Replace crank bolt?
- Thread starter BTO
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LittleCaesar
New member
Considering a new one is $10 and under, get one. I believe the FSM calls for it to be replaced.
I bumped the starter using a 16" breaker bar covered by a steel pipe resting against the driver's side frame rail.
I bumped the starter using a 16" breaker bar covered by a steel pipe resting against the driver's side frame rail.
For the love of god, replace it!!! You don't want to go through what I did. The timing belt and water pump were replaced on my T4R a month before I bought it. I put several hundred miles on it, and then one day as I was turning out of an intersection...I had no power. I thought that perhaps I had broken the supercharger belt, as it was barely running. I pulled over and lifted the hood. After inspection, I noticed that the main crank pulley was out of whack. Well, after crawling underneath it, I realized what happened. The bolt backed out, and let the main crank pulley just ride on the edge of the crank. It filed down the woodruff key and over half of the groove that it sits in. I was faced with either tearing down the entire engine to replace the crank, or just replacing the engine. I ended up replacing the engine. Cost me around $3500 for the engine and labor. Even had a friends shop help me with the labor. I think the bolt is around $11. Toooootally worth the insurance. That bolt has to be torqued down to around 220 ft. lbs if I'm not mistaken.
JRZEE2000TR4LTD
Senior Member
I didn't replace mine, just made sure it was torqued properly and put some BLUE (242) Loctite. I didn't know the FSM suggested it at the time so if I had to do it again, for $10, I would replace it. Those pictures are SCARY!
TheDurk
Elite Member
I replaced mine. For less than $10 at the time, why not?
That said, I don't believe it is all that risky to re-use one. They are not torque-to-yield like
head bolts. They are simply pre-coated with Toyota's version of threadlocker, and Toyota
specs all such bolts as non-reusable. If you clean it and apply new threadlocker, you should
be fine--as long as you torque to the 217 ft.lbs. spec.
A number of sources have posted that dealer service shops do not use new bolts, rather they
just renew the threadlocker.
That said, I don't believe it is all that risky to re-use one. They are not torque-to-yield like
head bolts. They are simply pre-coated with Toyota's version of threadlocker, and Toyota
specs all such bolts as non-reusable. If you clean it and apply new threadlocker, you should
be fine--as long as you torque to the 217 ft.lbs. spec.
A number of sources have posted that dealer service shops do not use new bolts, rather they
just renew the threadlocker.
Definitely worth it in my opinion!! That $10 part ended up costing me $3500!! Not to mention having to rent a U-haul truck and trailer to drag it all the way home! I didn't mention that I was at work, 4 hours away when it happened. I also had to pay for a rent-a-car for a week and a half while I was at work. Wasn't able to make a trip all the way to the house for one of my other vehicles.
TheDurk
Elite Member
I strongly suspect that the bolt was not torqued properly, whether it was new or old, to back out like that.
That is, I'd blame the mechanic before I'd blame the bolt.
JRZEE2000TR4LTD
Senior Member
[MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] I was expecting multiple pictures from different angles of the OEM part. LOL
I did kinda want to see if they use red or blue threadlocker however...
TheDurk
Elite Member
It's their own gook. Kind of aqua-colored. Teal?
sterbenlicht
New member
I've done a ton of these timing belts for the dealer, and admittedly, I've never replaced the bolt nor applied thread locker. It does sound like a great idea, and worth the little bit of money and effort to do it, but I can assure you that proper torque is a much much bigger deal than those other secondary precautions. So go ahead and replace it, but for the love of pete, torque it properly.
98OzarksRunner
New member
I've done 4 of these (1 2nd gen, 2 3rd gens, 1 4th gen) and never used a new bolt. The 1st gen (sold) has gone at least 80K (last year saw the guy who bought it), and one of the 2nd gens has gone 50K miles with no problems (the other 2 were recent). My torque wrench didn't go up to 200 lb ft so I used an 18" pipe on the end of a breaker bar and got it as tight as I could (probably a lot more than 215 lb ft).
BTO
Member
Ended up picking up the bolt at the dealer for $7 plus tax. Part number was 90119-16006. There may be a slight amount of red thread locker on it. You can barely see it.
Dealer parts guy needed the VIN number because according to him, the bolt changed in mid 1999, which is what our 4R is.
Dealer parts guy needed the VIN number because according to him, the bolt changed in mid 1999, which is what our 4R is.
^^^:thumb:
01thunder
New member
those are heavy duty heat treated bolts. new or old, if not installed properly, will fail, that goes for any bolt, part, etc. over almost 30 years of wrenching, i've never had one back out, whether it was an import, gm, ford, old, new, whatever. always installed properly with locktite and an impact.
Nothing to do with old bolt and everything to do with proper torque. Unless you use the special crank pulley hold tool or bind the flywheel to keep things from turning you arent gonna properly torque it to 220lbs... Or you can do like most and impact it to probably 400lbs haha...its not gonna come out as long as its very tight but too tight could shear off the head or stretch the bolt but i have a feeling thats probably 1000lbs +
