Remote keyless entry, without all the extraa?

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Mojoski

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Remote keyless entry, without all the extras?

Is there a cheap kit I can install on a 3rd Gen, which that already has power locks, that would give me remote keyless entry but not much else? I miss having it, but I don't really want to plunk down the cash for a system with remote start, alarms, and a bunch of other stuff I don't really care about..

Any ideas?

I just want to be able to unlock and lock my doors and trunk with a dongle on my keys. Nothing fancy..

Thanks!
 
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i was looking for the same set up like you i just got a basic clifford keyless entry for about $75 i wanted a good quality unit took a few hours to install it
 
yes...

It will do lock/unlock, light flash, horn honk, and the antenna is built in! For basic keyless those are the ones I use.
 
Awesome! Thanks for everyone's input. I just ordered mine from Amazon.. Woot!!

tarheeltp17 said:
yes...

It will do lock/unlock, light flash, horn honk, and the antenna is built in! For basic keyless those are the ones I use.
Click to expand...
 
So does anyone have any tips or links to write ups about installing one of these systems? The install manual looks a bit overwhelming.

I don't want any extra features, really. Just basic lock and unlock...

How hard are these things to install, really?
 
red: + constant 12 volts
yellow: + ignition 12 volts
black: - ground
black/white: - horn honk
white: + light flash

then on a small plug to the side you have...
red: + unlock, - lock
green: - unlock, + lock
red/black: 2nd unlock (not used)

I'm pretty sure thats right for the lock/unlock wires. I know the color is right. Basically if your door locks are + triggered, then red is your unlock and green is your lock. Hooking these up backwards won't mess anything up. You'll know instantly when you hit the lock button if you have it installed backwards because it will unlock the car.

You also don't have to hook up the ignition wire unless you plan on utilizing the ignition controlled door locks - a feature that locks the doors a few seconds after you crank the car and then unlocks the doors right as you cut the ignition off.
 
Thanks for all the info!

A few questions:

Do I really need to mount the LED and the valet switch? I won't ever be valet parking this car, and even if I do, I'm not using the ignition disabling or the auto locking of the car based on ignition status.. All I want to do is be able to lock and unlock with the remote.

Light flash and horn honk would be nice, I suppose, for finding the car in the parking lot at the airport. The rest of the "features" I don't really care about..

That said, can I just skip installing the LED and the switch? And just splice/solder the wires mentioned above?

Thanks!
 
One more question:

In the Installation Manual for the APS-45B it says the following:

- Determine the type of factory power door lock system in use. Knowing the type of system before beginning the installation can make the installation easier and faster since your can build whatever interface (if needed) beforehand.
Click to expand...

So does anyone know what type of power door lock system would be in a 1996 4Runner SR5 and whether or not a interface will need to be created? It sounds like it won't be needed, based on your comments above, but I just wanted to double check..

Thanks again for all of your input! It is most appreciated!
 
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Yet another question...

You had said that the second unlock wire (that is red/black) is not used. Wouldn't that be used if I wanted to try to set it up so that the first click of the unlock button only unlocked the driver door and the second press of the button unlocked all the other doors. I'd like it to work that way, if possible. Is that possible?

I had assumed it was since my key in the driver door works that way. The first time I turn the key counter-clockwise it unlocks the driver's door. The second time it unlocks the rest of the doors.

Let me know your thoughts..

Thanks again!
 
HELP!! I'm so close!

Well, I'm so close I can taste it.. I got the ground, the power, the horn and the lights all working..

It just isn't unlocking my doors..

:confused:

I have tried wiring up the locks about 4 different ways with no luck..

First of all, I'm a bit confused about the wires that should be used..

My table from "The 12 Volt" shows that the 1996 4Runner should have wires in the driver side kick panel that are "red/white" and "red/yellow" that control the locks. It looks like this:

Code: 
Door Trigger        Black/White (-)     Back of FusePanel at White 3 pin connector
Door Lock           Red/White (-)       Driver's Kick Panel
Door Unlock         Red/Yellow (-)

Here is the link: The12Volt.com 1996 4Runner Table

Based on that, I was hooking my green and red wires from the new system (on the side connector) to the Red/White and Red/Yellow wires on the kick panel..

To add to my confusion, I was also confused about exactly which wire was "Red/Yellow".. There was one wire that looked like a red wire with a thin yellow (almost orange) line on it and another that was a yellow wire with a thin red line on it. I tried using either, along with wiring it to the obvious red/white one, but with no luck..

I'm starting to wonder what this "Lock Trigger" wire is that the table of info at the 12 Volt is talking about.. Does it matter? Should I be hooking something to it? I don't know. What is a "Lock Trigger"?

In addition, there is a white connector down under the kick plate that has a black lever on it that allows you to connect all of these wires. I originally wired the new system in towards the front of the car, in relation to the switch. When none of my combinations worked, I decided that maybe I needed to wire it behind that big connector for some reason. Unfortunately that didn't work either.

Below you can see a picture of the area I'm talking about..

My4Runner_wiring.jpg


In this picture, you can hopefully see the three wires I've tried to use, as well as the large white connector I'm talking about. The green wire is connected to the obvious red/white wire. The red wire is currently connected to the "yellow on red" wire, but you can see the "red on yellow" wire right behind it. I've tried connecting the red wire to either of those two with no luck..

I'm starting to wonder if I'm not missing something obvious, like using the wrong wires under the kick plate, or something silly like that.

Any help would be most appreciated. I'm so close I can taste it!

Thanks!
 
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Try finding the lock/unlock elsewhere. Directechs lists the lock/unlock in a 10 pin plug left of the fusebox.

Also, you should test every wire before you go and just start hooking wires to them. If you have a volt meter you can do a continuity test on the lock/unlock wires by placing one test lead to ground and the other to the suspected wire. The press and hold the lock/unlock (which ever wire you are testing) switch and if that is the right wire, the meter will beep. If not, wrong wire.
 
Thanks for the tips! Unfortunately I didn't have anything to test them with.

I did however stumble upon the proper wires.. The12Volt.com steered me wrong! And Directechs would have as well. They were actually in a connector below and on the right of the fuse box.

Here is a picture for anyone else who decides to install this unit in a 1996 model:

My4Runner_wiring2.jpg


I hope someone finds this useful.

Luckily it doesn't seem like I messed anything up splicing these lock/unlock leads into about 8 incorrect wires. My low tech approach was having to rely on the process of elimination. Not too smart!

Thanks to all of your for your assistance! I really appreciate your time. The good news is that I am now locking and unlocking like a champ! I couldn't have done it without you guys!

Mojoski
 
Elton H said:
thats not where the door lock wires are there up farther .... i will take a pic of mine later on today
Click to expand...

Well, they must extend down here because my lock/unlock is now working perfectly with the configuration shown in my last picture..

Would love to see what you're talking about, though. Please do still post that pic. Might be helpful for the next person to try this install...
 
my door lock/unlock wires are here on the blue plug im guessing there all a little diff but thats where they are for a 98
b77226c1.jpg~original
 
Elton,

Thanks for the picture! Is that behind the driver's kick plate? It looks like it from the photo but just wanted to ask to make sure..

That is definitely different than the 1996 model. That could be what led to the incorrect info being posted on the12Volt.com for the 1996..

Thanks!

Mojoski

Elton H said:
my door lock/unlock wires are here on the blue plug im guessing there all a little diff but thats where they are for a 98
Click to expand...
 
yes it is behind the kick but like ive said i think there all a little diff year to year but it makes since since those wires go to the unlock button on the drives side which unlocks and locks all the doors
 
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