Recommendation on oil changes.
- Thread starter RJS-T4R
- Start date
1000MPH
Senior Member
I drained the sump oil completely and reinstalled the plug with the new crush washer before I tackled the filter asy. 30ft/lb for those with a torque wrench.
Here's a pic of the filter asy. Remove the plug with a 3/8" socket ext. I had to hold the black plastic housing at first to keep it from loosening with the plug. A little oil will come out. Use the little plastic tube and jam it all the way in to release the rest of the oil.
Here's a pic of the filter asy. Remove the plug with a 3/8" socket ext. I had to hold the black plastic housing at first to keep it from loosening with the plug. A little oil will come out. Use the little plastic tube and jam it all the way in to release the rest of the oil.
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1000MPH
Senior Member
After all the oil is drained, take out the clear tube and o-ring by pulling off to the side. Now spin the black plastic housing off slowly using a 65mm filter wrench. The little silver clip doesn't need to be bent out of the way.
Only 2039 miles and this oil looks and smells really clean. A very small amt of metal in the bottom of the filter.
Only 2039 miles and this oil looks and smells really clean. A very small amt of metal in the bottom of the filter.
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1000MPH
Senior Member
Put it all back together with the new, oiled o-rings. Torque ratings are on the filter box. I put in 6 qts of oil, started the engine, checked for leaks, let it sit for a few, checked the level and added a little less than 1/2 qt. Perfect. Put all the covers back on and I'm ready for action.
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SeattleMike
New member
Excellent write up
Nice pics, 1000mph. Disappointed to see a plastic oil filter housing. The 2GR-FE gets a metal one. Everyone needs to be careful when tightening the housing down to not use too much torque. Definitely don't want to be cracking that. I've heard that the metal housing from the 2GR-FE will fit on the UR engine (Tundra 5.7L & 4.6L). I wonder if they will fit on the 1GR-FE.
1000MPH
Senior Member
Thanks. IMO, the filter housing doesn't look like it's designed to be torqued down. You just screw it on until the housing bottoms out and the little metal clip locates the correct position. I torqued on it a little but it ain't going any further. Higher torque won't make a better seal.
1000MPH
Senior Member
You remove the skid plate in front of the one with the drain plug. Removing the plastic cover in front of that makes the job easier, at least for me. Looks like I've exceeded my pic limit so that pic didn't attach.
1000MPH
Senior Member
Another update- I went to Toyota's new owners welcome dinner at the dealership tonight. The service manager said they have 0W20 semi-synthetic in bulk but the full synthetic is only available in bottles. He also said essentially that they won’t do a synth oil change at 5K as part of the free maintenance deal. I told him it’s in the Owner’s Manual and on my coupons and I expect them to honor the agreement. I’m probably going to have to cause a ruckus to get this deal to happen.:whipping2
What a freaking scam 2 years free maintenance = 2 oil changes.:crybaby:
What a freaking scam 2 years free maintenance = 2 oil changes.:crybaby:
took my TE in for 5000 mile service @4998 miles and was told no oil and filter change per new toyota recommendation! told it would cost me about $70! after letting the service manager know what i thought, she finally relented and allowed the oil and filter change but recording it as the 10,000 mile service @ 4998 miles using the service coupon (no charge) and stating that all the coupons were the same whether for 5000, 10000 ,etc service! i guess the dealership really wanted the coupon (2 year free maintenance coupons)!
hiker_jon
New member
Hi,
I bought my 4runner a month ago and have not yet put 5k on it. It supposedly had the 20k free maintenance, but I have not received any coupon book. Is this something your dealer gives to you or do you get it in the mail from Toyota?
1000MPH
Senior Member
I got mine in the mail with my local dealer info on the coupons. I also noted that although the coupons are good for 2 years service they have mileage 5K, 10K, etc on them and in small print they are good for a year after expiration. They'll probably fight me on that too.
As for the renig on the service agreement, could it be a breach of contract?
to xiao yue: i'm with you on oil change interval; i regret that i did not do an initial change at 1000 miles but for fully syn. oil, i believe that the best compromise is changing the oil at 5000 miles b/c dirty oil is dirty oil! ie. it's not the quality of oil that's the issue but more that "dirt"(ie. combustion by-products, physical debris,etc) and its accumulation over time in the oil that really matters! i don't agree with toyota's recom. of 10,000 miles nor other manufacturers of 7,500 miles for that reason. oil is still cheaper than replacing the truck/auto and it has worked for me; toy, honda and nissan trucks a/or autos that i have been driving over 20 years without any engine oil burning!
I did the first oil and filter change at 520 miles (no appreciable metal dust as compared to US badged cars I have owned). I will change again at about 5,000 miles. I will continue to change at 5,000 intervals until the "free" service coupons (every 10k) run out. Then I will likely go to about 6K to 7k interval on Mobile 1 0W20 and NAPA Gold filters.
I just have always dropped the first oil out at about 500 miles to get rid of the metal dust on my new vehicles. I was frankly suprised at how little there was on the 4runner. If I had known, I would have waited for 1 or 2,000 miles. Normally, the bottom of the drain pan is just full with metal dust.
How are you able to verify the presence of metal particles? Did you drop the oil pan? I changed the oil at 180 miles on our last vehicle but it too was a Domestic and conventional oil is very cheap. With this truck I purchased 7 quarts of Toyota 0W-20 and 3 filters (3 for $15!). I will swap the filter at 1000 miles and check for particles. If they are present I may change the oil. If not I will change it out at 5000.
Has anyone been using Mobil 1 5W-20 instead of their 0W-20? It is available in 5 quart jugs at a substantial savings. It rarely gets cold here so in theory the oil is very similar. $10 per oil change for the same good synthetic oil is worth it to me.
Glad to hear the free Toyota maintenance program is coupon based and not mileage based. Have not yet received them in the mail. I want to use that up so I can work on our new ride.
(Physgirl's Husband)
Once the oil has settled for a while in the drain pan, and it is poured it into a container, I have usually been able to see a lot of glissen of metallic dust (not particles) in the oil at 500 to 1000 miles. I did not see this with my new 4Runner. I have never been a believer in so called "break-in" oils and change my new vehicle oils early, when new, and then go to so called "normal" for severe service. I have never had a car that used oil or had low compression.
My drain pan is enclosed so I have not been looking at the fluid for metal particles but I can believe it on a steel block. I believe the 4R is all aluminum (steel sleeves) so less heavy particles in suspension and potentially more in the filter. I want to change it now (250 miles) but I will restrain myself until 1000.
