Recommendation on oil changes.

Was at the dealer today getting a tire balance on my LC and asked about the CTA 2485 and he came back with a factory one that they wanted $42.00 for told him I have to think about that. Spoke to one of the mech in the shop and he said he would not wait for a 10,000 mile oil change he would do it at 5,000 w/syn. This dealership tried to charge me 11.99 for environmental charge to balance my tires told them to remove that tnd they did. Bet they make a lot of money for that bogus charge. I think I'll do mine at 2,500 miles on my 4runner.
 
My salesman told me that the factory runs these motors for the equivalent of 60 miles and then dumps the oil and refills with syn. I'll believe him out of convenience (although the miles unit rather than minutes makes me skeptical). I def doubt that the oil we are driving on is the first that has been run through the engine, but what do I know...

I'll also wait for 10K on the odo before doing an oil change. I don't keep my vehicles for 10 years like many other claim they'll do and have found that the most economical approach to vehicles is to do the factory recommended maintenance at the dealer. No indy shops, no greasy hands, and I can spend time with my kids and other hobbies. I used to do oil changes, radiator and water pump swaps, gear oils, CV joints, plugs, yada yada, but can't justify the time expense these days. My KTM 450 EXC requires that I care for it, but I'd rather ride than wrench any day! Toyota engines always outlast the rest vehicle, so why dump money into that oil filler tube!? Syn is expensive stuff. My $0.02.
 
Well I did the Oil change Yesterday and it all went smooth. I just scanned the whole thread and don't recall seeing anyone posting the torque specs for the filter housing, I might have just overlooked it, but here are the specs...

The torque specs for everything are:
Filter Housing Drain plug= 10 ft lbs
Filter Housing using 64MM X 14 sided wrench = 18 ft lbs
Oil pan Drain Plug w/new washer = 30 ft lbs


My WIX filter showed up yesterday, but the Toyota one looks higher quality, the cleats on the WIX are not straight and are not spaced evenly. I used the Toyota Filter.
 
Got my first change done at the dealer yesterday. Used the service coupon that came with the truck. Was totally free, I even checked the paper work and asked the tech to verify they used synthetic oil. Shows charge and a credit of $60.49 for the service which also included rotation. Can't beat that, we pay like $40 every 3k for my wifes Honda.
 
I'm gonna do my Oil Change today, so yesterday I went to Toyota to get a filter since my WIX from Amsoil hasn't shown up yet and to get the washers for the drain plug.

Right behind me hanging up they had the oil filter wrenches. They had a 65mm which I was gonna buy since everyone on this thread has said it's definitely 65mm. The parts guy was suggesting using the 64mm because that's what all the tundras use I guess. I was doubting him, so he called the service dept and asked them, unfortunately no one knew because they have yet to do an oil change on the 5th gen 4Runner. I even had him look up the SST to see if there was any dimensions on that. There wasn't. I took his word for it and bought the 64MM.

A few minutes ago here at work, I went outside took the front plastic piece, then the skid as everyone has suggested, took just a few minutes. I stuck the wrench up to the filter housing and it fits perfectly.

So for everyone, a 64MM X 14 filter wrench is the perfect size for the Filter housing or at least mine, which should be the same for all 5th gens. It was $13.29 from the dealer and as you can see in the pics, the piece that attaches to the 3/8 ratchet is fully welded to the main piece.

Yours looks better built that ones that Kragen (used to) sell. The 3/8" drive part looks fully welded to the cup. Theirs had a small square for 3/8" drive that looks like it was punched out on a washer. The problem was the 3/8" drive washer had 4 spot welds on the filter cup. Broke mine within a few uses.
 
Thanks for your post and pictures on this filter wrench. I just ordered one through the ctatools.com website. The unit price on it was $1.92 plus shipping of $10.00 = $11.92 (go figure). I will wait and see how this actually comes in in a few days. Sure beats the Toyota tool if it works.
 
That's the tool I bought too. The design of the filter housing relies on an o-ring rather than a gasket or washer so torquing down on it won't improve the seal. Also gives it an unusual feel when removing/replacing compared to a spin on filter. My advice is to make sure your o-ring is seated and lubed and install SLOWLY. You don't want any chance of ripping or pinching the o-ring.
 
0-20W Oil or something else?

Anyone know if it's okay use oil other than 0-20W? Just curious since most other cars and trucks don't require a specific viscosity as long as you are within the operating tempearture range. I live in SoCal so the temperature never hits the "extreme" marks.
 
