recovery

[c130mech]

Well first off... i have been a silent member for a while now - just doing some research on what to do with the runner...

I must say i have never been so pleased with a vehicle as i have been with this one!

Currently we are enroute to alaska driving the alcan. both my wife and i are towing fully loaded 6x12 uhaul trailers with a combined fully loaded weight of 9500 lbs. My rig (stock 4runner limited) doesnt even seem to be fazed!

Yesterday my wife hit a slick patch of road and wiped around a few times then the momentum of her trailer took her into the ditch. i pulled over and unhooked the trailer and started getting the recovery gear ready... there was no way i could unhook her trailer and do it one by one so i had to pull her hooked up. Boy was i impressed!!! dropped her in 4lo and low gear then went in to get her - got her out with little issue.

The point of the post is to ask for advise or tips for recovery - as we are going to alaska im sure there are many things to do with her!

 

[CJ3Flyr]

Getting Unstuck Technique IMHO: When using 4lo (or 4hi) to get unstuck lock the center differential. It'll allow you to have full control of the engine output. If the center diff isn't locked the VSC will cut the power way back. In delicate, low-speed, low-traction situations I think 'we' can do better than the nanny systems.

This may ignite a flame war but "when I was a boy" we used to do better in the snow by selecting a higher gear. It reduces the torque making it easier to control the spin. Another term is tractable, the rpm will go up and down a bit instead of holding exactly constant rpm even when the vehicle doesn't maintain a constant speed. That helps maintain the traction rather than break traction. In standard shifts it was common to feather the clutch and start out in 2nd gear when it was very slippery. Many auto's that have a 'winter' button take off in 2nd or 3rd when the button is pushed. If the surface was the type where some spin was desirable to burn down to better traction the higher gear helped with that too. So... If I was stuck in the snow I would lock the center diff, try gentle throttle application* in 4hi and maybe some rocking back and forth. That's just me... Off-roading with rock and mud involved 4lo is probably more desirable. The slower wheelspeed afforded by 4lo is generally very desirable in the off-roading scenario.

*I say gentle because of another thing. The ATRAC loses effectiveness at high power settings and RPM's above 2500 or so. You want the ATRAC function helping out as it provides the limited-slip functionality for the axles.

Recovery: Here the assumption is the pulling vehicle has fairly good traction. 4lo is a great choice for the pulling vehicle. The torque multiplication and lower wheel speeds make it ideal for pulling a stuck vehicle. Pull from the front or back? Pulling from the front is done, I have done it but it has some serious short comings. IMHO it should only be done slowly, gently and for easy pulls. Based on the pic I might have pulled the 4Runner out from the front. It would really depend on how much traction the tow vehicle had. If I had good traction and I suspected no yanking/snatching would be required I might consider it. My point is don't do it but never say never... What's wrong with pulling from the front? 1) A device in the trailer hitch receiver is stronger than the hooks and much stronger than a single front hook. 2) The trailer receiver won't 'tweak' the right-to-left frame rail alignment like hooking up to one front tow hook could; especially true if you're yanking/snatching. 3) The axles can handle more torque pulling forward due to the angle cut gears which are designed to run 'forward' not 'backwards'. The transmission is better off going forward too. 4) If you break a strap, a shackle or are using a less than ideal 'tow-rope' (with metal hooks) it can whip fast and smack the front of the vehicle. Will it break the windshield and kill you? Maybe, maybe not. Could the same thing happen through the rear window? Maybe but less likely IMHO (even though the glass is weaker there's seat's etc in the way). Here's my main point for pulling from the rear: When the strap breaks and stuff flies all over it messes up the back of my car. Pulling from the front may launch a broken hook/shackle through my radiator leaving me with 2 stranded vehicles.


Gear: A true recovery strap is the single most important piece of equipment. You may want two as often times they are shorter. Of course, it is worthless without a good way to connect it to the 4Runner and the vehicle that's pulling (or vice-versa in most cases:bigok: ). You need a couple of good, appropriately rated shackles for the front tow eyes and a shackled receiver insert.

