Replaced JBL Sub/Added Amp: Install Pics/Info

[thomaspuzio]

do you have pics?

The jl w3 is a way better speaker. I'm not a audio installer but I figured out how to make it fit. Just took s little customization. I would take it back. My w3 8" sounds like a 10" sub!!! I did everything myself. Where are u located? I can do it for you.

I'm sure everyone would be interested in seeing how you got that W3 to fit. Do you have pics?

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

That isn't right IMO. A quality wiring kit would be $50-$60 max. I got mine for $20. $100 "wiring" is crazy. Sounds to me like he screwed up and is just trying to cover himself. The hard parts to the installation are getting the panels off and the wiring. Once that's done, you take ten minutes to screw the sub into the enclosure, no way there's $100 worth of work going into that install. $100 for the amp install is high, but not too far out of whack. I know in my last 4runner I had a head unit, amp, and sub all installed for $60, total time of about an hour. This takes a little more time, but it's not that much. I'd say he most definitely charged you for the sub (they run about $100 retail) and is just covering it up with the other charges.

 

[thomaspuzio]

Yeah you're probably right on all fronts, however, I can see it going like this:

$100 for wiring =
1) the labor/parts for fixing my dimmer wire issue which was not connected originally and required some jerry-rigging to make work
2) the wiring kit parts for the amp/sub
3) the labor charge for putting in the wiring for the amp/sub.

I think i'm fine with that. The cost is probably on the high end, but I believe the guy will honor his work if something goes wrong.

The other $200 i do think is high. $100 to put in an amp seems up there. and originally I thought the final $100 was the cost of the sub.

My only saving grace is that I know they worked on the thing for 5 hours. They spent some time trying to get the W3 to fit and that didn't work out so they switched to the other sub.

Maybe I should have just stuck with good 'ole Best Buy

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

Once wiring is done, it takes all of two minutes to hook up an amp, possibly another five to adjust settings on it. Here's my interpretation of it:
$100 wiring-price of actual wiring kit
$100 amp-price of running wires and hooking up amp (labor)
$100 sub-price for running speaker wires and mounting sub in the box (labor)
One more thing, you were paying him for every minute he spent trying to get the w3 in there, then the time it took to put the CVR in there. Essentially you payed twice for the sub install, so on second thought that may not be quite as out of line as I had thought. Still high, but not as bad.

This was my first sub install, I had nothing at all to go on when I started. I had to figure everything out as I went. Even then, it only took me 5-6 hours (in the dark btw). I can't believe an experienced installer with proper info couldn't have it knocked out in 2-3 hours tops. If money's that good, I'm about to open up a install business cause he's making a killing!

 

[single-n-rigid]

I just read thru this thread and unless I missed it somewhere, how did you reduce the volume of the stock sub enclosure? JL Audio 8W1v2-4 calls for a sealed box volume of 0.375 cubic feet and the stock enclosure is 0.6 cubic feet.

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

You're right on the specs. Most subs with small mounting depth (small enough to fit in the stock enclosure) are designed for smaller boxes. I started to use some spray foam to take up some airspace, but I figured that by the time you take away the space the the sub takes up, the volume is pretty close. Answer is, I did nothing to account for that, just went with it under the assumption that I'd go back in IF I felt it needed it, but thus far I haven't.

 

[asnatlas]

My JL 8w3v3 just came in the mail a few days ago. I was gonna get the JL 250/1 amp but at 4ohms its only 175/1 I went with a 2channel and I will bridge it and get 200watts rms at 4ohms. I was hoping the amp would fit onto the box like the stock amp does, but I guess it wont. Ill get some pics up of mine as well

The jl w3 is a way better speaker. I'm not a audio installer but I figured out how to make it fit. Just took s little customization.

philromero215, You were able to get the 8w3v3 mounted in the factory box ? I would love to see pics. When the weather starts to warm up I will prob pick up the 8w3v3 and install it into my 04 4runner. Which amp did you use (model) and did you get it installed under your passenger seat without issues??

 

[CAFROG]

A w3 needs quite a bit of power to live up to the expectations (IMO 250 watts give or take). And the stock plastic box is on the small side but nothing horrible for a sealed enclosure.

A 8w1 4-ohm would work nicely, need less power, less mounting depth (3-13/16" from crutchfield) and cost less. Plus it is a better balance to stock powered mid-high speakers IMO. You could use a smaller amp and place it in the stock location. I like the inconspicuous look (if I had the stock sub lol)

 

[CAFROG]

0.65 ft^3 is not too much for the 8w1 either.

 

[asnatlas]

A w3 needs quite a bit of power to live up to the expectations (IMO 250 watts give or take). And the stock plastic box is on the small side but nothing horrible for a sealed enclosure.

