Spark Plug Options - DENSO Regular or Iridium, anti-seize

Bumbo

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V6 (1GR-FE)

Per the service manual...
NGK - LFR6C-11
DENSO - K20HR-U11

I see many options on RockAuto... but I ordered the following from Amazon:

Denso (3421) SK20HR11 Iridium Long Life Spark Plug, Single Plug Gap 0.044
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002FOO884/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Other options available....
DENSO 4704 Iridium TT - Gap 0.040
DENSO 5344 {#IKH20} Iridium Power Gap 0.044;
+ the NGK stuff...

Not until after I ordered I noticed... service manual states gap being (0.039 - 0.043) why is everything saying 0.044 except for 1 option?

What plugs do you guys use? I dont know why I went with the more expensive Iridum plugs other than why not... does it even make a difference?

Or should I have just saved the money and stuck with DENSO 3381 {#K20HRU11} Copper as per the manual and just change them more often?

Also, Yes or No to anti-seize during installation? How much do I apply, what should it look like? Small dab and smear with finger? Light coating, cover all threads?
 
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I got the denso iridium powers.. they were in stock and on sale..

smallest center electrode I've ever seen.. looks like a fine pen tip.. I have nothing to compare them to though.. changed the old ones as soon as I got the vehicle..

the claim is the electrode is so small it has a more efficient spark, yada yada yada..
 
I used milk of magnesia for my anti-seize. I will let you know how that worked in about 6 years.

DENSO Iridium
 
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I believe it gives you incorrect torque values.

now this is the first instance i've seen of a potential real reason not to use it. :thanks: added it in a search and found a writeup i hadn't seen before:

link

while its just a writeup with a lot of 'we were told', i may actually reconsider my use of the stuff AND actually torquing down the plugs correctly. never done that, always just tightened to that right feel just after the crush washer goes.

just changed the plugs a year ago too, damn.
 
now this is the first instance i've seen of a potential real reason not to use it. :thanks: added it in a search and found a writeup i hadn't seen before:

link

while its just a writeup with a lot of 'we were told', i may actually reconsider my use of the stuff AND actually torquing down the plugs correctly. never done that, always just tightened to that right feel just after the crush washer goes.

just changed the plugs a year ago too, damn.

Good article, i also do not torque the plugs.
 
Regarding the question of anti-sieze. It probably depends on the plug manufacturer. I don't know about Denso, but NGK already coats their threads with something so that anti-sieze isn't required and says so in their instructions . And it is about proper torque. To help matters, NGK (probaby others) includes angular torque specifications to use once the plug makes contact so you don't have to worry about any sort of lubricant interfering with a torque wrench reading.

FWIW, my OEM plugs came out at 80K with no issues. One would assume Toyota followed NGK/Denso no anti-sieze instructions at the factory.
 
Interesting. What is the recommended torque? I might break out the torque wrench and make sure since I just changed them.
 
V6 (1GR-FE)

Per the service manual...
NGK - LFR6C-11
DENSO - K20HR-U11

I see many options on RockAuto... but I ordered the following from Amazon:

Denso (3421) SK20HR11 Iridium Long Life Spark Plug, Single Plug Gap 0.044
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002FOO884/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Other options available....
DENSO 4704 Iridium TT - Gap 0.040
DENSO 5344 {#IKH20} Iridium Power Gap 0.044;
+ the NGK stuff...

Not until after I ordered I noticed... service manual states gap being (0.039 - 0.043) why is everything saying 0.044 except for 1 option?

What plugs do you guys use? I dont know why I went with the more expensive Iridum plugs other than why not... does it even make a difference?

Or should I have just saved the money and stuck with DENSO 3381 {#K20HRU11} Copper as per the manual and just change them more often?

Also, Yes or No to anti-seize during installation? How much do I apply, what should it look like? Small dab and smear with finger? Light coating, cover all threads?

I followed your Amazon link and Amazon told me the plug does not fit my 2006 4Runner???
 
Interesting. What is the recommended torque? I might break out the torque wrench and make sure since I just changed them.

You don't really have to torque them with a torque wrench but sometimes I'll do the tapered seat design. I spin by hand until the spark plus seats against the head and do 3/4 turns. Because you've already installed yours if you take them out you'd want to turn them less because the washer is already crush. The link below says 1/16 of a turn. I normally just seat them again and then give them one last little tweak. If you aren't use to what different levels of torque feel like whip out a torque wrench and do a few of them. You'll get use to what they should "feel" like.

Found this for reference. PLUG STUDIO / NGK
 
Any suggestions where to buy spark plugs online? The dealer wants $10 each.

I have the V8 2UZ-FE
Part# 90080-91180
 
Any suggestions where to buy spark plugs online? The dealer wants $10 each.

I have the V8 2UZ-FE
Part# 90080-91180

Rock Auto, Amazon, Ebay.

But do check your local auto parts. Most have coupons or codes for ordering online/pick up in store. I get lucky with Napa and Advance Auto here and there. $10-$25 off.
 

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