Replace Stock Hitch - Remove Rear Bumper Cover

[radlynx]

thanks for explaining, i appreciate it. i thought the stock frame is strong enough to handle the load since it's all welded into the frame. I have not seen it so I can't really tell how thick the metal is.

now I understand.

The stock 2" receiver is a load bearing, to use for bike rack ect, 500 lb.
This piece is not on what you would say not mounted on a solid area like your frame.
This is why you get a tow hitch to mount that is solid design and mounts to the frame.

Example... Look at the piece that the stock piece is connected to, thin.
Tow hitch is like 1/4" thick and solid welds.

Another thing, the location of the 7 pin Plug in mounted on the tow hitch is in a bad spot if you decide to off road. It will get hits and damage.

Trust me, done that and have relocated. I do occationaly tow with mine and I drive for a living, ( 18 wheelers).

 

[OrdnanceMarine]

The stock 2" receiver is a load bearing, to use for bike rack ect, 500 lb.
This piece is not on what you would say not mounted on a solid area like your frame.
This is why you get a tow hitch to mount that is solid design and mounts to the frame.

Example... Look at the piece that the stock piece is connected to, thin.
Tow hitch is like 1/4" thick and solid welds.

Another thing, the location of the 7 pin Plug in mounted on the tow hitch is in a bad spot if you decide to off road. It will get hits and damage.

Trust me, done that and have relocated. I do occationaly tow with mine and I drive for a living, ( 18 wheelers).

To clarify a point, I would not ever consider placing a 500lb load on something like a bike rack with the V6 stock "weight bearing" receiver due to the torque you will be placing on the frame crossmember with that kind of lever arm. Towing a trailer with a 500lb tongue weight could be a reasonable thing to do since the tongue weight is pulling straight down and doesn't result in a huge lever arm (even though you will have substantial suspension sag unless you install air bags, etc.). For loads like a two motorcycle hitch hauler (like pictured in ram's post) I'd highly recommend a weight distributing hitch receiver like the OP installed.

 

[having fun]

To clarify a point, I would not ever consider placing a 500lb load on something like a bike rack with the V6 stock "weight bearing" receiver due to the torque you will be placing on the frame crossmember with that kind of lever arm. Towing a trailer with a 500lb tongue weight could be a reasonable thing to do since the tongue weight is pulling straight down and doesn't result in a huge lever arm (even though you will have substantial suspension sag unless you install air bags, etc.). For loads like a two motorcycle hitch hauler (like pictured in ram's post) I'd highly recommend a weight distributing hitch receiver like the OP installed.

I understand your point your getting at, but whether it is a 500 lb bike rack, load rack, or a trailer. You still would have a bouncing down ward weight on it, and towing situation you even have a tug/push force on it.

Just best to use a aftermarket hitch, better safe than sorry. And personally, using a weight distribution hitch piece isn't wise on these rides, your going over what the recommendation of the towing rate, sure it can pull it, but the brakes aren't big enough to properly stop the load
At 5 to 8 k like I have done.

 

[OrdnanceMarine]

I understand your point your getting at, but whether it is a 500 lb bike rack, load rack, or a trailer. You still would have a bouncing down ward weight on it, and towing situation you even have a tug/push force on it.

Just best to use a aftermarket hitch, better safe than sorry. And personally, using a weight distribution hitch piece isn't wise on these rides, your going over what the recommendation of the towing rate, sure it can pull it, but the brakes aren't big enough to properly stop the load
At 5 to 8 k like I have done.

I'm a bit confused by what you're stating. The OEM V6 weight carrying hitch receiver is rated at 500lb tongue weight and 5000lb so Toyota is stating you can tow up to this with the OEM V6 hitch and it is designed to do so within whatever margins Toyota has set. While switching to a weight distributing hitch receiver will give you more margin (so will switching to a 1-ton pickup), it isn't required unless we want to argue about whether Toyota screwed up and overrated the V6 tow rating.

You cannot use a weight distributing hitch with the OEM V6 weight carrying hitch receiver due to the torque that is applied in the upwards direction by the spring bars and since placing 500 lbs from a double-bike rack would apply a similar torque (in the downwards direction instead of upwards) THIS is the reason I would argue against a 500 lb bike rack on the back of a V6 4Runner with the OEM receiver.

As far as I know, the brakes are identical between the V6 and V8 4Runners so if you upgrade the OEM V6 receiver to something like the OEM V8 receiver (weight distributing) then from a stopping perspective both rigs should be equally equipped, right? The V8 is rated at 7300 and 7000 lb, 2WD and 4WD respectively and we are of course assuming that the trailer is properly equipped with trailer brakes, etc.

