replacing 98 vacuum ADD with 01-02 electric ADD actuator.

J

JustinJones

New member
I'm currently waiting on a new front diff with Harrpo elocker from eascoast gear supply. While I have it all out I think it might be a good time to switch in the electric ADD actuator found in the 01-02 4runners instead of the vacuum operated one from earlier models. I'd like to manually operate this with a switch to engage or disengage sperate of the operation of the j-shifter. I dont mind not having dash indicators. I'm looking for a wiring diagram specific to the ADD. has anyone made this switch? what am I missing?

Thanks
Justin
 
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JustinJones said:
I'm currently waiting on a new front diff with Harrpo elocker from eascoast gear supply. While I have it all out I think it might be a good time to switch in the electric ADD actuator found in the 01-02 4runners instead of the vacuum operated one from earlier models. I'd like to manually operate this with a switch to engage or disengage sperate of the operation of the j-shifter. I dont mind not having dash indicators. I'm looking for a wiring diagram specific to the ADD. has anyone made this switch? what am I missing?

Thanks
Justin
Click to expand...
It would be a lot easier to control the vacuum actuator and components associated with that.

The electric actuator is controlled with the 4wd computer and isn’t a simple on/off control. The electric actuator tells the 4wd computer when it’s reached the correct location then the 4wd computer stops the actuator.
 
It should be fairly simple. You just need a momentary switch that can also reverse polarity. Rig up a relay to cut the power once the limit switch is closed. I can see it working with a little bit of time I invested in a wiring schematic.
 
Just interrupt the trigger wire to your current ADD relay. One SPDT switch is all that is needed... Not sure what it gains you though?

-Charlie
 
EDIT: I see that OP is not keeping the j-shifter, making my comment off-topic. Best of luck [MENTION=694539]JustinJones[/MENTION]

phattyduck said:
Just interrupt the trigger wire to your current ADD relay. One SPDT switch is all that is needed... Not sure what it gains you though?

-Charlie
Click to expand...


Would this give you 2LO ?
J-Shifter in 4LO, but no power to the ADD?

Could be nice for extra engine braking while descending (or lower ATF temps while ascending) very steep but higher-traction surfaces.
 
Last edited:
cl4Rk said:
EDIT: I see that OP is not keeping the j-shifter, making my comment off-topic. Best of luck [MENTION=694539]JustinJones[/MENTION]




Would this give you 2LO ?
J-Shifter in 4LO, but no power to the ADD?

Could be nice for extra engine braking while descending (or lower ATF temps while ascending) very steep but higher-traction surfaces.
Click to expand...
It would give you 2LO and also another option for 2HI if you would rather leave the transfer case in 4HI for whatever reason.
 
cl4Rk said:
Would this give you 2LO ?
J-Shifter in 4LO, but no power to the ADD?

Could be nice for extra engine braking while descending (or lower ATF temps while ascending) very steep but higher-traction surfaces.
Click to expand...
Yes, I had forgotten about that. I had 2LO for a while until I wired up my 4WD swap... :biggrin1:

-Charlie
 
The reason for this is two fold. Vacuum operated stuff seems more problematic in my experience and I hate diagnosing vacuum issues. It's so much easier to test things with a multimeter to track down issues. The guys at Toyota must have decided this too because they went to electric ADD actuator in the 01-02.
Second I want 2Lo range for backing my trailer up my steep driveway. I don't want to slip the clutch, or go too fast, so I usually use 4Lo but I hate the binding especially with the extra weight of the trailer. If I could flip a switch and have 2Lo it would be perfect.

Justin
 
You could install a two pole relay on the control wires going to the vacuum actuators to force the ADD to stay disconnected.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
JustinJones said:
The reason for this is two fold. Vacuum operated stuff seems more problematic in my experience and I hate diagnosing vacuum issues. It's so much easier to test things with a multimeter to track down issues.
Click to expand...
It still works after 24 years... doesn't sound very problematic to me?

A single SPST switch will get you 2LO with your current setup.

-Charlie
 
I like the ADD on vacuum vs electric system. That said I’m sure it has something to do with heated Chevy 4x4 switches and water crossings back in the early 90’s……lol. Those damn things…… every time they hit water they cooled and disengaged…..

Unlocked 2lo would be nice in that when needed. I really liked 2 low on my old power stroke fro reversing with a heavy trailer. I’m just not sure how often I’d need it on the runner though.

When I’m out wheeling I can’t say I ever really feel bind off-road, even on slick rock. Or at least to the point I feel like it’s a problem. On trucks towing heavy trailers/rv’s it’s nice while backing up if you have a manual. But that’s it for me at least. Even on boat ramps you want it in actual 4x4. Boat ramps are the great equalizer. It puts on display for all to see who sucks at life….lol….
 
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