Hi guys, has anyone had an issue with their remote start only running for around 10 sec and then dieing? It then restarts and repeats the process. I've got an avital 4103 and I tried changing the mode from virtual tach to voltage sense and it still dies. But if I turn the ignition to "ON" it will stay running even if I remove the key. I'm using a xk05 bypass and it was working fine yesterday but now it won't start the truck without a key in the ignition. The only thing I have done was replace the battery.
Remote Starter Issues
- Thread starter Erich_121
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
riceandpho
Elite Member
Avital still makes alarms? Did you install yourself or paid installer to do it?
What is engine checking mode? Looks like I will have to try and use the tach mode. So do you think this is why it's turning off after 10 seconds? I am installing the avital 4103 remote starter myself.
As for my other issue I have a PKALL coming wed and hopefully that will help with my immobilizer problem.
emmwhat
New member
Yeah I installed a Viper 5901 (made by the same company) about a month or so ago and had the same exact problem, also using the PKALL. I tried relearning the virtual tach and doing a few other things but nothing seemed to work; I searched on google and after what seemed like hours of looking through posts, I found someone saying to turn engine checking mode off. Basically it's what makes sure your engine is running, for some reason our vehicles don't work with Directed's virtual tach and it'll shut the ignition off after about 10 seconds and then try to start again.
I downloaded your installation manual; it looks like you need to set menu 2, feature 1, to option 3.
If you don't have a copy of the installation manual, I found it here http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=avital%204103%20installation%20manual&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CDAQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.directeddealers.com%2Fmanuals%2FIG%2FAvital%2FN4103_2008-07_web.pdf&ei=pwyaUJ7XK8PG0QGKyYCoDA&usg=AFQjCNFJrCgRR02KBPpT7v0wyaa9N0xsuw&cad=rja
That'll tell you how to set it as well.
Hope this helped! Message back if you have any other troubles.
Ok well I ended up buying another unit, a bulldog 500b, because the avital died, wouldn't respond at all. So I have the new unit wired up, double checked my connections and this new one won't activate the door locks or remote start. It clicks when I push the button to unlock or lock but nothing happens. The parking lights flash really quick when this happens. I've just about had it with this truck, I mean what could be going on here? I have installed many other remote starters and never had a problem.
emmwhat
New member
What wires to you use for the door locks? I read somewhere that they require a double pulse, mine didn't, but that's what the wiring diagram stated. Try clicking either the lock or unlock twice really quick and see if that works, if it does I'd imagine your alarm / remote start needs to be programmed for double pulse, if not.. only thing you can do is check the wiring, take the lock and unlock wires out of the alarm and ground one at a time, when you ground them they should cause the car to either lock or unlock, if it does, something's wrong with the bulldog, if it doesn't you probably have the wrong wires from the car. What does it do when you try to remote start? I'm not familiar with the bull dog but I'll try and help out if I can. Where are you located? Anywhere near Baltimore, MD?
Thanks for getting back to me. I'm located in Bangor, ME, a bit out of the way but I appreciate the help. I have had the worst time EVER installing this. So far I've spend 25 hours on this project. Sorry about this super long post.
Good idea on grounding the door lock wires, I didn't even think of that. I used a blue and green wire that was on a 18 pin harness in the drivers side door kick. I know they are the right wires because I had my avital 4103 hooked up to those wires and the door locks would work. The lock is a negative pulse, the unlock is a negative double pulse. I started having issues with the avital when I was installing the xk05 bypass module. The module was pre-installed with the correct firmware for the 4runner when I got it. The module was not bypassing the transponder system and would try and crank the truck for like 8 sec at a time but it would not start. If I put a key in the ignition then the truck would start up and run for 10sec then shut off. So I knew I had an issue with the xk05 not working and another issue which you mentioned in your previous post. This is where the weird stuff started happening.
I used D2D when wiring up the 4103 to the xk05. When I unplugged the xk05 from the 4103 the door locks and remote start would not work. I can't remember if the 4103 would click or not but I know the parking lights flashed very fast, like a weird fast that I hadn't seen before. The remote starter unit would only work when the xk05 was plugged in. Now before I installed the xk05 the door locks did work and the truck would remote start with a key in the ignition. At this point I got very confused what the heck was going on. My conclusion was that the D2D mode was malfunctioning on the 4103 and that I needed to wire it in W2W. Unfortunately once you wire the xk05 for D2D mode the only way to get it to work for W2W mode was to flash the module and I didn't have the hardware to do that. I decided I would just buy a PKALL and try that.
I got the PKALL last week and installed it. Nothing worked. The door locks didn't work and the remote start wouldn't work. It was acting just like before, with the xk05 bypass unplugged. And it didn't matter if the PKALL was plugged in to the 4103 or not, it wouldn't work either way. At this point I in a fit of rage I smashed the avital into many pieces. I ordered the bulldog 500b.
