remote start bypass question

[Scallywag303]

Yes, that's what I meant flashing. If it was on constant it would be in valet mode


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[mendozer]

Oh ok so flashing is good

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[mendozer]

I regrounded it and now nothing works. Wtf. I can't reset tach or anything now

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[Scallywag303]

Hmm it's either a bad ground or blown fuse.


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[mendozer]

Ok I found a loose connection in the ignition harness. Idk how bur the crump wasn't good I guess. I redid it a different way and taped the hell out of it. Now it starts with key but not remote. No diagnostic flashing either. Ground is on bare metal with a screw so it's solid. I started to relocate the lock and unlock wires this morning but had to leave for work. Luckily my wife didn't work. I'm going to finish moving those then I'll be back to where I started with a better ground. From there I can see if something else changes. I really don't get what's going on with the minimal changes I'm doing. All my wire color matching is correct


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[mendozer]

OK got it! I honestly think that after moving the door wires back and checking fuses, the problem was I was checking it while sitting there on my stool by the door to check the flashing LED. I didn't even think about it (the driver door was opened) so that must have been it. I closed the door, started right up. Also, I think a few time I barely put the battery terminal on the post since I was frequently taking it on and off.

I had one failed start after all this, but a second button press started it up. It's a cold morning so maybe that's it.

So.....it was probably the bad ground switch all along since that's really the only thing that's changed NOW. Things were moved back and forth but now that's the remaining change. FWIW I did try to reset the tach as well, but the LED didn't flash after the 3-5 seconds like it's supposed to. I also need to figure out how to make it chirp the horn with lock and unlock AND flash the parking lights upon remote start.



So it works, but I need to figure out why the other things aren't working. I had the light flash output from the main 9 pin harness go to my parking lights on the car. and the horn works because the panic button works.

 

[mendozer]

Some issues still having...

1. if I manually lock the doors when leaving, then the remote can't unlock the doors.

2. remote starts are if at best, 2nd or 3rd effort sometimes other times on 1st.

3. still can't get lights to flash or horn to honk with lock/unlock

 

[mendozer]

going to revive this thread because it won't work now. It was fidgety last winter, maybe starting on the 2nd try (cliffords try three times before shutting off).

I re-did a bad connection (twist connector junction), so I soldered it. It still won't start well. Sometimes it starts on the 3rd try, other times not at all. What can I look for?

Also,

that wiring diagram on page one listes Toyota white as 2nd 12 volts. My directed wire chart lists pink and pink/white as power. I was never sure about this, so both toyota wires are spliced into. Is that maybe the reason?

 

[Killer Squirrel]

Thread revival... Doing an install of Clifford 5305X, I've been at it a couple days and just about got it all working. For some reason when I trigger the remote start, the driver's side front door unlocks, the car starts, then locks again. I'm not sure what else to do so that the door never unlocks in the first place, any ideas? I have tried hooking the factory disarm wire from the alarm to the disarm wire on the T4R harness and also to the wire sense (as suggested earlier in this thread) and neither kept the door from unlocking temporarily when remote start was triggered.

Also, I can't find the wires for either the trunk pin or the hood pin. Do all 4Rs have those pins built into the release latch or something?