19963.4lsr5
New member
I’m probably going to pull it off and grind the lower part of the opening for the body mount and repaint and try again tomorrow.
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Repairing the Passenger Side Rear Lower Control Arm Rusty Mount.
- Thread starter 19963.4lsr5
- Start date
19963.4lsr5
New member
I haven’t found a better electric die grinder other than the big blue Mikita. I’ve replaced the bearings three times so far.
Going to hit the bare steel with paint and put a coat or two of black on the inside.
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19963.4lsr5
New member
When I do crap like this I always hit what I’m paint with a propane torch and burn off the condensation and then hit it with paint while it’s still warm/hot.
Tomorrow morning I’ll check fitment and go from there.
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Tomorrow morning I’ll check fitment and go from there.
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162435
New member
Nice work so far. It's numbing to see the amount of 3rd gen frames ravaged by salt/brine/etc.
If you haven't looked into it already, consider going nuts with Fluid Film under the truck. Within the frame rails, front to back, and everything else under the truck . I try to do it ever year or so to both of my 3rd gens. For inside the frame, I use a long wand and the aerosol FF cans. For the rest of the underside, I use a sprayer hooked to shop air. Any bit helps in the war on corrosion....
Andreas
If you haven't looked into it already, consider going nuts with Fluid Film under the truck. Within the frame rails, front to back, and everything else under the truck . I try to do it ever year or so to both of my 3rd gens. For inside the frame, I use a long wand and the aerosol FF cans. For the rest of the underside, I use a sprayer hooked to shop air. Any bit helps in the war on corrosion....
Andreas
brillo_76
Elite Member
You can get fluid film in 1 gallon and 5 gallon buckets. The issue is it will just wash off. If using it just by itself. You are going to still deal with rust unless you're constantly coating the steel with FF. The steel it product is another encapsulated product just like coroseal does.
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19963.4lsr5
New member
It’s in place and within 1/32-1/16” of where it should be front to back.
Time to burn it in.
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19963.4lsr5
New member
I’m finally off for two days. Sticking it back together.
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brillo_76
Elite Member
Decent weld.. That will work.
I’m finally off for two days. Sticking it back together.
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19963.4lsr5
New member
Trying to finish it up. Since the sleeve wouldn’t bottom out on the frame this is all I could think of doing.
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19963.4lsr5
New member
Trying to finish it up. Since the sleeve wouldn’t bottom out on the frame this is all I could think of doing.
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
19963.4lsr5
New member
Sadly my Roto-Zip gave up the ghost this afternoon grinding the Lower Control arm mount back to expose the repair sleeve to weld it to the frame.
I figured it be dead soon. It’s on its third set of bearings. I’ve beat the crap out of it since I bought it in the early 2000’s. Lately it’s been my Die-Grinder.
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brillo_76
Elite Member
Sadly my Roto-Zip gave up the ghost this afternoon grinding the Lower Control arm mount back to expose the repair sleeve to weld it to the frame.
I figured it be dead soon. It’s on its third set of bearings. I’ve beat the crap out of it since I bought it in the early 2000’s. Lately it’s been my Die-Grinder.
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I was looking for a small die grinder. I have 2 dremels but that roto zip may come in handy...
Good to see you have it within a 1/16 to 1/32. Great job...
19963.4lsr5
New member
It’s welded and painted and on the ground. I need new bolts for the running board so it’s the only thing not finished. I’ll drive it tomorrow to work and see where my steering wheel ends up.
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19963.4lsr5
New member
I was looking for a small die grinder. I have 2 dremels but that roto zip may come in handy...
Good to see you have it within a 1/16 to 1/32. Great job...
I ended up buying a Dremel. The new current Roto-Zip isn’t anywhere close to my old one. Plus the 1 1/2” mini cutoff wheel is what I needed.
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19963.4lsr5
New member
Great job on all of this! On top of that, I hope you enjoy the new SPC lower links.
My steering is now just right of center.
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ruthimperial
New member
I got a crooked steering wheel after just replacing my rear control arm bushings with the Energy suspension poly bushings. I'd say it was off a good 10 degrees, and both the stock bushings and those basically have to 'center' so I'd say if I got that much off with the bushing replacement, you are VERY close to the stock location. Nice job!
19963.4lsr5
New member
The bushings in my old arms were not horrible looking.
When I first went to put the arms in I had to use a come-a-long to get the bolt holes lined up. Laying the old ones on top of the new ones the newer ones looked shorter by about 1/8”.
Edit: other than the steering wheel not being strait ahead the steering is tight and the rig tracks strait over bumps and tire grooves.
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