IMHO, there's varying grades of this equipment. I believe in good equipment but I know that doesn't always happen. What's important is HD enough to handle a sharp 'tug' on your 4800lb 4Runner (that assumes some stuff in the Runner). I also know there's a balance due to space limitations. None of us want to ride with a vehicle full of stuff but we all want to have exactly what we need. There's a great thread on winter survival stuff here: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/general-discussions/41609-winter-survival-pack.html Below are some links to the type of recovery equipment I was talking about. Many of the 4 wheel-drive houses have pre-packaged kits and very high quality kits. The stuff below will get the job done and give you some ideas.
Amazon.com: recovery strap: Automotive

If this link 'times-out' go to amazon and search "recovery strap" in the search window. Also scan the bottom where it says, "Customers Who Bought Items in Your Recent History Also Bought". You'll see D-rings and other good stuff including a "Receiver Shackle Bracket".

I'm not saying Amazon is the right place to buy but it's a good place to shop...

 

[c130mech]

okay thanks... any input on techniek?? a canadian that was driving by said to pull it out with my nose instead of the tail.... but by the time he said that i had her on level driving ground.... why would he say that??

 

[CJ3Flyr]

okay thanks... any input on techniek?? a canadian that was driving by said to pull it out with my nose instead of the tail.... but by the time he said that i had her on level driving ground.... why would he say that??

I have done both ways. I like pulling in R if it's an easy pull like your situation. Great visibility, good traction etc. Hook-up is harder though. Mechanically the the pulling vehicle is less likely to break an axle if you hook up to the rear of it.

 

[CAN-03runner]

Good on you on a "REAL" road trip. I'm still trying to plan mine.

I read that you were getting your tow kit ready. So this info might be known to you already, but it doesn’t hurt to share it. It will benefit someone where.

One thing that I have learned and would like to share with you is that a "tow rope" does not stretch and it is used for towing and not recovery. You should not use this kind of cord/rope for recovery, especially if it has hooks on the ends of it. Those likely are also not rated and might break off and go flying into the air hopefully not into your body or face.

Use a real rated "snatch strap",it has some elasticity. When you attach this cord and you pull on it, the cord/strap will stretch. This makes it so that it is not such a heavy blow to the truck when it is tugged, and also the stored energy in the stretching of the cord needs to go somewhere; the cord will want to re-compress or recoil, and so it will actually help to pull the stuck truck out of it's "stuckness"


Don't tie cords in a knot around a tow hook recovery point. Instead these Snatch straps will have a loop at the ends. View attachment 23768

Pass that loop into a rated "Bow Shackle or D ring", View attachment 23769 do not use the "D" rings you get a hardware store they are not rated and might break apart under the pressure. Also If your truck has 2 recovery points in the front and in the rear, well you can also attach a shackle to each one of those 2 infront or rear. Then pass a recovery strap between the shackles to link them together, and attach the towing snatch strap in the middle of the strap linking the 2 shackles together to spread the load, so that you are not pulling your truck up from just one corner.

You can also get a receiver shackle that fits into your hitch.View attachment 23771 View attachment 23772If the snatch strap is used in muddy or very dirty area when you get a chance you should wash it up with water so that the dirt and mud doesn't become hardened around the strap which will cause the strap to lose elasticity.

Slow, steady and gentle is the name of the game here. With the proper straps and attachment points this is made much safer and with that proper snatch rope you will let the elasticity in the rope do the work for you.

You might also want to get a chain with hooks. View attachment 23770 But Never ever use a chain for recovery. But if you come across something in the road like a tree branch or some other debris you don't want to drive over you can attach the chain around it and pull it out of the way. Use the chain instead of the tow straps or snatch straps so that the straps don't get scuffed up and then begin to rip up.

What I am still needing to figure out being that it's still only a couple of weeks that I have my 4runner, is if the 2 recovery points I can see under my 4th Generation 2003 4Runner Sport are solid enough to be pulled from, or do the pulling. Are the factory rated and can be used for some heavy pulling. Or are these just for show, and light duty but not really off of the road, pull me out of a ditch kind of pulling.