Filter Cap Tool

I got the CTA cap wrench that I ordered through CTA today. Their site takes you to Autopart.com for the ordering. The one I received does not look like the one pictured in this thread, but it is the right size and should work. If you want the more robust looking tool (mine has only a 3/8 socket which is not fully welded as the one pictured is) then go to this location on the Autopart site Auto Parts and Automotive Tools I did not see this before I ordered the one that was on the "Filter Wrench" page.
 
Oil Change Maintenance

:hatsoff: Thanks, guys! I am going to change my oil this weekend! Great tips and instructions. I am brand new to the board. Very helpful! I appreciate it. Roger
 
Thanks for the tips!

Guys, thanks for the tips on how to change your own oil. I'm doing it this weekend. 80 degrees in Chicago in mid October! Imagine that! I am brand new to the board and the website. I am loving it so far. Thanks again, I appreciate it. Roger :banana:
 
I had my oil changed at the dealer at 5000 miles at no cost, but it took a second trip to get it accomplished. I took it in the first time primarily to get the oil changed, but also told them to do the rest of the required 5K service (rotate tires & fluid level checks). The tech obviously misunderstood my intent and just performed the 5K service w/o an oil change. I took it back noting the error and they performed the oil change at no cost. I bought my T4R prior to any service voucher offerings, so I was happy with that.

It looks like from other posts that an oil change at the dealer will likely cost around $70 minus any vouchers. If so, I will likely have the dealer perform the oil changes until 0W20 syn oil becomes a bit more available in my area. Right now, only one auto parts store carries Mobil 1 in that weight at $8.00 a quart. Throw in $5 for the filter and I'm looking at almost $60 just for parts. Paying the dealer $10 to change the oil while I munch on nice hot cookies, enjoy a complementary fruit juice or decent coffee, relax in massaging chairs, or search the internet in the business office is OK in my book. Shoot, $20 extra is good for that! Plus, I get to look at all the new cars. Don't like the looks of the updated Scion tC over the old though.
 
Just got back from the dealer for my first (5k) O/C. They wouldn't do an oil change for free as part of the Toyota Auto Care Prepaid Maintenance. I told them I already had opened a case with Toyota Customer Experience about this issue (true) and I'll be lodging an official complaint but will pay for the service today. I got "sorry, there's nothing I can do, I can't get authorization from my mgr on a Saturday" In the end I got $20 off of my $72 dollar invoice. I'll be calling Toyota this week.

On top of this, I just noticed they failed to re-install a bolt on my front skid plate. :mad:
Not making me feel real confident but at least that means the odds of them actually changing my filter probably went up.
Also, the guy told me their "rep" told them Mobil makes the Toyota 0W20 oil.
This BS free maintenance costs way too much.

D'oh!
 

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I've opened the case with Toyota Customer Experience, who were very sympathetic. They've learned a bit in the past few years I imagine. We'll see how it goes.
 
I did my first oil change today @ 1800mi. The oil was showing signs of wear, and I found very small metal deposits in the filter. I'll let the dealer do the next two changes @ 10k (free). I -highly- recommend using Rhino Ramps to get to the filter without removing the skidplate, just let it hang.

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$46 for 7 quarts of 0W-20 toyota synthetic & a filter for me. There is some sort of toyota employee discount built into that, though.

If you hit Advance Auto Parts at the right time, you can get 5qts of synthetic castrol oil + a filter for $25. I don't know if they make a 0W-20, though.
 
mine looked about the same at 5000 miles. in any case, since Toyota recommends a 10k mile OCI—even for the first change—you at least know you're doing better than the manufacturer spec.
 
No call back from my Case Rep. yet.
But I forgot to mention one more thing...
Brand new oil is so clear it was hard to get an accurate level when warm but I knew it was close. I checked oil the level the next morning more carefully and sure enough, it's barely 1/2 way up the dip stick between hi and lo.

Good: they only charged me for 6 qts.
Bad: they only put in 6 qts.
 
yeah, the 0w20 is so thin and clear when new it seems you really should just pour in the spec'd 6.5 qts and roll because when you pull the dipstick, wipe it clean, and slide it back in and out it's really tough to get an accurate read. it's more clear when you first pull the dipstick after it's been sitting cold.

i hear you re: your dissatisfaction with the "free maintenance". i wasn't charged for my 5k oil change/tire rotation, but the tech only put in 5.5 quarts of 0w20... i quickly realized the mistake and topped it off, but still... before i left the svc writer informed me that they would only do 10k oci moving forward; this thread will be invaluable to me as i do my own oil change next time, so thanks to all for documenting their experiences.
 

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