Amirocassar
New member
*WARNING: I am not responsible for any damage done to your vehicle, to you, or to anyone or anything around you. I warn you to check everything multiple times before cutting, connecting, or etc.*
Hey guys, I was a bit puzzled about installing a remote starter, but bit the bullet and along with my father(an Aircraft Mechanic) it went easy a pie! Only a "minor" issue, that I will address further down(so it makes sense and doesn't scare/confuse you).
First off, there's a few NECESSARY things you need. I installed a Crimestopper Rs4-G4, so obviously I'll include that manual as my reference.
The manual, along with many others I've read, are pretty vague; but I decided to just follow the wiring diagram, since it was plain and simple(lacked weird grammar/didn't make sense).
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/71iYiXyIroS.pdf
Of course you will need a wiring diagram for your cars electrical, I downloaded 2 in order to cross-reference and make sure they were the same(meaning, one didn't have an error).
Toyota*4-runner Car Alarm Wiring Information
As a 2002 4Runner owner, obviously I picked the 2002 4runner wiring, but I think many of the 3rd gens are the same.
Step 1
or at least what I did first) I examined all the wires, made sure everything looked good and visibly working, the thing is you can't even tell if you have a faulty unit until you hook it up(of course this is rare).
Step 2: I decided to do butt connectors versus soldering, because it would take longer, has the potential to make the wires frail, and of course... If you mess up, try desoldering versus soldering..
Step 3: I started with the 6pin high current to get it out of the way. I stripped the two wires(just enough), and took the two and put them each into a terminal ring tongue and crimped it. Took the two of them and screwed them into a screw terminal my father bought at Autozone.
Step 4: I did the starter wire, which is the Brown for my specific remote starter unit, and hooked it up to this wire: "STARTER GREEN/BLACK (+) or BLACK (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS"(From the wiring diagram). I believe it was green/black. Used butt connectors to hook the wire up to it.
Step 5: Gray wire went to the ACC(Accessory), and for my vehicle I only had one. Obviously crimped/butt connected it. ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 1 BLUE/RED (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Step 6: The pink/white wire is "optional", meaning it can be used for Start 2, ign 2, acc 2. Again, this is for this specific unit and for my vehicle I had 2 ignition wires, but only 1 starter and 1 ACC. So this one went to the IGNITION 2 BLACK/RED (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS.
PLEASE remember that vehicles may have different wiring and you cannot just STRICTLY go off of what I've written. Colors may be different or the purposes may be different.
Step 7: Pink went to Ignition 1 (going to stop copying and pasting, getting lazy and you get the point by now).. If you don't, well then I don't suggest you to do this.
Step 8:To make this shorter and sweet, for the 12pin wire. I followed protocol for the wires purpose, to the correct wire on the vehicle diagram. (Remember, if something doesn't look right. Take a break and do some googling, you don't want to make an unnecessary mistake, although those are sometimes fixable).
Step 9: What wires I didn't use for MY SPECIFIC VEHICLE: Well I didn't use the trunk pop(Brown), because my 4runner doesn't have the feature(bummer). I didn't use the tach wire(red/white), because it's purely optional and would've been a b*tch to figure out how to hook it up. The Glow plug, I didn't use at all. And orange/black and orange weren't used at all, since my car has no alarm.
For my remote starter, it had a low current 3pin plug, which I still don't totally get(I'm assuming it's for newer/fancier vehicles?) I didn't use it at all.
As for the door locks, I'm assuming that all 4runners have negative door locks, as mine did and apparently most imports do. But again, you NEED TO CHECK. And you can always look up how to test what type of polarity a door lock is with a multimeter. For my car it said: GREEN/YELLOW and BLUE/YELLOW (TYPE B) Use both, See NOTE #3", now I can't remember what I exactly did here... Because I only used one wire after testing, I'll try and look tomorrow in the morning which wire is was exactly. I think one of the unlock wires is possibly just for the drivers door? When you put in the key and it unlocks the single door? Not sure... But yeah I didn't use both, and it works fine.
I was confused about the yellow/black since it's suppose to be for anti-grind AND bypass, and I thought I needed a bypass. From all the threads, info, and the websites themselves they told me I did. Well apparently I didn't, because I didn't hook it up at all. As for the anti-grind, the minor problem we had was the over-cranking,(I'll explain hold on) when I had the car remote started and simulated entering the vehicle and putting the key in starting the car it overcranked and died. This isn't what it's SUPPOSE to do, which I knew this and it was a test. My relay wasn't the right relay, due to their horrible instructions. So I ordered a 5pin 30/40 automotive relay on ebay for 1.99. That should be here any day now and will solve this issue. To explain what anti-grind does and prevents: If you remote start your vehicle, then enter your vehicle, and habitually(without thinking) try to start the car even though it's already on, you would typically "kill it", due to the starter grinding. Now what this relay does, is prevents this. When you enter, you can turn the key all the way and the starter will not grind, this is the safety feature. Also, since it was the wrong relay, I couldn't start my car with my actual key, only my remote starter button. And remember, most of these systems come with brake kill, so if you enter the vehicle and hit the brake before you put your key in; then the engine gets killed.