Thinking things would be better I installed the bulldog 500b, double checking all my wires and connections and tried it. Nothing. The door locks didn't work and the remote start didn't work. I'm thinking :wtf: is going on here? I dug out the logic probe that came with the bulldog and used it to check all my wires and all the connections were spot on. I used it to check the output of the 500b for the door locks and it was outputting a strange signal. I would get a flashing green AND red light. I was expecting a flashing green LED, which would indicate a negative trigger, not too sure exactly how that works. Anyway I probed the wires to the door locks, thinking that I should see something when I hit the button for lock and unlock on the probe and I just a solid green LED.
At this point I just wanted to get the remote starter working and screw the door locks. I read the instructions for activating the remote start and I got not much reaction from the 500b. I could hear the relays click when I hit the lock and unlock on the remote but it wouldn't do anything when I hit the remote start. I thought that I might have a wire not grounded such as the neutral safety switch but everything was satisfied. So I decided i would just reset the the 500b to factory defaults. Couldn't do it. In fact, I couldn't program anything. It's like I had the wrong instruction manual or something. I finally thought that there must be something wrong with the 500b so I packaged it up (not smashing it) to return it. I have another 500b that will be here on Wed.
So yah this is the crap I have been dealing with. I'm kicking myself for not just paying a professional to install it but I'm a pretty good with this stuff and I can't figure out for the life of me why it won't work. I mean, what are the chances I would receive 2 defective remote starters?? Any ideas on what I'm missing here? If the door locks are a negative trigger shouldn't they carry 12v all the time and work when it gets grounded? My probe indicated they had a solid green LED. Shouldn't I have seen a red LED on the door lock/unlock wires? But if they were grounded somehow all the time by a bad wire or something how could the door locks still work? Everything works as normal as far as factory operations. Is the immobilizer messing things up? The rep at bulldog said the truck should try to start, the immobilizer cant stop it from trying to start but it can stop from running.
Again very sorry for the long post.
Last edited:
me_rikey
New member
unfortunately i can't help you too much in the current state of your situation; however, i hope you get this figured out, as i have been contemplating installing a remote starter, and using my factory fob -- a lock/ unlock/ lock sequence to give the system three pulses to start. however, i don't want to run into any issues, which i don't think i will since i'm not adding any aftermarket security system, just trying to retain as much of the stock stuff as possible.
Just an update. I got another bulldog 500b today in the mail and just wired it up. It acts exactly the same as the other one indicating there must not be anything wrong with it. So then that means there is something wrong with the truck. What would cause the truck not to start by the remote method?
emmwhat
New member
I've never worked with a bulldog, so I'm not to sure about how to help you there. I can tell you though, the one you had originally, that weird fast blinking when you tried to remote start, that's actually a code, you count how many times it blinks or how many times you hear the relay click (if lights aren't hooked up) and then compare that number with the troubleshooting guide in the installation manual, that'll tell you why it didn't start.
As far as the ignition bypass, it wouldn't start because the thing wasn't programed / working properly, in this case you have to make sure the unit is new, not used, not even once; once this is programed to a car it will not allow you to program it to any other car, directed says it's so people don't use it to steal cars... I'm sure it's just so they can sell more of them. Also, I had a problem programing mine, it said to (I believe) hold down the programming button, then connect the d2d, then connect the ignition wire harness. I kept trying this with no luck at all, ended up I had to hold down the button, connect the ignition wires, THEN the d2d, then go on programing the ignition as normal. I had to try this about 7 or 8 times before it blinked like the installation instructions said it would, then programing to the car worked perfectly.
The reason your car turned off after 10 seconds was most likely because of that programing where the engine sensing mode on your remote start needed to be set to "off". It's a little odd that it would shut off with your key turned to "on" it should only do that if the key was turned to accessory, although the thing is obviously being temperamental so maybe it's affecting that to?
Sorry, I wish I could be more help, I know how frustrating it can be, but without being there hands on, it's kind of hard.
As far as the ignition bypass, it wouldn't start because the thing wasn't programed / working properly, in this case you have to make sure the unit is new, not used, not even once; once this is programed to a car it will not allow you to program it to any other car, directed says it's so people don't use it to steal cars... I'm sure it's just so they can sell more of them. Also, I had a problem programing mine, it said to (I believe) hold down the programming button, then connect the d2d, then connect the ignition wire harness. I kept trying this with no luck at all, ended up I had to hold down the button, connect the ignition wires, THEN the d2d, then go on programing the ignition as normal. I had to try this about 7 or 8 times before it blinked like the installation instructions said it would, then programing to the car worked perfectly.
The reason your car turned off after 10 seconds was most likely because of that programing where the engine sensing mode on your remote start needed to be set to "off". It's a little odd that it would shut off with your key turned to "on" it should only do that if the key was turned to accessory, although the thing is obviously being temperamental so maybe it's affecting that to?
Sorry, I wish I could be more help, I know how frustrating it can be, but without being there hands on, it's kind of hard.
gm350reratliff
New member
I haven't installed alarms/rs in about three years but I will try to help. I've installed a bunch of Avital and DEI stuff. I also have an Avital 4300 and XK05 in my 4Runner and so far haven't had any issues.
