Repairing the Passenger Side Rear Lower Control Arm Rusty Mount.

[19963.4lsr5]

The drivers side literally broke off the frame a few years ago. It’s fitting that now it’s the passengers side time.

This will be more involved that the drivers side repair.

I’ve been paranoid since I fixed the drivers side mount. Experiencing a weave driving strait for no reason.


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[Sarki]

Ughhhh…..freaking rust never sleeps.
Are you equipped to do it yourself or bringing it to a shop experienced with welding/fabrication.
Good luck with that repair and keep us posted along the way.

 

[MCgrease08]

I just had mine done too.

I had a shop weld in a Safe-T-Cap. They were one of two authorized installers in the state of Indiana. I envy guys skilled and equipped enough to do the repair themselves.

Doesn't the passenger side usually go first because it's next to the hot exhaust pipe?

 

[brillo_76]

I have faith that the OP can get that fixed... He patch that right up. The Safe T caps are one option. Another option is to build your own plates and cut out the rot replacing the rusty steel.

Those Lower rear control arm bracket areas of the frame are always a bad area for the rot.

 

[brillo_76]

I just had mine done too.

I had a shop weld in a Safe-T-Cap. They were one of two authorized installers in the state of Indiana. I envy guys skilled and equipped enough to do the repair themselves.

Doesn't the passenger side usually go first because it's next to the hot exhaust pipe?

Not always but you are correct on the heat and cooling from the exhaust is extremely hard on the steel.

 

[4x3Lander]

This place sells them as a set or individually. Just cut out the old and weld in the new.

Mid-Rear Frame Section (ART-218-S) Set - autorust.com

 

[brillo_76]

We used Safe T caps to rebuild a 03 Tacoma frame. They are a good product.

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[19963.4lsr5]

This place sells them as a set or individually. Just cut out the old and weld in the new.

Mid-Rear Frame Section (ART-218-S) Set - autorust.com

Yep, in a few days I’ll have two of them in my rig.


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[19963.4lsr5]

I just had mine done too.

I had a shop weld in a Safe-T-Cap. They were one of two authorized installers in the state of Indiana. I envy guys skilled and equipped enough to do the repair themselves.

Doesn't the passenger side usually go first because it's next to the hot exhaust pipe?

When I’d actually ran across a 4Runner in the junk yard it was always the drivers side that rusted off. But I only ever ran across thee of them and two were there for drivers side rotted off.


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[19963.4lsr5]

Today I need to remove the running board and the exhaust heat shields. Depending on how long that takes will determine if I start removing metal.


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[Zhehan]

Good luck! Hope it all goes smoothly.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Another picture.

Heading out to fire up the heater and spray all the bolts.


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[nissanh]

Hope the process will go smooth. The rust is what keep me away from PA! Lived in Central PA for 4 years.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Well, the two heat shields are removed with no broken studs.

Time for the running board…..


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[19963.4lsr5]

Here are better pictures with the running boards and heat shields out of the way.

Inside

Outside

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[brillo_76]

The outside of the frame rail kept that control arm from coming off.

I been there and done that. Many many times. Just not with the Safe T cap.

I actually done 3 3rd gen frames so far and getting ready to do another down the road a bit.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

The outside frame rail seems in good shape.

The inner frame is a thinner gauge than the outside. I’ll see how it cleans up.


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[brillo_76]

The outside frame rail seems in good shape.

The inner frame is a thinner gauge than the outside. I’ll see how it cleans up.


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Correct always thinner on the inside rail. It's one of the reason I would replace the bottom and cut out the inside rail. As the salt mostly ate it up. On the original frame.

Great progress you are making on your project.


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[19963.4lsr5]

Correct always thinner on the inside rail. It's one of the reason I would replace the bottom and cut out the inside rail. As the salt mostly ate it up. On the original frame.

Great progress you are making on your project.


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I’m on the shelf with regard’s to needing the entire repair sleeve if all I need to do is replace the inner steel from the lower control arm mount to the cross member for the shock mounts.

The shock mount needs some TLC while I’m in the area.


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[brillo_76]

I’m on the shelf with regard’s to needing the entire repair sleeve if all I need to do is replace the inner steel from the lower control arm mount to the cross member for the shock mounts.

The shock mount needs some TLC while I’m in the area.


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Understandable. I done 2 with just plating.

You can cut out the rot then slide a plate inside to attach it back together then weld a plate over that to Seal it all back together.

This way if using 1/8 plate your end up with 1/4 of steel in like a plywood fashion.

I really wish you lived closer as it's alot easier to do that plating on a car lift...


The shock plate area is one of hardest areas to do. I mostly either plasma cut the front of the frame out and plate the inside then weld it back together.

Or I plate under the coil plate.

Its alot stronger if you just go in front the c side and plate it up good inside. Then a thin plate on the thin side to tie it back together. I have had those coil plate come loose before. You do not want that happening...:/


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