Good luck, have a good time in Alaska.

 

[Will_4R]

One thing that I have learned and would like to share with you is that a "tow rope" does not stretch and it is used for towing and not recovery. You should not use this kind of cord/rope for recovery, especially if it has hooks on the ends of it. Those likely are also not rated and might break off and go flying into the air hopefully not into your body or face.

Tow ropes do stretch, it is the nylon that stretches. I am not sure that a real snatch strap stretches any more than the tow rope. The real difference is the strength. Most tow ropes are rated to like 2000 pounds, and it is not clear if that is the working load limit or breaking strength. Real recovery/snatch straps should have a strength rating of at least 20,000 pounds, and a working load limit of 1/3 the breaking strength.

RE: hooks. Everyone says to avoid straps with hooks. I don't see anything overly wrong with the hooks themselves if they are appropriately rated. I think the main issue is that in general, straps that come with hooks are not strong.

Also If your truck has 2 recovery points in the front and in the rear, well you can also attach a shackle to each one of those 2 infront or rear. Then pass a recovery strap between the shackles to link them together, and attach the towing snatch strap in the middle of the strap linking the 2 shackles together to spread the load, so that you are not pulling your truck up from just one corner.

This is dangerous as it actually increases the load on each of the points. Don't do it. In the climbing world it is known as the American Triangle of Death (no offense to Americans). If you want to reduce the load on each point there is a proper method for doing it. It is hard to explain without pictures. I will find some link online and post them.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_death_triangle - why not to use this method
http://www.climbing.com/print/techtips/tttrad224/ - second sketch (left) shows the prefered way to equalize a load between two anchors

What I am still needing to figure out being that it's still only a couple of weeks that I have my 4runner, is if the 2 recovery points I can see under my 4th Generation 2003 4Runner Sport are solid enough to be pulled from, or do the pulling. Are the factory rated and can be used for some heavy pulling. Or are these just for show, and light duty but not really off of the road, pull me out of a ditch kind of pulling.

The manual states that those are vehicle recovery points. They don't mention a safe working load, so I am skeptical about using them for a full blown snatch. Straight pulling should be fine.

Great post with lots of good information. I agree it with everyting you said except the above points.

I will also add that you entire recovery system is only as strong as it's weekest link. A super strong strap is of little benefit if your harware is not at least as strong. It is my opion that the strap itself should be the weakest link. If the strap breaks you have a peice of nylon flying through the air. If a piece of harware breaks you have a piece of metal flying through the air.

 

[c130mech]

Awsome info.. Thanks... this will come in handy. and like i said i am very impressed with the 4runner! this was my frist Real 'in the sh*t' however i might have miss stated what i ment to say - i was the 4runner, that was recovering my wife in the trailblazer which ended in the ditch. we both are towing a trailer and as you see i droped mine and pulled her still attached to the trailer. combined total weight fully loaded 9500 lbs... very impressed!!!

Once again - thankyou for your advice! anyone in anchorage area?

 

[Arcking]

Tow ropes do stretch, it is the nylon that stretches. I am not sure that a real snatch strap stretches any more than the tow rope.

So, if you have a snatch strap there's no real need for a tow rope?

 

[CJ3Flyr]

So, if you have a snatch strap there's no real need for a tow rope?

True.

Good snatch straps are expensive. Tow ropes are not. If you're trying to pull a car a mile down the road most don't want to use the expensive snatch strap as it will inevitably get dragged on the road and torn up a bit. Most 'tow ropes' are so cheap you can almost view them as disposable.

 

[CAN-03runner]

Since we are talking recovery and pulling and safety...While I don't own a winch whenever I've seen one in operation usually they put some sort of dampener like a heavy leather bag equipment might be stored in, or an old heavy coat onto the line. Would anyone say this technique is recommended for when pulling or tugging with a snatch strap or tow rope? The weight is supposed to keep the line from flying all over the place, but instead be pushed down to the ground.