 

[having fun]

I'm a bit confused by what you're stating. The OEM V6 weight carrying hitch receiver is rated at 500lb tongue weight and 5000lb so Toyota is stating you can tow up to this with the OEM V6 hitch and it is designed to do so within whatever margins Toyota has set. While switching to a weight distributing hitch receiver will give you more margin (so will switching to a 1-ton pickup), it isn't required unless we want to argue about whether Toyota screwed up and overrated the V6 tow rating.

You cannot use a weight distributing hitch with the OEM V6 weight carrying hitch receiver due to the torque that is applied in the upwards direction by the spring bars and since placing 500 lbs from a double-bike rack would apply a similar torque (in the downwards direction instead of upwards) THIS is the reason I would argue against a 500 lb bike rack on the back of a V6 4Runner with the OEM receiver.

As far as I know, the brakes are identical between the V6 and V8 4Runners so if you upgrade the OEM V6 receiver to something like the OEM V8 receiver (weight distributing) then from a stopping perspective both rigs should be equally equipped, right? The V8 is rated at 7300 and 7000 lb, 2WD and 4WD respectively and we are of course assuming that the trailer is properly equipped with trailer brakes, etc.

Sorry for the confusion, the stock setup on the v-6 is capable of the 500 lb load bearing, now if it was designed for also towing 5k not sure on that or even if I would trust it. I have in the past though.

They rate the v-6 at 5k towing in the book, not sure of the v-8, and if the v-8 is rated higher and the brakes are the same, doesn't make sense, unless do to the AWD.

When dot or makers of vehicles have a vehicle, they give a rating due to the brakes. Granted they make bigger/beeffer springs and axleing to support the weight, but, the final determination on load is the brakes. They don't care how much you can pull, or how fast you can do it. It's can you stop that load safely and in control. This is why trailers above 1k have to have brakes on them, to assist in stopping all the weight.

Now when I did a first post on this thread, it was to let others that question about the stock receiver is more of a load bearing than to use it as the 5k rating the manual states.

As my reference to explain what a load bearing hitch to the other member on here, I used the term bike rack for them to understand the point. Sorry if I messed you or any one else up by using that assembly. I personally wouldn't expect to put 500lbs on a folding rack. I personally have a 4 bike rack carrier and still doesn't come into that weight area loaded.

 

[cmoua]

Although this is a old thread it is very helpful. I changed my V6 "hidden hitch" to an aftermarket one to use with a weight distribution hitch for towing a light weight toy hauler.

 

[ben550]

I have an '05 4Runner V-6, with a stock receiver. To help others, I thought I would post some links and info now that my install is done.

I replaced the small stock 2" receiver (that just bolts to the bumper impact bar) with a Hidden Hitch Model 70779. I appreciated e.Trailer's free shipping and quick delivery.

I spent A LOT of time figuring out that I just needed to remove all of the bumper covers (left/center/right) to properly install the hitch. In the end, to remove the upper bolts on the old 2" receiver, you must remove the cover. Also, to install the welded nut assemblies, it is just SO MUCH EASIER to install them through the bumper frame's large holes that are located under the rear bumper cover piece.

The "access" holes the instructions said to use (on the spare tire side of the bumper frame) were TOO SMALL for the welded nut assemblies to pass through. I would have had to cut/grind the welded nut assemblies down to a smaller size to get them in there. Shame on Hidden Hitch for that major flaw. I wonder if the Curt receiver has the same issue with its welded nut assembly.

This video is very useful as it shows how to remove the bumper cover (in the context of accessing the rear bumper lights) on a 2005 4Runner.
Replace 2003-2005 Toyota 4Runner Rear Bumper Reflector , How To Change Install 2004 TO1184101 - YouTube

Thank you to t4r member EMYHRE for posting this info on how to remove the cover. It too was useful, but the video's demonstration of how to remove the cover from the pressure snaps is very useful.

I took off all three cover pieces as one. The video demonstrates removal of the side, so I removed all of the center cover screws as well, and and the three pieces (left, center and right) came off as one large piece. They are connected. Real simple actually. Doing this cleared lots of room after I removed the spare tire (which I suggest).

Here's also the 120 forum's write up on bumper removal.

I'll post some pics later.

The links to the video do not work. Do you still have the video on your bumper cover removal?