The basics. What type of connections are you using, t-taps, scotch locks, solder, wrapping wire with wire? Where are you grounded? Separate grounds for the brain and bypass?
DEI's d2d interface has always been flawed. Don't use it. Grab an injector or coil wire for the tach don't use voltage sensing. That way you can use engine checking like its suppose to be. Not sure on your bulldog but why didn't you use the built-in diagnostics on the avital? Double check your polarity and how much amperage each wire is suppose to put out. I recommend not using that power probe for checking wires. One slip on the button and you can fry stuff. Use a multi-meter.
The basics. What type of connections are you using, t-taps, scotch locks, solder, wrapping wire with wire? Where are you grounded? Separate grounds for the brain and bypass?
DEI's d2d interface has always been flawed. Don't use it. Grab an injector or coil wire for the tach don't use voltage sensing. That way you can use engine checking like its suppose to be. Not sure on your bulldog but why didn't you use the built-in diagnostics on the avital? Double check your polarity and how much amperage each wire is suppose to put out. I recommend not using that power probe for checking wires. One slip on the button and you can fry stuff. Use a multi-meter.
Hey Guys, I really appreciate all the help you have offered on this. It's nice to get some some feedback.
To answer gm350reratiff I am using crimp connectors with the best electrical tape known ( scotch super 33+)
What do you mean "One slip on the button and you can fry stuff." I find the logic probe way more useful the the multimeter for situations like this.
As far as the avital, I kind of wished I hadn't of smashed it to bits. But I think emmwhat is right about about why it wouldn't stay running.
But alas I bought a new remote starter, the bulldog 500b, and have been trying to get that going. I made some great progress today as to what was going on with it.
I was using the logic probe with the + attached to the fuse box and the neg to ground. I was checking the ignition wires for proper voltages when I decided I would try to remote start it without my parking lights wire hooked up. When I removed that wire my logic probe lost power. I thought that was strange so I checked the fuse box with my multimeter and I was showing -10v between the fuse box and ground. I realized what was happening at this point. I had a bad ground. I checked another ground location and I showed +12V at the fuses. What was happening is that the the output of the 500b for the parking lights was feeding the 12V constant for the unit. I assume it back fed this from the 12V that it got from the ignition wires. When it would flash the parking lights it would drop out the 12V causing it to flash fast and in a strange manner. Bad grounds do all sorts of weird stuff like this, I should have recognized this sooner. I used the good ground location for the remote starter and what do you know it worked like it should.
The ground point I had been using was a bracket attached by a bolt to the metal body in the drivers side kick panel. No idea why this was a bad ground. Didn't care to investigate further.
What's confusing is how the heck did the avital start the truck before?? I used this exact same ground location for it.
I had been email tech support for a week now and they never once mentioned check for a bad ground....oh well....:happens:
I probably could have brought this to a place to have it fixed a while ago but I'm just one of those people that just can't give up on something. The more I can't fix or figure something out the harder I try and its a viscous cycle. I do the same thing at work. But there's no better feeling then the feeling of accomplishing it. And I learned a lot in the process.
Next I need to hook up the PKALL and bypass the security.
To answer gm350reratiff I am using crimp connectors with the best electrical tape known ( scotch super 33+)
What do you mean "One slip on the button and you can fry stuff." I find the logic probe way more useful the the multimeter for situations like this.
As far as the avital, I kind of wished I hadn't of smashed it to bits. But I think emmwhat is right about about why it wouldn't stay running.
But alas I bought a new remote starter, the bulldog 500b, and have been trying to get that going. I made some great progress today as to what was going on with it.
I was using the logic probe with the + attached to the fuse box and the neg to ground. I was checking the ignition wires for proper voltages when I decided I would try to remote start it without my parking lights wire hooked up. When I removed that wire my logic probe lost power. I thought that was strange so I checked the fuse box with my multimeter and I was showing -10v between the fuse box and ground. I realized what was happening at this point. I had a bad ground. I checked another ground location and I showed +12V at the fuses. What was happening is that the the output of the 500b for the parking lights was feeding the 12V constant for the unit. I assume it back fed this from the 12V that it got from the ignition wires. When it would flash the parking lights it would drop out the 12V causing it to flash fast and in a strange manner. Bad grounds do all sorts of weird stuff like this, I should have recognized this sooner. I used the good ground location for the remote starter and what do you know it worked like it should.
The ground point I had been using was a bracket attached by a bolt to the metal body in the drivers side kick panel. No idea why this was a bad ground. Didn't care to investigate further.
What's confusing is how the heck did the avital start the truck before?? I used this exact same ground location for it.
I had been email tech support for a week now and they never once mentioned check for a bad ground....oh well....:happens:
I probably could have brought this to a place to have it fixed a while ago but I'm just one of those people that just can't give up on something. The more I can't fix or figure something out the harder I try and its a viscous cycle. I do the same thing at work. But there's no better feeling then the feeling of accomplishing it. And I learned a lot in the process.
Next I need to hook up the PKALL and bypass the security.
Last edited: