Replaced rear hatch and now the locks don't work.

[Wraytex]

I've been going through a 2000 limited for several months. I wound up needing to replace the rear liftgate due to dents and rust. On the replacement liftgate I stripped all the components out and left the interior wiring in place but zip tied that out of the way while i had it at a body shop getting painted. Upon completing that I tried the rear electrical components and nothing worked. So I went to my original lift gate and pulled all wiring harnesses out and reinstalled. Well now everything seems to work but the locks. I used to be able to insert the key in the drivers door and when i turned it it would unlock all the doors, but now does nothing. Did i scramble a module or something? Also the locks won't work with the ignition off. I was going to ask lots of stuff earlier on but have always found what i was looking for using the search and I'll be embarrassed if this was already covered somewhere. Thanks, Tim

 

[phattyduck]

The remote antenna and computer is in the hatch. Make sure you are using your original one from your truck.

Next thing to check is the wiring section that goes between the hatch and the body - it can easily have broken wires that cause lots of trouble.

So the rear window, wiper, etc still work on the rear hatch? How about the hatch window with the key in the rear hatch key hole?

Have you checked all your fuses, just in case?

-Charlie

 

[Reinout]

[MENTION=221050]Wraytex[/MENTION] I know this isn't an answer for you but I was curious: What did it cost to get just the rear hatch painted (approx)?

My hatch is the only part of my 97 where the paint is having issues.

 

[Wraytex]

Charlie I pulled the plugs and ohmed two wires at a time using a jumper on the other end of the harness from the roof and have continuity, there are some cracks there however. My wiper does not work and I can't say the previous wiper did either. I have plugged the old one in unmounted so I'm sure its not getting voltage. I'll try the hatch key this evening and didn't even think about that feature. The window operates from the front controls fine. I also need to reprogram my FOB but was wanting all other issues squared up first. Thanks for the pointers.

REinout a local shop did a spray job for 300 out the door. This was matched to the color code and wasn't on the 4runner when it was painted, it looks ok. This is a hunting/farm rig that I'm trying to fix all that i can without the Wife getting too riled up over.

 

[phattyduck]

Also keep in mind that a number of features back there are interlocked - if the rear window is down (or the rear door ecu thinks it is), then the window wiper won't work. If the rear ECU thinks the window wiper isn't parked, it won't allow the window to work, etc.

Also, there is a confirmation switch in the door lock on the back door that will keep the wireless beeper from beeping if the lock doesn't get set. Lots of complications back there...

Check all the fuses!
Verify power locks operate the rear door locks
Check rear window with key
etc.

Report back as much detail as you can.

-Charlie

 

[Wraytex]

I checked at lunch and the window will not work with the key. I’ll check other power after work. Is there documentation on this? Thanks Charlie I appreciate the help.

 

[brillo_76]

Hmm. If you put everything that was in the original hatch in the new hatch with everything the same. Should work. Did you verify your wiring is good in the hatch boot as those wires in that boot can get us.

Major changes in wiring after 99 with like Charlie said the wireless system and the alarm system after 01.

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[Wraytex]

All fuses in the interior box check out as good. The only hot wire i can tell going to rear with key off is the blue wire on the smaller connector.

 

[phattyduck]

All fuses in the interior box check out as good. The only hot wire i can tell going to rear with key off is the blue wire on the smaller connector.

You should also have constant power on the blue-red wire, which comes from the MPX-B 15A fuse.

The Yellow wire will be power with ignition on (ECU-IG fuse, 10A).

-Charlie

 

[brillo_76]

Any progress on this?

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[Wraytex]

Looks like the responses from earlier were lost In the happening. I found that the rear hatch closed sensor does not work on the new hatch. My old one does but is very rusted. Will order a new one.

I was looking forward to the links Durk posted.

 

[brillo_76]

Looks like the responses from earlier were lost In the happening. I found that the rear hatch closed sensor does not work on the new hatch. My old one does but is very rusted. Will order a new one.

I was looking forward to the links Durk posted.

What was the year 2000 and remember which circuits.

The forum had to have crashed and they restored from backup with some data lost.. :-(

 

[TheDurk]

Looks like the responses from earlier were lost In the happening. I found that the rear hatch closed sensor does not work on the new hatch. My old one does but is very rusted. Will order a new one.

I was looking forward to the links Durk posted.

Which was what I suggested you check in my lost post. Here are the links....again.

 

[Wraytex]

Just to give closure, nothing was making sense and I had thought all the voltages checked out to the plug, so I started over and found that in fact the MPX-B fuse was blown. All is good now but my troubleshooting skills. Thanks for the help and schematics, I appreciate it.

 

[brillo_76]

Just to give closure, nothing was making sense and I had thought all the voltages checked out to the plug, so I started over and found that in fact the MPX-B fuse was blown. All is good now but my troubleshooting skills. Thanks for the help and schematics, I appreciate it.

Glad you found it. When the wire broke it may have shorted and blown the fuse.


The multiplex circuits can be complex and only in the 1999 through 2002 3rd gens.

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