Replaced Spark Plugs

[BTO]

Here's my thoughts:

Went with Rutheniums which I have in my car and liked them better than the Iridiums.

The old (original plugs) Denso Iridium Long Life plugs still look fantastic with 126,000 miles and almost 9 years on them. I checked the gaps and they are all spot on but slightly closed. They all measured exactly .040 inch. I gapped the new Rutheniums to .043. The Densos look they could have gone another 50k easy.

The job is a little tougher than most vehicles. Especially the driver side. Some things need to be removed and moved out of the way.

 

[1000MPH]

I feel for y’all if you’ve got the smog pumps. So did you use anti seize?

 

[osugsxr]

just did another oil change yesterday at 114k. Last 50 miles I ran seafoam through the engine. Engine seems to be tad quieter (maybe) , coming up on sparks plugs at 120k miles and not really looking forward to that but shouldnt be too bad.

 

[BTO]

I feel for y’all if you’ve got the smog pumps. So did you use anti seize?

I ended up NOT using anti-seize, even though I always used it on past vehicles. This time I decided to go a little different. I sprayed a minimal amount of PB Blaster onto each old spark plug (at the top of the threads) and let it soak while I removed the EGR valve from the driver side. Then sprayed the driver side while I replaced the plugs in the passenger side. This allowed the new plugs to more easily thread in because of the small amount of PB Blaster that leaked down into the threads.

I was a bit concerned about the recommended 13 ft/lbs torque because NGK was recommending 18 ft/lbs on their website. 13 seemed a little weak to me. I remember the 3rd gen 4Runners with the 3.4L 5VZ-FE V6 engine blowing spark plugs out their holes. I decided to split the difference went with 15 ft/lbs. No issues.

The wife states the 4Runner is running well. I haven't driven it yet.

 

[BTO]

just did another oil change yesterday at 114k. Last 50 miles I ran seafoam through the engine. Engine seems to be tad quieter (maybe) , coming up on sparks plugs at 120k miles and not really looking forward to that but shouldnt be too bad.

Had I known what I know now, I would have waited till at least 150K before replacing them.

 

[1000MPH]

I felt the same about the torque, especially when I found one plug, not exactly loose, but a little too easy to remove. My plugs had what I want to call dendrites, forming on the electrodes so I ended up replacing early.

I ended up NOT using anti-seize, even though I always used it on past vehicles. This time I decided to go a little different. I sprayed a minimal amount of PB Blaster onto each old spark plug (at the top of the threads) and let it soak while I removed the EGR valve from the driver side. Then sprayed the driver side while I replaced the plugs in the passenger side. This allowed the new plugs to more easily thread in because of the small amount of PB Blaster that leaked down into the threads.

I was a bit concerned about the recommended 13 ft/lbs torque because NGK was recommending 18 ft/lbs on their website. 13 seemed a little weak to me. I remember the 3rd gen 4Runners with the 3.4L 5VZ-FE V6 engine blowing spark plugs out their holes. I decided to split the difference went with 15 ft/lbs. No issues.

The wife states the 4Runner is running well. I haven't driven it yet.

.

 

[AuSeeker]

I felt the same about the torque, especially when I found one plug, not exactly loose, but a little too easy to remove. My plugs had what I want to call dendrites, forming on the electrodes so I ended up replacing early.

.

When you say "dendrites forming on the electrodes" did you mean the ceramic insulator, or the metal electrode itself?

 

[1000MPH]

What looked like metallic buildup on the electrodes.

 

[<<<<]

If using anti-seize or any lubricant (OP mentioned PB Blaster) remember to back off torque since 13 ft/lb is dry spec and will be over torqued with those products applied.

 

[Teocalli]

Mine have 180,000 and still running great. I need to get around to replacing but if it ain't broke ???

 

[henley]

Thanks for sharing this- I was wondering about future spark plug replacement for my 2018-

 

[gordonp]

If using anti-seize or any lubricant (OP mentioned PB Blaster) remember to back off torque since 13 ft/lb is dry spec and will be over torqued with those products applied.

Here's a counter-thought:

Sure, when lubricating bolt-threads, I'd do exactly as you suggest, and adjust the torque for the lower friction. Friction of the threads.

But, IMHO, that's not quite how our spark plugs work. Rather, they have the crush/lock washer, and IMHO this alone is where the 15ft-lbs of torque / resistance comes from. The threads are smoothly pulling, and also we don't dare "tighten until stretched" on the threads, like you might with head-bolts.

Summary: don't get anything (lube, anti-seize, etc) on the plug washer. And no matter what you do with the threads, maintain the specified torque.

You may have different ideas on this, but this is how I see things. And it's worked fine.