 

[CJ3Flyr]

Since we are talking recovery and pulling and safety...While I don't own a winch whenever I've seen one in operation usually they put some sort of dampener like a heavy leather bag equipment might be stored in, or an old heavy coat onto the line. Would anyone say this technique is recommended for when pulling or tugging with a snatch strap or tow rope? The weight is supposed to keep the line from flying all over the place, but instead be pushed down to the ground.

I suppose it would but I have mainly seen that technique with winching (as you said) not pulling.

 

[Uneek]

From what I've read, people cover metal wire winch lines because if it breaks, it becomes a deadly whip. Synthetic rope lines tend to just fall on the ground when they break, so most don't cover them.

 

[Pikeman]

A couple reasons you dont need to cover a recovery strap. It is Nylon and if the strap fails it will most likely fall to ground or have minimal snap, whipping. What you need to worr about is if the hook or shackle fails but stays attached to strap then it gives the weight and projectile to cause injury/ damage. For this reason you never conect 2 straps together with a shackle. If you need to link two straps together you feed them through each other. Also it is highly likely that if you do try putting a damper on the strap to keep it from flying after failure is the damper will just fall off with first jerk/ tug.

 

[bak3rme]

is that ga licesnse plate

 

[c130mech]

yep sure was... now its an alaska plate...

 

[bak3rme]

yep sure was... now its an alaska plate...

wow...u guys drove from GA all the way to alaska. i bet that was the longest trip ever, but it was probbaly really cool to travel like that. what part of GA did u move from?

 

[c130mech]

Moody AFB, GA. (located in Valdosta, Ga) to Elmendorf AFB, AK. (located in Anchorage, AK) Yea it was a hell of a trip. 45689 total miles. the trip was long but fun. And As i said in the beginning very impressed on the 4runner she handled awesome! i love to drive. the coldest temp we saw was -55F as for it being dangerous in the winter i would say yes but no. We did our homework on the trip and were prepared for the worst. the Canadians do an awesome job on up keep and cleaning of the road. We knoticed that the cops and mobile medics played leap frog with us as we were driving. very reassuring! after reserection bay it got bad with the frost heaves along with crossing into AK the roads were poorly maintained.

the only thing that sucked was when the wife finally put her rig into the ditch there was like 600 miles of her refusing to go above 35 mph. I guess she was scared out of her mind after that. once it was done she told me i was lucky because she almost quit after the ditch and was going to tell me she will be my passenger and i would have to come back for her rig...

Once here though i was very pissed. I have a full Toyota warentee and a tire warrentee and they said they cant honor it up here. When i bought the car i expressively asked for reassurance that everything will transfer to *pick a place* due to being in the AF - I got a Yes... So i called the 1800 number and it will now become a PITA - i have to pay for it then send things in for re-reimbursement... Im not sure about my tire pkg yet either... Very pissed...

 

[CJ3Flyr]

Once here though i was very pissed. I have a full Toyota warentee and a tire warrentee and they said they cant honor it up here. When i bought the car i expressively asked for reassurance that everything will transfer to *pick a place* due to being in the AF - I got a Yes... So i called the 1800 number and it will now become a PITA - i have to pay for it then send things in for re-reimbursement... Im not sure about my tire pkg yet either... Very pissed...

That sucks! I could almost understand it if you you went to another country but one of the 53 States??? :wtf:


Glad the drive went well and the tale speaks to the character of your wife. Good for her for getting back on the horse that just threw her:bigok: Even if it was at 35mph for a while many a person (male or female) would have quit. Towing is intimidating unless you have a good bit of experience with it and add to that the conditions... She did alright


j/k on the 53. A little political humor

 

[c130mech]

lol on the 53 states... i picked up on it! and yea, as much as i complain about it i cant complain too much about my wife...she did good considering it was her first time and i had given her a crash course prior to getting on the road... myself been around towing a 30 ft boat most my younger years... Im very glad she indeed did get back on the horse as you put it! it definitly would have created a very undo stresser on me and our wallet :bash: ....