Recovery/Pulling-Out Other Vehicles - 4WD??

I got your recovery rope right here

3d8f27a6.jpg~original
 
When looking for recovery gear just remember these terms for differences.
Snatch/recovery strap= stretchy and capable of dynamic pull(leave slack and get momentum) it will stretch and comfort the yank and actually store some energy from stretching itself to actually help with the recovery.

Tow strap= static load only (never allow slack) if you try to give a yank with slack in this you are asking for it to break or break something on one or both vehicles.

Some manufacturers sell both and will usually color code so that there is an obvious difference and you wont get confused. Expect to pay anywhere from $50-$150 for good gear.
 
fluffeh said:
Oi. That's expensive.
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thats about right.

ive been using procomp straps. theyre nice and soft, with leather wrapped loops. nice straps. but, about that same price.


also, i know people say not to pull in reverse, and i know that it runs on the weaker side of the REAR ring gear, but it really does work better.

you have much more weight over the front tires, and you can SEE wtf is going on.

also, in reverse the front gears are running on the strong side(unless its a high-pinion) and the front will be doing the most work.
if its on a slick surface, i wouldnt think twice about pulling from the front.
and...ive done it 100's, if not 1000's of times. not a single issue yet.

one piece of advice, IF you decide to pull from the front, make sure the tires are straight. if theyre turned, you can more easily break a cv or axle.
 
Thank you for the replies everyone. Gave me a little better insight on recovery and use of the 4wd systems on the 4runner. I have recently installed the General Grabber AT2s and they seem to perform much better. I have also recently pulled a F350 truck hooked onto a large trailer full of wood out of the snow. This is where I definitely noticed the benefits of 4wd-Lo with diff lock on. Gave me much more overall torque and power.
 
Wow, this is all really good info. I'd never realized that you can do dynamic recoveries with things that aren't completely elastic. I feel like you guys should teach a T4R recovery class, because I doubt I've been doing it right.
Speaking of which, I have a question. If i want to park my 4R and have someone winch themselves to it, what would be the best setup? In the past I've just put it in park with the parking brake and hook it onto the tow hook in the front or the big tow bar thing (blanking on the name right now) in the back. Is there a better way to do it?
 
fluffeh said:
Wow, this is all really good info. I'd never realized that you can do dynamic recoveries with things that aren't completely elastic. I feel like you guys should teach a T4R recovery class, because I doubt I've been doing it right.
Speaking of which, I have a question. If i want to park my 4R and have someone winch themselves to it, what would be the best setup? In the past I've just put it in park with the parking brake and hook it onto the tow hook in the front or the big tow bar thing (blanking on the name right now) in the back. Is there a better way to do it?
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Or just don't get stuck, hahaha
 
When possible, and when it makes sense, pull the stuck vehicle out the way it went in. For snow in particular, the stuck vehicle made a path in so it would be much easier to pull the vehicle through a path than through untouched snow.
 
If you can put your bumper (if you have an aftermarket one, that's is) or tire against a tree or stump that's between you and the vehicle winching itself to you, there is a better chance that your vehicle will stay put. (Seems like every time we are winching to another vehicle, keeping the free vehicle still is a task within itself.).

Of course do this so as to not damage the tree that's you're using as leverage.
 
4Running Daily said:
Or just don't get stuck, hahaha
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I'm not the one getting stuck. Remember my Jeep friend? ;P

tinman said:
If you can put your bumper (if you have an aftermarket one, that's is) or tire against a tree or stump that's between you and the vehicle winching itself to you, there is a better chance that your vehicle will stay put. (Seems like every time we are winching to another vehicle, keeping the free vehicle still is a task within itself.).

Of course do this so as to not damage the tree that's you're using as leverage.
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Hmm, I'd never thought of that before. Just another reason to get a bumper for myself. I was worried about sliding, but that would definitely help that issue.
 
Try not and use just a parking brake to anchor your truck - keep your foot on the brake as your now using all four brakes instead of the just the rear p brake activated by a cable. Using your parking brake also puts more wear and stress on the little parking pawl in the transmission.

Make sure your not securing a winch hook to any transport tags on the truck - those aren't really recovery points. They were used to hold he truck down when it was transported. (I've seen some 'Yotas with tags and some that don't .) On the rear I'm guessing your talking about the receiver hitch? Nothing wrong with using that.

We still have a few recovery tips on our web site: Off-road driving school. Overland recreational, professional and military training. 4x4 travel. — Overland Experts
 
fluffeh said:
I'm not the one getting stuck. Remember my Jeep friend? ;P



Hmm, I'd never thought of that before. Just another reason to get a bumper for myself. I was worried about sliding, but that would definitely help that issue.
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The one with the fail shackle silencers? haha
 
Yeah, that one. He's so proud of saving that one Toyota that got high centered that he wants to get a Toyota rescue crew sticker. xD

But he likes to get stuck because he's not lifted and is convinced he can do anything. :P

Emmodg, I've never heard of transport tags but I pretty much just use the toe hook on the front and yes, I am talking about the receiver hitch in the back.
 
Transport tags are little "loops" welded or bolted to the frame. They're used to tie cars/trucks down for transport on ship, or truck from the factory.
 
Thanks for the thread. A lot of good tips and information. Used some of it this morning as my dad got stuck on some ice....

Yota to the rescue!
 
rebelbowtie said:
Try not to recover anyone in reverse, because of the way the gears are cut they are about 30% weaker in reverse. Also your shift bands in the transmission are weakest in reverse.

Just a friendly tip!
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Read this also on other forums, good point. As a safety tip, I'd like to add that when pulling someone out, raise the hood As a safety barrier. If the tow strap or attaching hardware breaks loose it may stop anything from flying through their windshield.
 
Mindomission said:
Read this also on other forums, good point. As a safety tip, I'd like to add that when pulling someone out, raise the hood As a safety barrier. If the tow strap or attaching hardware breaks loose it may stop anything from flying through their windshield.
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Windshields are cheaper than hoods. If you are using chain, it could conceivably go through the windshield, but more likely just destroy it. When winching with a steel cable I will drape heavy strap or blankets on the cable, just to slow the cable down if it does snap. synthetic straps/winch line may snap, but highly unlikely to go through a windshield.

I'd rather be able to see what is going on, but that's just me.

:couch2:
 
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