spare time and cash to mess around with Jasper.
Sorry guys, bad news for others, good for me.
Seems the compression tester from Autozone was wrong, while I have not retested it, the engine is acting like a 3.4 (with 200K miles) should, now.
Chased the misfire through fuel cleaner (Seafoam), spark plugs, wires, coils, and finally replaced the #4 injector. Used to be if you got on the gas pedal it would start running bad and throw a code. Now it is responding well.
Looks like I'll be able to put off that rebuild for a while (fingers crossed).
Seems the compression tester from Autozone was wrong, while I have not retested it, the engine is acting like a 3.4 (with 200K miles) should, now.
Chased the misfire through fuel cleaner (Seafoam), spark plugs, wires, coils, and finally replaced the #4 injector. Used to be if you got on the gas pedal it would start running bad and throw a code. Now it is responding well.
Looks like I'll be able to put off that rebuild for a while (fingers crossed).
Scramble
New member
You have to be realistic when you go with a rebuild.
My 3RZ was rebuild by someone I trust & I dont expect it to go over 100,000 miles. Since I only put 4000 miles a year on it I'm ok with that.
I also rented a compression tester from Autozone that was giving me false readings. I will never ever rely on one of them again.
DreadPirateJon
New member
I know this is reviving an old thread, but im currently debating whether to rebuild my mill or by a new one.
Looking at prices it looks like either way ill end up spending about 1500 total. I am leaning towards a rebuild so i know everything is good, but I keep seeing in these threads people saying these engine are hard to rebuild. Is there something about them that makes them harder to rebuild then other engines of similar vintage?
Looking at prices it looks like either way ill end up spending about 1500 total. I am leaning towards a rebuild so i know everything is good, but I keep seeing in these threads people saying these engine are hard to rebuild. Is there something about them that makes them harder to rebuild then other engines of similar vintage?
Joelzy
New member
Now i haven't fired mine up yet so i should probably not comment yet, but here goes.
This is my first full rebuild ever and though i made some mistakes and had to backtrack a bit in certain areas, the rebuild itself wasn't bad at all.
Its a lot of overthinking as i was scared to death that i was going to forget something but the work itself isn't all that hard. If i had been the one to pull the motor from the car in the first place and know everything's place it would have been a million times easier than me guessing and having to research constantly only to realize the PO left 2wd, Tacoma parts on the motor.
I think a lot of the comments about rebuilds being subpar lean toward the use of aftermarket parts in the important places. I used OE parts up to the intake plenum(including sensors that were stupid expensive) and while it costs a good bit to do so, i'm planning on not having to crack this thing back open anytime soon.
After i saw inside the heads of the "60K mile" JDM replacement that came with my 4R i knew i needed to rebuild, so if you do think about buying one, i would at least pull off the passenger side valve cover first to make sure you aren't diving into the pudding factory that i was.
DreadPirateJon
New member
Thanks,
I've rebuilt 7Ms (Mark III Supras) before and from what I see externally on the 5VZ it really doesnt look that different.I really think the piece of mind of knowing that the engine is practically brand new and that I was the one who did all of the work really is the way to go.
I've rebuilt 7Ms (Mark III Supras) before and from what I see externally on the 5VZ it really doesnt look that different.I really think the piece of mind of knowing that the engine is practically brand new and that I was the one who did all of the work really is the way to go.
Stiffmeister
New member
I have a 5VZ that made it to 303k miles. Approximately 160k of those miles were with a supercharger, 2.2" pulley and the 305cc six injector plus PCU setup from URD.
Near the end of it's life, I for sure had ping and problems with a constant check engine light. I pulled the motor and discovered that most of my top rings were compressed. I've discovered you cannot always get super driving through Baja California.
People say that these motors are difficult but I disagree. It's just the same as any motor but I had a local machine shop grind crank, order correct main/rod bearings, check block/heads for flat, replace with all new valves, valve seals (same springs) and he also made did a valve adjustment. Total cost including .020 boring was $1600 from machine shop (ouch). However, if you want to ensure it's done right then you don't really have another choice.
The rest of it is pretty easy. I used the online manual here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4...4NjUtYjk1Y2ZiNjMxMTFk/view?ddrp=1&hl=en&pli=1
Due to having a detonation problem (my fault as I never dyno tuned), I went with CP 9.0:1 forged pistons. All other internals are the same. Almost all my parts were from LC Engineering or Yotashop. Now that I'm 100 miles into it, all cylinders are reading about 130 psi (though my battery isn't 100 percent and it cranks kinda slow).
So..mechanically I am good but when it comes to electronics, well that's another story. The truck does not run 100 percent. I just replaced the two sensors (both the same on my 49 state) on the exhaust. It does have Doug Thorley headers but I do not hear any exhaust leak. Today I replaced all three coil packs because pulling off one coil pack did not change my idle. Swapped the packs #1 with #3 and it followed the problem so for sure a coil pack problem. I'm about to double check the timing belt to make sure I have the forward arrow facing...forward (made that mistake on a 300zxtt).
Other than that, I have no idea how to get it running correctly. It feels like the timing may be retarded because it surges. I did put a new harness on for the two ping sensors. The supercharger has been rebuilt in the past two years. Double checked vacuum hoses using this diagram (same as I used ten years ago) https://www.google.com/search?q=yot...UIDygC&biw=1035&bih=458#imgrc=FrnmgWdlVeTDuM:
Can anyone think of any other sensors to swap before I give up and take it to a mechanic? Do I need Toyota dealership, dyno shop or who? Once again, I do have a 305cc injector setup with Performance Calibration Unit. I do not have any AF equipment nor the software for the PCU. All I can do is the mechanical stuff.