A 8w1 4-ohm would work nicely, need less power, less mounting depth (3-13/16" from crutchfield) and cost less. Plus it is a better balance to stock powered mid-high speakers IMO. You could use a smaller amp and place it in the stock location. I like the inconspicuous look (if I had the stock sub lol)

I understand what you are saying. I am looking at upgrading the full system (all speakers) over a period of time. I was looking at getting the 500/1v2 to push the 8W3v3-4 but it might be a little too much power (4 ohms: 340 watts) ??

I was also thinking about getting a 10W3v3-4 but I don't think I would be able to fit it in a custom enclosure where the stock 8" factory enclosure is located.

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

Amp/sub power rating doesn't matter. You'll want to know the rating on the sub, and you can adjust the amps power accordingly. If you're not familiar with it, do a search for setting gain on the amp. I use a multimeter to dial it in. If my amp wasn't adjusted properly I could blow my 8w1v2 just with the 250 watt amp I have.

 

[CAFROG]

I understand what you are saying. I am looking at upgrading the full system (all speakers) over a period of time. I was looking at getting the 500/1v2 to push the 8W3v3-4 but it might be a little too much power (4 ohms: 340 watts) ??

I was also thinking about getting a 10W3v3-4 but I don't think I would be able to fit it in a custom enclosure where the stock 8" factory enclosure is located.

The 500/1v2....is that variable wattage output depending on ohm load? I know the higher end JL amp used to give the same power from 0.5-4ohm but I also know some give different power depending on the ohm load.

But if you do plan to do a big system...the W3 is a good choice

 

[single-n-rigid]

You're right on the specs. Most subs with small mounting depth (small enough to fit in the stock enclosure) are designed for smaller boxes. I started to use some spray foam to take up some airspace, but I figured that by the time you take away the space the the sub takes up, the volume is pretty close. Answer is, I did nothing to account for that, just went with it under the assumption that I'd go back in IF I felt it needed it, but thus far I haven't.

Thanks for the input! I'll give it a shot too and adjust if necessary.

Did you need a spacer ring for the 8W1v2-4 sub?

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

I needed no extra parts (i.e. adapter rings) that weren't listed in the original post.

 

[CAFROG]

Why spend money on a amp that you need to de-tune and tone down? Higher wattage cost more. Seems like spending dumb money unless you already have the amp. You SHOULD match the amp to the sub when buying both.

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

Why spend money on a amp that you need to de-tune and tone down? Higher wattage cost more. Seems like spending dumb money unless you already have the amp. You SHOULD match the amp to the sub when buying both.

Correct, I was thinking about the ability to upgrade later and not change amps. However, if it's only a mono amp, then it'd do nothing to the door speakers so it probably would be unnecessary.

 

[SolRayz]

Hey Ark...I'm really considering copying your setup. It seems to be a real cost effective way of improving the low end. Not too bass heavy and more balanced. I'm personally looking forward to tossing that crap jbl sub into my neighbors yard. :biggrin2:

I have a couple of questions.
What gauge power wire did you use for the jl amp?

Since I have no NAV ECU, I am thinking of placing the jl amp in its place. Do you think the jl amp will fit there and under the paneling for the ultimate stealth look? Maybe too much heat there?

And can you explain more precisely where you ran the power wire through the firewall and to the battery.

Are you still liking that setup?

Thanks for your help!

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

I can't remember what I ran, pretty sure it was 4 gauge wire. 8 gauge would be sufficient, but I went ahead and used bigger just in case I choose to upgrade to more power later, all the wiring would hold up. The amp I have will not fit in the spot that the nav goes into (I think, I've never looked at one without, just judging by the size I'd say it'd be too big). I can take pics of where I ran the wire through at, but that'll have to be done tomorrow sometime. You can look under the hood and on the passenger side you can see a large rubber grommet where other wires are going through at. I used this same spot, pretty easy to access from both sides. Here's a pic I had taken during the install, on the other side you just remove the small panel that would be near your right foot if you were sitting in the seat, once removed it's easy to see. I'll be glad to provide more info or a better pic if needed. I still love the setup, as you mentioned it's balanced. That's probably the best word for it. This won't reach down there and really hit the lows, but it's got enough juice (even with mine turned at about 75% power) to shake the whole rig and enough for you to feel. This will get as loud as a single 10 or 12 with the same power (IMO), main difference is that the bigger sub will hit the lows better.

 

[S p a r k y]

8 guage is all u will need for one amp running an 8. However if you do or think you may add more go ahead and run 4 guage. I ran mine through the driver side gromlet, either will work just fine. If you run where Ark did, just make sure the power wire it wire tied up so it doesn't get near motor. Also use wire loom like Ark did, looks better and protects.

i would suggest the amp not go where the Nav would be, that way you can adjust if needed or change fuse is needed. That way you wont have to remove the panel.

This is the PERFECT upgrade for the 4runner sound with the cheapest cost, I love mine. I also ran an extra speaker wire to the back incase I add another sub.

Thanks Ark

 

[asnatlas]

Would it be easy / do-able to remove the factory 8" enclosure and build a custom enclosure that would fit a 10w3 ??