remote start bypass question

Make sure the black/white from 4105 is grounded. Make sure the brown wire is connected to the brake or disconnect it to verify. I'd disconnect the grey wire for the 4105.

Basically the only things that can prevent it from starting are.

1: Hood pin is seeing ground.
2: Brake is activated
3: Neutral safety is not seeing ground
4: if the proper ignition wires are not connected


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Ok well tomorrow I'll cut out the Grey wire. I didn't install the pin bc I couldn't get to the engine bay

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Also my horn didn't honk when I lock and unlock doors. I figure that would be automatic. All I need is honking with locks and remote start with parking lights turned on. I think I did that right

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Oh and you mentioned the red and white wire from the car as hot. Yet my system has two. So I put one power (red) to one split end and one to the other so the unit is in series. Everything else was pigtailed so I'm also unsure of that

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mendozer said:
Also my horn didn't honk when I lock and unlock doors. I figure that would be automatic. All I need is honking with locks and remote start with parking lights turned on. I think I did that right

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Click to expand...



You can program the horn to honk or not. If you hold down the lock button it should sound the horn that'll let you know if it's hooked up right.


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K I'll check that when I get back home. I did ground the black n white between a screw and the metal bracket behind it (one that holds the air tube in)

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Ok I cut the Grey and splice the originals back. Still nothing. I can't start the car with my key either! I'm going to try adding one of the other power wires since my relay had two

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Ok I added the white line from the car into the other red from the remote harness. Grounds good greys cut brown is spliced to the brake. Still not working. Horn is fine now only in panic mode

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OK here's what I had to do. Black ground from the clifford main harness was taped up with extra wires. That was added to my ground screw along with the black/white neutral. I also ran one power from the clifford to the red/white toyota and the other red to the toyota white. this ended up being a nightmare wire-wise since I originally used one red line on two ends of the red/white toyota, so there's some random 12 gauge wire in there twisted up.
Again, I disconnected the hood switch. I never really understood the purpose of those anyways. My car starts, someone's gonna steal it by popping the hood?

After all that...EUREKA!!! It starts. I even did a little dance on my driveway :rockon:

What I was trying to do was program it. But it's getting late and I'm not going to have my horn honking all night figuring this out.

Programming questions for the menus:
1. horn function. does that mean it chirps with lock and unlock? or just when doing remote start?
2. double pulse lock or unlock. what is this?
3. park light output says constant is the default yet my lights don't come on at all.

And If I'm reading this right, the valet button gets held until desired menu honks, then again until feature honks, then again until desired option honks.
 

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ok crap no eureka moment. Driving in this morning it was trying to unlock (clicking) the entire time. I messed with it at lunch holding down the valet button until it honked long then it stopped. Then I used the remote starter again to see if it was solved and it clicked again. I could not fix it with the valet button this time.

So I went home and after some deliberation, switched my blue/green wires from the clifford from the previously done red and red/white unlock and lock wired from the door harness to the brown/white and green/yellow wires under the fuse box. These are listed on other diagrams as the lock/unlock wires. They also mention a blue/yellow to act as an activation wire and that they both need to be wired up with diode isolate. IDK what the heck that means.

Anyways, after this lock and unlock wire change the starter won't work! It cranks over then stalls out. I can manually start the car though. And as I did this, no LED flashes from the device. I'm kinda stuck now.
 
mendozer said:
ok crap no eureka moment. Driving in this morning it was trying to unlock (clicking) the entire time. I messed with it at lunch holding down the valet button until it honked long then it stopped. Then I used the remote starter again to see if it was solved and it clicked again. I could not fix it with the valet button this time.

So I went home and after some deliberation, switched my blue/green wires from the clifford from the previously done red and red/white unlock and lock wired from the door harness to the brown/white and green/yellow wires under the fuse box. These are listed on other diagrams as the lock/unlock wires. They also mention a blue/yellow to act as an activation wire and that they both need to be wired up with diode isolate. IDK what the heck that means.

Anyways, after this lock and unlock wire change the starter won't work! It cranks over then stalls out. I can manually start the car though. And as I did this, no LED flashes from the device. I'm kinda stuck now.
Click to expand...

For the not remote starting part, try to relear the tach signal by starting it with the key then holding down the valet button untill the light on the 4105 comes on and release valet and shut off the car.
 
mendozer said:
ok crap no eureka moment. Driving in this morning it was trying to unlock (clicking) the entire time. I messed with it at lunch holding down the valet button until it honked long then it stopped. Then I used the remote starter again to see if it was solved and it clicked again. I could not fix it with the valet button this time.

So I went home and after some deliberation, switched my blue/green wires from the clifford from the previously done red and red/white unlock and lock wired from the door harness to the brown/white and green/yellow wires under the fuse box. These are listed on other diagrams as the lock/unlock wires. They also mention a blue/yellow to act as an activation wire and that they both need to be wired up with diode isolate. IDK what the heck that means.

Anyways, after this lock and unlock wire change the starter won't work! It cranks over then stalls out. I can manually start the car though. And as I did this, no LED flashes from the device. I'm kinda stuck now.
Click to expand...


If the locks are cycling really fast it may be a ground issue and its trying to rob the ground from another source that can't support the load. I've had that happen if a ground comes loose. Makes sure its to bear metal on the body, not a bracket.
 
Scallywag303 said:
Where are you getting blue/yellow and green/yellow from? I don't see those listed on the sheet for unlock or disarm?
Click to expand...

1999-2002*Toyota*4-Runner*Vehicle Wiring Chart and Diagram

this was my first wiring sheet before you gave me the other. the red and red/white you listed for lock and unlock are at the door harness. The other colors i mentioned are higher up the chain by the fuse box. I didn't have the colors for the factory alarm arm/disarm like your sheet indicated so I went with the lock/unlock combo
 
Scallywag303 said:
For the not remote starting part, try to relear the tach signal by starting it with the key then holding down the valet button untill the light on the 4105 comes on and release valet and shut off the car.
Click to expand...

I will try this in the AM as well as double check the ground. So what tape it to a part of the body panel?
 
mendozer said:
1999-2002*Toyota*4-Runner*Vehicle Wiring Chart and Diagram



this was my first wiring sheet before you gave me the other. the red and red/white you listed for lock and unlock are at the door harness. The other colors i mentioned are higher up the chain by the fuse box. I didn't have the colors for the factory alarm arm/disarm like your sheet indicated so I went with the lock/unlock combo
Click to expand...



Gotcha, if the factory alarm and disarm wires aren't present then you can disregard those. The locks should function fine in the door harness and no need to mess with isolating them. For ground I use a ring terminal and self tapping screw (very short) in the kick panel with a star washer underneath and works great.


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Ok I'll give it a shot tomorrow morning. I get home late tonight. I'll do the ground first then explore the options of redoing the lock wires and tach reset if it doesn't solve it. This morning the led was just flashing costantly.

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Well not constant but continual flashing. Sorry i didn't mean it's always on


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