Replacement Stereo - Suggestions?

Good Day All!

I'm considering replacing the stock stereo (deck) in my 2000 T4R as the existing one is showing signs of age, skipping cd-play, intermittent backlit-LCD problems. As decks are 'reasonably' priced now I'd wanted to see what others; suggestions were for replacement. Not looking to do anything more than normal-usage as far as features go, one plus would be an aux-in jack for iPod / iPhone to play MP3's

Thanks!
 
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you cant go wrong with the JVC KW-R500. bout 150 at best buy, maybe cheaper online. All the features you would ever need, usb, ipod, cd, am, fm, CUSTOM COLOR SELECTION (i am a stickler about light color matching...) a remote, 2 amp outputs, fits like a glove-very easy install. much more power than the stock head unit (dont need factory amp). im loving it.
IMAG0008-2.jpg~original
 
You can get bluetooth w/ mic and ipod functionality for under $250 these days, I wouldn't even consider an aftermarket deck without bluetooth for handsfree calls at this point.
 
I'm also in the market for a new stereo, Ive been eyeballing the touch screens but is it true that a new deck will increase your music quality?
 
For around $200 bucks, you can get one that will sound better and look better and has aux jack and usb ipod control. I bought a Kenwood model and it is similar in style and look to the JVC. The colors are adjustable to match your interior and it not only allows you to play your ipod/iphone through it, it will control it as well through the HU. I bought mine from Crutchfield because they include a vehicle specific wiring harness, instructions and free tech support. All I had to do was plug the harness in and splice matching colored wires between the harness and the unit.
 
I too have the

JVC KW-R500. Sounds good, sub & amp outs, you can have the HU control the ipod/iphone or you can do so externally.

So far my 80g classic has froze twice and the functional control of the random/repeat feature has failed. This could be a result of incompatible ipod software or the HU software, i dont know.

So in order to bring it back to default settings and start over i have clear everything including my radio presets, EQ and playback settings. I can update my ipod and iphone with firm ware updates and it sure would be cool if i could do that with the JVC HU. Otherwise the the JVC or ipod/iphone software will just continue to fail.

Bottom line, for the money so far, it works and sounds good with my cheapo speaker set up.
 

Same one my wife and I would have bought yesterday to put in her Forester but it was out of stock. Mine however is a single din Alpine which is iPod only. Sucks since now I have an Android phone but I just keep my lil 16G shuffle hooked up. Easy access for the gym. Great unit with tons of tuning options but if you're really looking for good sound quality you HAVE to go through an amplifier. I stuck with an Alpine 4x90w RMS amp but the speakers are JBL. I blew the Alpine Type-R's in a few weeks. So two old Sony 12's and 2 JBL 6.5" hooked to amps and you don't want to turn it up all the way! As clear as can be through all freq's, not competition grade, but I don't need to bleed from the ears either.

If you have an iPhone or iPod, almost everything out there now has compatibility and integrated control. All depends on your preferences.

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I am pretty happy with my classic premium Alpine.

You can get one, even now for $100 used deck + $100 for new faceplate.

:fishing:


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Pictures update
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Here is my new (used) Alpine 9835 MP3/CD Head Unit. I cannot stress enough how much of a difference the 4V pre-out, 109db signal to noise ratio and the TILT feature make this thing awesome. Bought on ebay for $109 + $99 for a new faceplate.

Alpine 9835 Features (2004)
1) Tilting faceplate (big deal on 4Runner, means no glare)
2) 4V Pre-outs (to my two amps)
3) Nice big clear buttons
4) Almost a 100 professional audio features, thats why they were $500-$600 back in day
5) 109db Signal to Noise ratio ~ translation: amazing audio quality :)
6) 3.5mm direct-wire audio input
7) Plays mp3 playlists from CDRs (yes they still exist)
8) Factory pre-set 6 band EQ
9) Alpine V-Drive 27W RMSx4
10) 512 Color Display


******** No Tilt ********




******** With Tilt ********


:bat:
 
I am also debating a stereo upgrade, depending on the $$$. I would like a head unit that fills the space of the factory stereo...and I think one of this size will be the newer ones with the touch screen, etc. Any more recommendations for this??
 
I am also debating a stereo upgrade, depending on the $$$. I would like a head unit that fills the space of the factory stereo...and I think one of this size will be the newer ones with the touch screen, etc. Any more recommendations for this??



The downsides of a full-DIN LCD (or other) is that it will have a lot of glare.

That is one of the reasons why I went with the tilting 1/2 sized stereo.

Also if you want a full sized stereo you will need to pay a lot more for quality.

$350 gets you a top of the line brand new Alpine or Kenwood Excelon 1/2-din stereo with built in HD-radio and other top features.

That same $350 will get you a decent Pioneer or JVC full sized LCD but the quality in parts & audio is just not comparable.


You could do what I did and for $220 have a "like" brand new 1/2-din Alpine with 27W RMS V-Drive, 4V pre-outs *x6), MP3-CD & iPod playback, tilt and a S/N ratio of 109 db.

The only catch is that it will be an older stereo (2004 was last year with tilt) and you will risk it breaking. To me this was a small risk because Alpine will fully repair, re-certify and 90 day warranty any stereo for flat fee of $105.

I bought the deck used with a crappy faceplate for ~$105 and a totally new faceplate for ~$110. In all I had both in my possession for just around $225.

In my opinion this is a better setup than most of what you can find at best buy these days. Stereo quality has just gone way downhill, at least in terms of touch, look and feel.

More in my post above.


:fishing:
 
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He did a couple extra steps. I'm pretty sure most harnesses come with a 12v switch so you don't have to wire the radio directly to the battery. And you shouldn't have to remove the shift knobs either. Once you get the trim off, its generally plug and play.
 

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