Replacing '92 Throttle Cable

[willet43]

I have 227k on my '92, and the throttle cable is terrible sticky. Have to press real hard to get gas. I picked up a used cable and am looking to install it soon. I have never done this before and it is not in the manuals, so I'm just going to take a crack at it. Doesn't look too hard, but before I get into it, any tricks I should know about? Should I even attempt to lubricate this used cable? Thanks.

Bart
Bristow, Va.

 

[regularguy412]

I just re-lubed my 92's cable yesterday. I have to do it about every 5-6 months. It works great after that. I have some SPL100 spray lube that I like to use. Got it with some Prolong oil additive. The spray lube is both a penetrant and a lubricant. If you dont have somethingg like that, I would prolly use straight silicone spray lube and stay away from WD-40. It would work OK, but don't think it lasts too long under the high heat conditions. WD-40 is also a solvent and tends to evaporate more quickly.

First I take the cable out of the clip on top of the manifold and loosen the lock nut that holds the end of the cable so it slips out toward the top. Then, I just turn the bellcrank by hand and allow slack on the cable. The cable is terminated with a barrel plug on the end. While holding the bellcrank in the open throttle position, pull the cable slack thru and let the barrel plug rotate inside its place in the bellcrank. There's a little slot on the bell crank for the cable to slide out thru when enough slack reaches it. Whent the barrel plug pops out toward you, that end of the cable is free.

I just put the pipette end of the SPL100 lube down into the end of the cable housing and give it a good squirt. I let the housing rest in a vertical position to allow for the lube to make its way down inside.

You just reverse the procedure to reinstall the cable.

I haven't taken the pedal end of the cable off. So can't help ya much there. The hardest part of the whole process is holding the bell crank under spring tension with one hand and trying to get the cable slack thru to the front side where the barrel plug is , so it can slip out.

If you lube it well, you may not have to replace the entire cable / housing.

Hope this helps

Mike in AR

 

[willet43]

Thanks -- sounds like advice. I'll try and lube my current cable before installing the other. It certainly would be less of a hassle. The rubber plug at the pedal end disintegrated a while ago, and as you can only get another by purchasing a new cable, I'll have to see if can rig something.

Bart

I just re-lubed my 92's cable yesterday. I have to do it about every 5-6 months. It works great after that. I have some SPL100 spray lube that I like to use. Got it with some Prolong oil additive. The spray lube is both a penetrant and a lubricant. If you dont have somethingg like that, I would prolly use straight silicone spray lube and stay away from WD-40. It would work OK, but don't think it lasts too long under the high heat conditions. WD-40 is also a solvent and tends to evaporate more quickly.

First I take the cable out of the clip on top of the manifold and loosen the lock nut that holds the end of the cable so it slips out toward the top. Then, I just turn the bellcrank by hand and allow slack on the cable. The cable is terminated with a barrel plug on the end. While holding the bellcrank in the open throttle position, pull the cable slack thru and let the barrel plug rotate inside its place in the bellcrank. There's a little slot on the bell crank for the cable to slide out thru when enough slack reaches it. Whent the barrel plug pops out toward you, that end of the cable is free.

I just put the pipette end of the SPL100 lube down into the end of the cable housing and give it a good squirt. I let the housing rest in a vertical position to allow for the lube to make its way down inside.

You just reverse the procedure to reinstall the cable.

I haven't taken the pedal end of the cable off. So can't help ya much there. The hardest part of the whole process is holding the bell crank under spring tension with one hand and trying to get the cable slack thru to the front side where the barrel plug is , so it can slip out.

If you lube it well, you may not have to replace the entire cable / housing.

Hope this helps

Mike in AR