ReGearing a V8?

I would definately regear. I do not like the more sluggish feeling of bigger tires. I do not want to give up any of that torque that puts a smile on my face. I noticed a difference in just going to 265/70/17s on my V8 4runner. It just took a little bit of the fun away. When I put 33s on my Jeep Wrangler it was a dog till I put 4.10 gears in it then it was fun to drive again. I guess some people just get used to the slower acceleration. Go back and drive a stock tire size V8 and you will see what you are missing.
 
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re gearing has less to do with "peppiness" and more to do with relieving stress from the drive train.

Hmm... I'm not sure I completely agree, regearing can increase or decrease speed/torque depending on what you do with it.

I could be way off on this as I have not regear'd and have not compared the gears side by side but I do have a thought on this: To keep the basic dimensions the same and only change the tooth count to increase the gear ratio, doesn't the pinion gear essentially have to loose some strength to match the changes on the "crown" or "ring" gear which does get significantly stronger? I only say that as the tooth contact would be less then the stock setup. Again, I'm not 100% on this thought...

I'm still under the impression that the cv's and transfer case are the true week spots throughout the entire drive train.
 
yes the higher numerical value the gear ratio has the thinner the teeth on the gear is an inherently "weaker" but it still takes stress off the entire driveline by regearing for larger tires regardless of engine size.

prime example is take fullsize 3/4 and 1 ton trucks with large v8's or diesel engines producing over 400 hp and torques. you could spin 39.5's in a truck like that with stock 3.73 gearing…but spin those 39.5's and see the long term consequences. you will have transmission or clutch failure prematurely.

our 4Runners are no exception.
 
i dont think it matters why i want to regear, or how i regear. I think the purpose of this thread is you shed light for the V8 guys that want to regear there trucks for there own reasons/opinions. I may want to drag race the truck for all anyone is truly concerned. Us V8 guys need a gear set specific to our trucks not just a gear set we think will work because it works in the V6. To add to the previous posts; however, final drive ratio has no indication on the thickness of teeth. The tooth thickness is relevant to the diameter of the Ring gear (ex: 7.5", 8", 9", 14") as well as the final drive ratio. (for example the teeth on an 8" ring 4.11 are going to be thinner than a 9" ring 4.11 gear set. I really do appriciate your inputs; however, I plan to regear regaurdless of what someone else advises me as good or bad because A.) the hard way is always the best way to truly learn B.) I want to regear my truck plain and simple. The problem: source for a specific V8 toyota 4runner ring & pinion set is to my knowledge non-existant.
 
you are wrong in the fact that the gear ratio has no affect on the thickness of teeth. i have personally regeared my own vehicles in the past and can tell you that a 3.73 gear set is thicker than a 5.13 gear set. i didnt change ring size theyre both 8.6" GM ring gears…

but to get back on topic, can someone actually tell me what the difference is in the v8 axle vs v6 that makes the ring gears not interchangeable. the fact that the v6 has part time 4x4 has jack **** to do with it either.
 
To add to the previous posts; however, final drive ratio has no indication on the thickness of teeth. The tooth thickness is relevant to the diameter of the Ring gear (ex: 7.5", 8", 9", 14") as well as the final drive ratio. (for example the teeth on an 8" ring 4.11 are going to be thinner than a 9" ring 4.11 gear set.)[/QUOTE]

you are wrong in the fact that the gear ratio has no affect on the thickness of teeth. i have personally regeared my own vehicles in the past and can tell you that a 3.73 gear set is thicker than a 5.13 gear set. i didnt change ring size theyre both 8.6" GM ring gears….

you would be agreeing with what i said on that statement
 
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To add to the previous posts; however, final drive ratio has no indication on the thickness of teeth. The tooth thickness is relevant to the diameter of the Ring gear (ex: 7.5", 8", 9", 14") as well as the final drive ratio. (for example the teeth on an 8" ring 4.11 are going to be thinner than a 9" ring 4.11 gear set.)



you would be agreeing with what i said on that statement[/QUOTE]

If you are agreeing with my post then I may have misunderstood your original statement
 
Yes I do. Myself and others with V8s have regeared.

That said, if you're going with 4.88, in the front though, you'll need a 3.91 carrier with a solid pinion spacer or run an ARB.

Not sure why your particular distributor is saying V6 only, pick up the phone and ask them. If you're not getting clarification from your distributor, you're talking to the wrong peeps.
Do you know this for a FACT??????????

if they were the same why would distributors specify them to the V6 only??
 
Yes I do. Myself and others with V8s have regeared.

That said, if you're going with 4.88, in the front though, you'll need a 3.91 carrier with a solid pinion spacer or run an ARB.

Not sure why your particular distributor is saying V6 only, pick up the phone and ask them. If you're not getting clarification from your distributor, you're talking to the wrong peeps.