12v power: I went and got some heavy gauge wiring, I think it was 12 or 14(I matched the wire from the 6pin) and ran it through the hole on the otherside of the dash on the drivers side(other wires are running through there in looms). The end going to get power, my father put into a terminal ring on it and removed the bolt going to the fuse box(which showed constant 12v) and screwed it back down there. We loomed the wire up to the hole for safety. The other end of the wire got put into a terminal ring as well and got put into the screw terminal right next to(on the same terminal) that the two heavy gauge wires from the unit were on. Used... Oh God.. oh now I remember! We used washers that fit(yes they were metal, duh).
Hoodpin: I took the hoodpin and taped it to the red wire going for the voltage(under the hood), to pull it through and then grab it and string it all the way through. Put a spade connector on it, and hooked it to the botton of the hood pin, I used one of the factory holes in the front. Remember to sand the spot very good, as the paint and paint protection solution(w.e they used) can effect the ground. I believe the hood pin is considered positive when it's raised, and ground when it's pushed. I used some playdoh to test the height of the hood when dropped so I wouldn't break it. So now, if the car is remote started and the hood is opened. It'll kill it. If the hood is open, and remote start is attempted, it will not happen. This is a safety feature, since someone might have a kid playing with their keys and as they have their hands under the hood, and typically the engine would start, but with this it won't (unless you use the key of course).
Apologies guys if this was confusing at all, vague, or inadequate. I just wanted to try and help some people out, and I mainly did this for a couple reasons. 1). New York(when I go off to college) will be cold as hell in the winter, so this will allow me to be warm until the car heats up. 2). I got my 02 4runner without a door lock/unlock dongle, which would've cost me like 35 dollars used. 3). It's just freaking cool! 4). If a thief is near my car, or someone I don't want near my car. Who the hell is going to think an older vehicle like that is going to start?
If you have questions, I'll try my best to help and I hope I didn't forget anything. I may take pictures eventually... I just can't right now, the wiring is a mess! We're waiting for the relay until we tape some stuff up and use wire ties.
As for a ground for some of the things, we used a bolt near the drivers kick panel(not sure if that's what it is, I'm tired...) It's right near your left foot, and behind that plastic is this little metal bar, that has a bolt. Tested the bolt and it was a very good ground. Don't use factory grounds!!
Stay safe, and remember I'm not at fault of liable for anything you do!
Peace
Hey guys, I was a bit puzzled about installing a remote starter, but bit the bullet and along with my father(an Aircraft Mechanic) it went easy a pie! Only a "minor" issue, that I will address further down(so it makes sense and doesn't scare/confuse you).
First off, there's a few NECESSARY things you need. I installed a Crimestopper Rs4-G4, so obviously I'll include that manual as my reference.
The manual, along with many others I've read, are pretty vague; but I decided to just follow the wiring diagram, since it was plain and simple(lacked weird grammar/didn't make sense).
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/71iYiXyIroS.pdf
Of course you will need a wiring diagram for your cars electrical, I downloaded 2 in order to cross-reference and make sure they were the same(meaning, one didn't have an error).
Toyota*4-runner Car Alarm Wiring Information
As a 2002 4Runner owner, obviously I picked the 2002 4runner wiring, but I think many of the 3rd gens are the same.
Step 1
or at least what I did first) I examined all the wires, made sure everything looked good and visibly working, the thing is you can't even tell if you have a faulty unit until you hook it up(of course this is rare).Step 2: I decided to do butt connectors versus soldering, because it would take longer, has the potential to make the wires frail, and of course... If you mess up, try desoldering versus soldering..
Step 3: I started with the 6pin high current to get it out of the way. I stripped the two wires(just enough), and took the two and put them each into a terminal ring tongue and crimped it. Took the two of them and screwed them into a screw terminal my father bought at Autozone.
Step 4: I did the starter wire, which is the Brown for my specific remote starter unit, and hooked it up to this wire: "STARTER GREEN/BLACK (+) or BLACK (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS"(From the wiring diagram). I believe it was green/black. Used butt connectors to hook the wire up to it.
Step 5: Gray wire went to the ACC(Accessory), and for my vehicle I only had one. Obviously crimped/butt connected it. ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 1 BLUE/RED (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Step 6: The pink/white wire is "optional", meaning it can be used for Start 2, ign 2, acc 2. Again, this is for this specific unit and for my vehicle I had 2 ignition wires, but only 1 starter and 1 ACC. So this one went to the IGNITION 2 BLACK/RED (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS.
PLEASE remember that vehicles may have different wiring and you cannot just STRICTLY go off of what I've written. Colors may be different or the purposes may be different.
Step 7: Pink went to Ignition 1 (going to stop copying and pasting, getting lazy and you get the point by now).. If you don't, well then I don't suggest you to do this.