BTW rebuilding your motor from scratch and having good compression...is a wonderful feeling. Once I get it tuned correctly, I have faith that she will make it another 300k miles. I did what I could such as using ARP main studs/head studs, new oil pump, water pump, etc, etc.
Near the end of it's life, I for sure had ping and problems with a constant check engine light. I pulled the motor and discovered that most of my top rings were compressed. I've discovered you cannot always get super driving through Baja California.
People say that these motors are difficult but I disagree. It's just the same as any motor but I had a local machine shop grind crank, order correct main/rod bearings, check block/heads for flat, replace with all new valves, valve seals (same springs) and he also made did a valve adjustment. Total cost including .020 boring was $1600 from machine shop (ouch). However, if you want to ensure it's done right then you don't really have another choice.
The rest of it is pretty easy. I used the online manual here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4...4NjUtYjk1Y2ZiNjMxMTFk/view?ddrp=1&hl=en&pli=1
Due to having a detonation problem (my fault as I never dyno tuned), I went with CP 9.0:1 forged pistons. All other internals are the same. Almost all my parts were from LC Engineering or Yotashop. Now that I'm 100 miles into it, all cylinders are reading about 130 psi (though my battery isn't 100 percent and it cranks kinda slow).
So..mechanically I am good but when it comes to electronics, well that's another story. The truck does not run 100 percent. I just replaced the two sensors (both the same on my 49 state) on the exhaust. It does have Doug Thorley headers but I do not hear any exhaust leak. Today I replaced all three coil packs because pulling off one coil pack did not change my idle. Swapped the packs #1 with #3 and it followed the problem so for sure a coil pack problem. I'm about to double check the timing belt to make sure I have the forward arrow facing...forward (made that mistake on a 300zxtt).
Other than that, I have no idea how to get it running correctly. It feels like the timing may be retarded because it surges. I did put a new harness on for the two ping sensors. The supercharger has been rebuilt in the past two years. Double checked vacuum hoses using this diagram (same as I used ten years ago) https://www.google.com/search?q=yot...UIDygC&biw=1035&bih=458#imgrc=FrnmgWdlVeTDuM:
Can anyone think of any other sensors to swap before I give up and take it to a mechanic? Do I need Toyota dealership, dyno shop or who? Once again, I do have a 305cc injector setup with Performance Calibration Unit. I do not have any AF equipment nor the software for the PCU. All I can do is the mechanical stuff.
BTW rebuilding your motor from scratch and having good compression...is a wonderful feeling. Once I get it tuned correctly, I have faith that she will make it another 300k miles. I did what I could such as using ARP main studs/head studs, new oil pump, water pump, etc, etc.
Stiffmeister
New member
I've discovered I have a P0330 knock sensor code. Nothing to do with my mechanical rebuild 
Going to replace both knock sensors (already did harness) and verify I have continuity to the ECU.
However, the URD PCU is a question. Not sure if I had to solder up any knock sensor wire thirteen years ago.
Going to replace both knock sensors (already did harness) and verify I have continuity to the ECU. However, the URD PCU is a question. Not sure if I had to solder up any knock sensor wire thirteen years ago.
Stiffmeister
New member
Did you swap it out yourself? Transmission is a bit of a pain. What did you do with the old motor?
I have determined my problem is a knock sensor. I disconnected at the harness, used hair clips and paperclips, and crossed the wires going to bank1/bank2. Code went from PO330 to PO325 which follows the knock sensor. Nice to know my wiring harness isn't a problem. Other than that...no codes.
I have determined my problem is a knock sensor. I disconnected at the harness, used hair clips and paperclips, and crossed the wires going to bank1/bank2. Code went from PO330 to PO325 which follows the knock sensor. Nice to know my wiring harness isn't a problem. Other than that...no codes.
sleepydad
Senior Member
I just went thru this, I replaced my 3.4 with a re-man and destroyed the re-man in 300 miles.... it hurts a lot still. don't ask just know it was 100% my fault. I learned some hard lessons.
I had a different 240K engine I had pulled a while back and was able to use it. it actually runs better than my original engine, put my supercharger back onto it, and I also put doug headers on it. I moved all the non-internal parts from the re-man over to it so it has all new seals, timing gear, water pump.
all that said, I have noticed the older parts that came on these engines are way higher quality than the new stuff. the original aisin oil pump on that 240K motor had better tolerances after 240K than a brand new one. I was surprised but I will not be doing a reman again. there are plenty of good used motors out there with good compression. it is work to find them, yes.
Your going to spend way more than $1500 if you think your going to get a like new engine.
I'm not trying to scare you away from a re-man but all the extra's are expensive if you want quality stuff. new oil cooler, new intake manifold, new injectors, new valve covers, new exhaust stuff, new sensors and wires. it adds up fast and new heads alone are going run you $700 and those are going to need a valve adjustment as well.
if you have access to a machine shop and you can line bore and hone and pressure test... all that good stuff then sure you might be able to do it but engines can get very expensive very fast.
Norcalclassic
New member
Anyone ran a thinner cometic head gasket to bump up the compression and get a few extra ponies. This used to be good for 10-15hp or so on a v8 and it’s free when changing the heads or a rebuild.
brillo_76
Elite Member
Would that turn you engine into an interfere engine? I don't know.if it does. I know I won't use any head gasket but the latest revision from Toyota as they had issues with the aluminum head and cast blocks causing premature head gasket failures in the past.
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