Awesome! I planned to go with 4.11's or 4.56's. I havn't actually talked to anyone about the gear sets in particular, the distributors i speak of would be sources i've found online. I was hoping someone with a V8 would chime in on this thread with some experience. Did you do the job yourself or have a local drive line shop re gear your truck, and I'm assuming you went with 4.88's by chance where did you source your gears from thanks!!

edit: nevermind i found your build thread!! looks like you grabed the 4.56's if you dont mind could you hook me up with a source for the ring and pinion sets you used. as well as the lockers with p/n's If not just for me for all the other V8 guys somewhat in the dark please and thanks!!!
 
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well i finally got some time to get the research done and thanks to superman being able to read through all of 4crawlers info to find some needed info. here are the part numbers and pricing for everything needed to do a complete regear and locker setup front and rear on a V8 4wd drivetrain: View attachment Est_42946_from_J.T.s_Parts__Accessories_6104.pdf The estimate is from justdifferentials.com or JT parts and accessories. The setup is ARB locker front TJM pro locker rear (i like there solenoid setup better than ARB but TJM doesnt offer a locker for our front IFS.) also this is priced with 4.56 nitro thick cut gears in the front, 4.56 nitro regular cut rear. everything comes with a 2 year warranty. Note this setup is for the 8" IFS clamshell front axle and turbo V6 toyota 8" rear axle. also adds a second ARB switch for the rear TJM locker so you dont have mixed match switches (im picky like that anyway)


info on our front and rear carriers is at this think: Erik's Toyota Differential info

hope this helps anyone who's interested in this. I personally may purchase the front setup from this vendor; however, I believe I've source a cheaper solution for the rear, I will post any other info i gain on this matter enjoy!
 

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Figure I'd bump this thread for giggles.

Something I must have missed in the thread when rereading that never got answered...

~For the V8's should we be regearing identically front and rear? i.e. 4.11's up front and rear since the system is always engaged and this will allow the Torsen to function as intended instead of being biased to one side due to a slight difference in torque distribution...

Also, did we ever settle what a good ratio would be for a V8? Looked like 4.11 and 4.56 seemed to be commonly thrown numbers towards the end. :)
 
Ran back into this thread afters someone liked one of my posts. Its interesting to say the least to read some of your old posts lol..

Anyway to update, compile, and improve on the info here.

I went with 4.56's I'm very happy with them. I would have regrets about 4.88's on highway rpm's and I never could get a 4.11 option when i did finally purchase. Gas mileage change was negligible but acceleration is there all day now.

you do need a different carrier than the factory carrier to run the different gear sets above 3.91

I started with a TJM rear carrier and an ARB front carrier Nitro 4.56 gears and added a solid pinion spacer in the rear.

The TJM soleniod actuator has a slight fitment issue in the turbo v6 axle housings, it seems though all it takes to clear the issue is to dent back the inside of the housing to give a bit more inner clearance.

East Coast Gear Supply was by source and I'm very happy with there service. They happily swapped my rear carrier out to an ARB after I was unhappy with the fitment of the TJM. They also stand by a 5 year warranty on the ring an pinion setup. They send you a built front IFS diff and a rear third member you just swap out theirs for yours and ship yours back. After hooking up an air source your ready to hit the trail!
 
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Ran back into this thread afters someone liked one of my posts. Its interesting to say the least to read some of your old posts lol..

Anyway to update, compile, and improve on the info here.

I went with 4.56's I'm very happy with them. I would have regrets about 4.88's on highway rpm's and I never could get a 4.11 option when i did finally purchase. Gas mileage change was negligible but acceleration is there all day now.

you do need a different carrier than the factory carrier to run the different gear sets above 3.91

I started with a TJM rear carrier and an ARB front carrier Nitro 4.56 gears and added a solid pinion spacer in the rear.

The TJM soleniod actuator has a slight fitment issue in the turbo v6 axle housings, it seems though all it takes to clear the issue is to dent back the inside of the housing to give a bit more inner clearance.

East Coast Gear Supply was by source and I'm very happy with there service. They happily swapped my rear carrier out to an ARB after I was unhappy with the fitment of the TJM. They also stand by a 5 year warranty on the ring an pinion setup. They send you a built front IFS diff and a rear third member you just swap out theirs for yours and ship yours back. After hooking up an air source your ready to hit the trail!

Thanks for the details. I couldn't find much on regearing on the V8. I did the calculation and it says to regear to 4.10 but I feel like that isn't much of a jump over stock. I will probably take your recommendation on the 4.56's.
 
Re-reading this thread somehow makes me want a Procomp bracket lift, bubba**** welded leaf rear end, and 35s on 20" rims.
 
Bump.. anyone have any input on this still interested in regearing lol thanks i suppose i could blindly walk into a drive line shop and perhaps get ripped off but i wouldnt think my toyota buddies would let that happen lol

What was the stock gear ratio on your limited. I have the v8 limited but RWD and just blew my ring gear
 

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