Step 8:To make this shorter and sweet, for the 12pin wire. I followed protocol for the wires purpose, to the correct wire on the vehicle diagram. (Remember, if something doesn't look right. Take a break and do some googling, you don't want to make an unnecessary mistake, although those are sometimes fixable).
Step 9: What wires I didn't use for MY SPECIFIC VEHICLE: Well I didn't use the trunk pop(Brown), because my 4runner doesn't have the feature(bummer). I didn't use the tach wire(red/white), because it's purely optional and would've been a b*tch to figure out how to hook it up. The Glow plug, I didn't use at all. And orange/black and orange weren't used at all, since my car has no alarm.
For my remote starter, it had a low current 3pin plug, which I still don't totally get(I'm assuming it's for newer/fancier vehicles?) I didn't use it at all.
As for the door locks, I'm assuming that all 4runners have negative door locks, as mine did and apparently most imports do. But again, you NEED TO CHECK. And you can always look up how to test what type of polarity a door lock is with a multimeter. For my car it said: GREEN/YELLOW and BLUE/YELLOW (TYPE B) Use both, See NOTE #3", now I can't remember what I exactly did here... Because I only used one wire after testing, I'll try and look tomorrow in the morning which wire is was exactly. I think one of the unlock wires is possibly just for the drivers door? When you put in the key and it unlocks the single door? Not sure... But yeah I didn't use both, and it works fine.
I was confused about the yellow/black since it's suppose to be for anti-grind AND bypass, and I thought I needed a bypass. From all the threads, info, and the websites themselves they told me I did. Well apparently I didn't, because I didn't hook it up at all. As for the anti-grind, the minor problem we had was the over-cranking,(I'll explain hold on) when I had the car remote started and simulated entering the vehicle and putting the key in starting the car it overcranked and died. This isn't what it's SUPPOSE to do, which I knew this and it was a test. My relay wasn't the right relay, due to their horrible instructions. So I ordered a 5pin 30/40 automotive relay on ebay for 1.99. That should be here any day now and will solve this issue. To explain what anti-grind does and prevents: If you remote start your vehicle, then enter your vehicle, and habitually(without thinking) try to start the car even though it's already on, you would typically "kill it", due to the starter grinding. Now what this relay does, is prevents this. When you enter, you can turn the key all the way and the starter will not grind, this is the safety feature. Also, since it was the wrong relay, I couldn't start my car with my actual key, only my remote starter button. And remember, most of these systems come with brake kill, so if you enter the vehicle and hit the brake before you put your key in; then the engine gets killed.
12v power: I went and got some heavy gauge wiring, I think it was 12 or 14(I matched the wire from the 6pin) and ran it through the hole on the otherside of the dash on the drivers side(other wires are running through there in looms). The end going to get power, my father put into a terminal ring on it and removed the bolt going to the fuse box(which showed constant 12v) and screwed it back down there. We loomed the wire up to the hole for safety. The other end of the wire got put into a terminal ring as well and got put into the screw terminal right next to(on the same terminal) that the two heavy gauge wires from the unit were on. Used... Oh God.. oh now I remember! We used washers that fit(yes they were metal, duh).
Hoodpin: I took the hoodpin and taped it to the red wire going for the voltage(under the hood), to pull it through and then grab it and string it all the way through. Put a spade connector on it, and hooked it to the botton of the hood pin, I used one of the factory holes in the front. Remember to sand the spot very good, as the paint and paint protection solution(w.e they used) can effect the ground. I believe the hood pin is considered positive when it's raised, and ground when it's pushed. I used some playdoh to test the height of the hood when dropped so I wouldn't break it. So now, if the car is remote started and the hood is opened. It'll kill it. If the hood is open, and remote start is attempted, it will not happen. This is a safety feature, since someone might have a kid playing with their keys and as they have their hands under the hood, and typically the engine would start, but with this it won't (unless you use the key of course).
Apologies guys if this was confusing at all, vague, or inadequate. I just wanted to try and help some people out, and I mainly did this for a couple reasons. 1). New York(when I go off to college) will be cold as hell in the winter, so this will allow me to be warm until the car heats up. 2). I got my 02 4runner without a door lock/unlock dongle, which would've cost me like 35 dollars used. 3). It's just freaking cool! 4). If a thief is near my car, or someone I don't want near my car. Who the hell is going to think an older vehicle like that is going to start?
If you have questions, I'll try my best to help and I hope I didn't forget anything. I may take pictures eventually... I just can't right now, the wiring is a mess! We're waiting for the relay until we tape some stuff up and use wire ties.
As for a ground for some of the things, we used a bolt near the drivers kick panel(not sure if that's what it is, I'm tired...) It's right near your left foot, and behind that plastic is this little metal bar, that has a bolt. Tested the bolt and it was a very good ground. Don't use factory grounds!!
Stay safe, and remember I'm not at fault of liable for anything you do!
Peace
