repair kit for fuel line to filter

hf342508

New member
So...I thought replacing the fuel filter would be quick and painless; boy was I wrong. One of the flare nuts was seized up and I pretty much stripped the head.

I want to get a repair kit, basically replacing the connector to the fuel filter and coupling a few inches of line to the old line. I need a 14mm nut by 3/8" line. Anybody know where I can find this? I'm stopping by NAPA today...
 
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So...I thought replacing the fuel filter would be quick and painless; boy was I wrong. One of the flare nuts was seized up and I pretty much stripped the head.

I want to get a repair kit, basically replacing the connector to the fuel filter and coupling a few inches of line to the old line. I need a 14mm nut by 3/8" line. Anybody know where I can find this? I'm stopping by NAPA today...

Can't help ya really, but mine was similar. I eventually got it on and tight though. I'm never replacing it again.
 
So...I thought replacing the fuel filter would be quick and painless; boy was I wrong. One of the flare nuts was seized up and I pretty much stripped the head.

I want to get a repair kit, basically replacing the connector to the fuel filter and coupling a few inches of line to the old line. I need a 14mm nut by 3/8" line. Anybody know where I can find this? I'm stopping by NAPA today...

You get anywhere with this? I've got the same issue. Rear line broke loose without messing up the nut, but front line I'm starting to round off the nut, so stopped before it got too bad.

I tried NAPA and O-Reilly's for a "fuel line repair kit", but they had nothing that would fit the filter.

I got a compression union... thinking of cutting the line and getting the filter on the bench where I can stick it in the vice and work it loose hopefully:shrug:
 
I think you guys are looking to replace some of that line and use flared end couplings, if I remember correctly... but you did the right thing by attempting to replace the filter, they are most assuredly NOT lifetime parts like Toyota would have us believe!
 
that is what happens when you live in rust. use flare nut wrenches on those lines and soak them forever before trying to remove. i lived in chicago all my life and that is what i did for this stuff.
 
that is what happens when you live in rust.

Most people have no idea what we have to deal with, rusted fuel lines, brake lines and frame rails on these Toyotas :crybaby:

Well I knocked this out this morning.

This is what I did, it's working for now, ha, ha.

The rear fitting broke loose eventually, so no issues there. Front one was rusted solid. Worked it with PBlaster and this "Freeze-Off" stuff by CRC over a period of a month and got no where. Yes, I used a flare nut wrench, but that started to round the nut, had to get down to some ViceGrips.

Ended up cutting the line and pulling the filter. It came loose pretty easy once I had it in the vice. Line is rusted to the nut, which is what usually happens.

Then used a 5/16" compression union. I think the line is 8mm, but 5/16" will work.

IMG_20131010_115746_zps2a3fc183.jpg~original
 
For those with rust issues. Ive been using a 50/50 mixture of acetone and transmission fluid. My truck spent the beginning of its life in the Northeast so I have a bit of a rust issue as well.
 
i don't know what year your truck is, but my 01 has a 2 piece line. the one coming from the tank, part of it is plastic with a connector that the steel one connects to, then to the filter, like ford and gm's have.
 
I was seeking some help today. 97 4-runner 2.7. Changed the fuel filter (should have left it alone :). Now have hard start on warm or hot engine. I want to install a check valve on the supply ( larger diameter tubing ) side. Does anyone know what thread type the 14 mm sized female is. Is it JIS ? SAE ? AN ? What thread size ?
I am trying to put an inline check valve at that location, between the female 14 mm and the male connector.
 
I was seeking some help today. 97 4-runner 2.7. Changed the fuel filter (should have left it alone :). Now have hard start on warm or hot engine. I want to install a check valve on the supply ( larger diameter tubing ) side. Does anyone know what thread type the 14 mm sized female is. Is it JIS ? SAE ? AN ? What thread size ?
I am trying to put an inline check valve at that location, between the female 14 mm and the male connector.
Maybe you're vapor locking, air in line?. Happened after you messed with it. Gotta get those flare nuts tight. I had to replace my fuel line section before the fuel filter (the small section) when I replaced my fuel pump recently. I got new OEM.
 
I had the same issue after buying my t4r. I had to take it the shop for assistance as the nut were so stuck on that I could not mussel them off. After shooting PB on couple of time over an hour, nothing. They wanted to cut the lines and replace with rubber, but decided to wait a day and come back. I came back then next and they strayed PB on it again and low and behold them moved and was able to replace the filter. It has been a couple of months now and I an wondering if I need to go back and replace the connectors in the future and if so what would you suggest? 5/16" tubing to 6 AN, something like this and this?

6AN Nylon Fuel Hose Gas Hose AN6 6-AN Sold By Foot - $5
6AN Male Flare to 5/16 Tube Hose Fitting Adapter Fuel Hard Tubing Line Blue and Red Aluminum Anodized - $11
Toyota (23300-62030) Fuel Filter Assembly - $40

Or something else?

Tube Fuel Main Front - Toyota (77251-3D140) - $44
 
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I had the same issue after buying my t4r. I had to take it the shop for assistance as the nut were so stuck on that I could not mussel them off. After shooting PB on couple of time over an hour, nothing. They wanted to cut the lines and replace with rubber, but decided to wait a day and come back. I came back then next and they strayed PB on it again and low and behold them moved and was able to replace the filter. It has been a couple of months now and I an wondering if I need to go back and replace the connectors in the future and if so what would you suggest? 5/16" tubing to 6 AN, something like this and this?

