Replacement power steering rack bushings

infamousRNR said:
Does anyone know of any good write ups for this job?...

I went to the ih8mud forum but all his picture links are broken...


. . . .
Click to expand...

I dont remember seeing one but use Brian_SD's search method & I'm sure you'll find something on here. I bet there's a Youtube video too. It's a pain the ass but well worth it & the parts are only what? $22?

Buy them from Wheelers OffRoad (ES) or OEM. Forget Moog or any other aftermarket BS.
 
If you plan on doing the LCA/UCA bushings, do the steering rack bushings at the same time, as the rack has to be undone to get the driver's side LCA bolt out. Wish I would have just done that. While doing my LCA bushings, my rack had no support bolts in it.
 
my steering rack bushings are toast!!!

how can you determine if its the rack itself or just the bushings?...

i looked underneath while someone turned the wheel and there is a ton of play, so definitely need new bushings...

but how to test the rack itself?
 
And bushings are cheap. I haven't read of too many actual steering racks biting the dust. And if the rack is actually shifting that is definitely a bushing issue. You MAY have a rack issue, but for sure a bushing issue.
 
infamousRNR said:
please come back to this thread and share any "learns" from this job, tips & tricks sort of thing.

thanks for the response
Click to expand...

Here's what I learned:
1. Use some Windex to remove bushings and when installing new bushings. It's a PITA if you don't.
2. Install bushings first. After both are in place, use channel lock pliers to push the grommet into place. Again, use Windex and it is a super easy install.
3. If your under carriage is dirty, take it to a DIY carwash and pressure wash it first.
4. I was afraid the steering rack would be under some kind of pressure and pop out of place after removing all four fasteners... It was not. Don't be afraid to man handle it to move it to where it is easy to work.
5. For drivers side bushing removal give yourself some good clearance by moving the rack in order to get a good handle on it.
6. Other than that the previous walk through really hits the nail on the head.
7. Be sure to remember the orientation of the U shaped ring on the passenger side. It is not symmetrical and must be installed the same way it came out.
 
fblainen11 said:
Here's what I learned:
1. Use some Windex to remove bushings and when installing new bushings. It's a PITA if you don't.
2. Install bushings first. After both are in place, use channel lock pliers to push the grommet into place. Again, use Windex and it is a super easy install.
3. If your under carriage is dirty, take it to a DIY carwash and pressure wash it first.
4. I was afraid the steering rack would be under some kind of pressure and pop out of place after removing all four fasteners... It was not. Don't be afraid to man handle it to move it to where it is easy to work.
5. For drivers side bushing removal give yourself some good clearance by moving the rack in order to get a good handle on it.
6. Other than that the previous walk through really hits the nail on the head.
7. Be sure to remember the orientation of the U shaped ring on the passenger side. It is not symmetrical and must be installed the same way it came out.
Click to expand...





did you use poly bushings from energy suspension?
 
re-visiting this thread with the video [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] and I made to showcase how to complete this repair....

. . . .

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/YywcR0E9bM4" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
Urethane squeaks?

My 3rd gen does a bit of 'wandering' down the road. It takes an effort to keep it in its lane at highway speeds and going over uneven surfaces at lower speeds. I have to correct the steering quite a bit.

Thanks to the members of this forum, I figured out how to isolate where the issue was (tie rods and ball joints are solid). Starting the engine with the truck on the ground, the steering rack moves quite a bit when turning the steering wheel. I was amazed by how much the damn thing moves.

I'm wondering if anyone who has installed the urethane steering rack bushings has had any issues with the bushings squeaking?

I'll probably replace front and rear sway bar bushings while under the truck.

Thanks to everyone who has donated to this thread for their experience and tips in advance of replacing my bushings. :dancin:
 
ATX4Yota said:
My 3rd gen does a bit of 'wandering' down the road. It takes an effort to keep it in its lane at highway speeds and going over uneven surfaces at lower speeds. I have to correct the steering quite a bit.

Thanks to the members of this forum, I figured out how to isolate where the issue was (tie rods and ball joints are solid). Starting the engine with the truck on the ground, the steering rack moves quite a bit when turning the steering wheel. I was amazed by how much the damn thing moves.

I'm wondering if anyone who has installed the urethane steering rack bushings has had any issues with the bushings squeaking?

I'll probably replace front and rear sway bar bushings while under the truck.

Thanks to everyone who has donated to this thread for their experience and tips in advance of replacing my bushings. :dancin:
Click to expand...

I've replaced my steering rack and sway bar bushings with polyurethane and no squeaks. You do need to lubricate them though. I bought a container of silicone paste made by Mission Automotive and lubricated every surface that comes in contact with metal.

Use the video [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] posted on this thread. It's the video we made together doing the bushings on my rig.

Here's a link to the Mission Automotive product on Amazon:http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0..._m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=058H365PHXF5268WHH4E
 
mtbtim said:
I've replaced my steering rack and sway bar bushings with polyurethane and no squeaks. You do need to lubricate them though. I bought a container of silicone paste made by Mission Automotive and lubricated every surface that comes in contact with metal.

Use the video [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] posted on this thread. It's the video we made together doing the bushings on my rig.

Here's a link to the Mission Automotive product on Amazon:http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0..._m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=058H365PHXF5268WHH4E
Click to expand...

How long have you had the urethane bushings installed? And thanks to you and Sean for making the DIY video. I'll have my laptop next to my truck watching the video during the install.
 
ATX4Yota said:
How long have you had the urethane bushings installed? And thanks to you and Sean for making the DIY video. I'll have my laptop next to my truck watching the video during the install.
Click to expand...

I've had them installed for around 2 months now. And, it's our pleasure to give back to the DIY Mechanic Community.
 
mtbtim said:
I've had them installed for around 2 months now. And, it's our pleasure to give back to the DIY Mechanic Community.
Click to expand...

Thanks Tim. Got my urethane replacements from Wheeler's today and replaced bushings in the rack and front sway bar. Only driven it a few miles since but notice a huge improvement in the steering. Will tackle the rear sway bar bushings in the morning and start troubleshooting the dreaded P0446 code.
 
Well I bought a steering rack bush kit over here, and the metal tube running through the larger of the two-part bushes is incorrect.

The bolt which goes through the chassis member, pointing towards the back of the vehicle is Toyota part number 90150-16048 which is to say that it is a 16mm bolt, yet the tube in the kit I purchased has an internal diameter of 15mm.

Does anyone know if different model years had different sized rack bolts, or if this is just a mistake from whoever put the kit together?

Thanks!
 
eurasiaoverland said:
Well I bought a steering rack bush kit over here, and the metal tube running through the larger of the two-part bushes is incorrect.

The bolt which goes through the chassis member, pointing towards the back of the vehicle is Toyota part number 90150-16048 which is to say that it is a 16mm bolt, yet the tube in the kit I purchased has an internal diameter of 15mm.

Does anyone know if different model years had different sized rack bolts, or if this is just a mistake from whoever put the kit together?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

What bushing kit did you buy? Many of us are finding out the hard way there's lots of mistakes from the companies selling aftermarket bushing kits.
 
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