Repairing the Passenger Side Rear Lower Control Arm Rusty Mount.

[19963.4lsr5]

I need about two hood inches of frame at the top to weld the top of the sleeve.

I don’t know if I have that yet.


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[19963.4lsr5]

So, the bottom part of the frame under the lower control arm mount has a rust hole in it.

So if I’m removing the lower control arm mount the sleeve is getting welded in place.


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[19963.4lsr5]

Understandable. I done 2 with just plating.

You can cut out the rot then slide a plate inside to attach it back together then weld a plate over that to Seal it all back together.

This way if using 1/8 plate your end up with 1/4 of steel in like a plywood fashion.

I really wish you lived closer as it's alot easier to do that plating on a car lift...


The shock plate area is one of hardest areas to do. I mostly either plasma cut the front of the frame out and plate the inside then weld it back together.

Or I plate under the coil plate.

Its alot stronger if you just go in front the c side and plate it up good inside. Then a thin plate on the thin side to tie it back together. I have had those coil plate come loose before. You do not want that happening...:/


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I have a 20x20 garage that after I remove the double barn doors and install a center garage door I am hoping to be able to put a lift dead center.

It does suck laying on my back doing this kind of work.


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[19963.4lsr5]

Incase I loose the paper.


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[19963.4lsr5]

It took a SawZaw, right angle grinder and my Fein Multi-Master. I want the Hobart Plasma Cutter with its own air source from TSC.

This was my last blade.


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[Zhehan]

It seems criminal to put salt on the roads if it's going to do that to cars... Holy crap, that's awful.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Time to check fitment of my Safe-T-Cap repair sleeve and see if what’s exposed of the frame is weldable of if I need to replace steel before I make the repair sleeve permanent.


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[Sarki]

Time to check fitment and see if what’s exposed of the frame is weldable of if I need to replace steel before I make the repair sleeve permanent.


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Dang, no wasting time here, you move quickly.
Obviously this ain’t your first rodeo!

 

[brillo_76]

It took a SawZaw, right angle grinder and my Fein Multi-Master. I want the Hobart Plasma Cutter with its own air source from TSC.

This was my last blade.


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This is the blades I use. Diablo from Home Depot. They last longer than any other blade. only I would forget to attach the photo...

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[19963.4lsr5]

Dang, no wasting time here, you move quickly.
Obviously this ain’t your first rodeo!

I edited the above post. I didn’t make the repair sleeve.

I do feel I’m dragging my feet on this.


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[19963.4lsr5]

This is the blades I use. Diablo from Home Depot. They last longer than any other blade.

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I think I’ve used them before. ACE is two miles from me and HomeDepot is 10 miles so I usually stop at ACE first.

That blade suffered from cutting the lower control arm bolt off on my Saturn. I kept hitting the hardened sleeve the bolt was rusted into.


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[19963.4lsr5]

Hitting the inner piece with the wire wheel. Most of the inner steel isn’t needed. The repair sleeve welds to the frame around 1” from the top.


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[brillo_76]

The sleeve will hold it. I just overkill. It's just my nature...

Glad to see you cleaned it up good before putting the sleeve on as that's the best way to do it.

I seen lots of folks just weld it over and call it good. Not realizing the rot is just going to eat their patch too.

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[19963.4lsr5]

Hitting the outside of the frame with my 6” DA and 80 grit. I’ll encapsulate primer and paint the outside of the frame and put a magnet probe in the frame and pull out the rust scale I can reach.

Then put a flapper sanding wheel in the frame and clean up what I can reach.


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[19963.4lsr5]

I also feel like wrapping my muffler in heat wrap to try and keep some of the heat off the frame.


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[brillo_76]

I also feel like wrapping my muffler in heat wrap to try and keep some of the heat off the frame.


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That's probably not a bad idea. As the hot cold cycles is harder on steel making it rust and rot faster.

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[19963.4lsr5]

All rust prep that I could possibly do without a sand blaster is done and stuff needing sealed up and painted is complete. Tomorrow i will install the sleeve and hammer it into place and weld it into place. Hopefully I got the rust removed enough to allow me to weld it without the porosity from rusty metal……


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[thezentree]

Hit it with some weld-through primer or Steelit before you weld the cap on.

Glad you're documenting this step-by-step.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Hit it with some weld-through primer or Steelit before you weld the cap on.

Glad you're documenting this step-by-step.

I did use Steel-It actually.


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[19963.4lsr5]

Some fitment trimming I guess…..

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