6AN Nylon Fuel Hose Gas Hose AN6 6-AN Sold By Foot - $5
6AN Male Flare to 5/16 Tube Hose Fitting Adapter Fuel Hard Tubing Line Blue and Red Aluminum Anodized - $11
Toyota (23300-62030) Fuel Filter Assembly - $40

Or something else?

Tube Fuel Main Front - Toyota (77251-3D140) - $44
If you got the filter out and the nuts and lines are ok, leave them in. You could give them a spray of penetrating oil while doing your oil changes and grease jobs, that will keep the nuts from from seizing. Also I make a point of everything I take apart to juice it with some anti seize, makes things easier next time I gotta take it apart so I'm not breaking stuff.
 
If you got the filter out and the nuts and lines are ok, leave them in. You could give them a spray of penetrating oil while doing your oil changes and grease jobs, that will keep the nuts from from seizing. Also I make a point of everything I take apart to juice it with some anti seize, makes things easier next time I gotta take it apart so I'm not breaking stuff.

Thanks I will do that next oil change.
 
I had the same issue after buying my t4r. I had to take it the shop for assistance as the nut were so stuck on that I could not mussel them off. After shooting PB on couple of time over an hour, nothing. They wanted to cut the lines and replace with rubber, but decided to wait a day and come back. I came back then next and they strayed PB on it again and low and behold them moved and was able to replace the filter. It has been a couple of months now and I an wondering if I need to go back and replace the connectors in the future and if so what would you suggest? 5/16" tubing to 6 AN, something like this and this?

6AN Nylon Fuel Hose Gas Hose AN6 6-AN Sold By Foot - $5
6AN Male Flare to 5/16 Tube Hose Fitting Adapter Fuel Hard Tubing Line Blue and Red Aluminum Anodized - $11
Toyota (23300-62030) Fuel Filter Assembly - $40

Or something else?

Tube Fuel Main Front - Toyota (77251-3D140) - $44


You can always cut the fuel line/fittings that are inside the engine bay for the exact fittings and rig up whatever you decide to make work. I'll upload the thread I made on the issue.

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/278526-easier-way-check-fuel-pressure.html#post3378450
 
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In my fleet it can be fun to get anything loose as the rust belt Is hard on things.

What I do is after I get everything moving I keep it coated. I used to use anti seize. That works well. However I switched to fluid film and just keep everything coated with it.


You can use just about any oil or penetrating oil from keeping things for oxidizing. Some will last alot longer then others for preventing rust. Mineral oil, transmission oil will work too.


I even check and lube our front pad pins every 5k to 10k as those can also be a nightmare if they seize and expand. Rotate my tires every 5k too.





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In my fleet it can be fun to get anything loose as the rust belt Is hard on things.

What I do is after I get everything moving I keep it coated. I used to use anti seize. That works well. However I switched to fluid film and just keep everything coated with it.


You can use just about any oil or penetrating oil from keeping things for oxidizing. Some will last alot longer then others for preventing rust. Mineral oil, transmission oil will work too.


I even check and lube our front pad pins every 5k to 10k as those can also be a nightmare if they seize and expand. Rotate my tires every 5k too.





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Yeah same here! Anytime I try to break a bolt loose I soak it for at least 2-3 days with penetrating oil before even thinking about taking it out. Gotta love the rust belt (not).
You ever use fluid film in the frame rails? I'm thinking I'm gonna do mine before winter hits to help with the rust.
Also how many cans do you think it takes? Sorry with all the questions just looking for input from someone who uses it. Thanks!
 
I have an 02 sr5 with Rusted out lines. I have to replace the fuel tank[due to a leak....rust] and the fuel lines going into the filler hose look like they will definitely crumble at the touch. There is a 99 limited at my local pull for parts yard that does not have rust issues. I know 01-02 had a different fuel tank but does anyone know if they have different lines? My truck lived in the northeast for a while and im a Florida boy with no rust experience need help
 
Yeah same here! Anytime I try to break a bolt loose I soak it for at least 2-3 days with penetrating oil before even thinking about taking it out. Gotta love the rust belt (not).

You ever use fluid film in the frame rails? I'm thinking I'm gonna do mine before winter hits to help with the rust.

Also how many cans do you think it takes? Sorry with all the questions just looking for input from someone who uses it. Thanks!
Yes you have to throughly wash out the frame first. Then super soak the inside. Aerosol cans I have no idea as I mostly put a quart or so in each side of the frame rails. The inside it helps. On the outside, sadly it just washes away..:(

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I have an 02 sr5 with Rusted out lines. I have to replace the fuel tank[due to a leak....rust] and the fuel lines going into the filler hose look like they will definitely crumble at the touch. There is a 99 limited at my local pull for parts yard that does not have rust issues. I know 01-02 had a different fuel tank but does anyone know if they have different lines? My truck lived in the northeast for a while and im a Florida boy with no rust experience [emoji23]need help
Do the lines and setup look the same? I know the 96 through 98 lines tank and filler tube are the same. Just not sure if a 99 is like the early years or the late years or 01 and 02.

I would say if the setup looks the same as 01 and 02 then it may work.



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