Replacing A/C Magnetic Clutch?
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sleepydad
Senior Member
I did it, it's not hard but man is it a pain the neck getting into that spot. it's also kind of a pain getting the new one shimmed correctly.
your best route is to remove the airbox, that way you can take the compressor off the engine and mess with it by bringing it up into that space where the airbox was. the best best would be to take it and have the system captured so you could just replace the compressor as a whole.
the clutch on the compressor I did only lasted another year or so on that truck so... I ended up doing the entire system and in the long run I wish I had just done the entire system and not messed with the clutch.
I guess it depends on how much $ you want to throw @ it. after I did the entire system and having super fresh cold again... I will go that route again. it only takes a couple of hours once you have all the parts to do the entire thing.
This is useful info. Yeah it like a pain to change. Didn`t know there were shims,
Is there info on the shims and how to use the correct number of shims? I suppose you would have to use shims if you were replacing the compressor too.
I guess I want to try clutch only. Wonder what the best brand clutch is? I am sure there is cheap crap. I want to avoid cheap crap.
Is there info on the shims and how to use the correct number of shims? I suppose you would have to use shims if you were replacing the compressor too.
I guess I want to try clutch only. Wonder what the best brand clutch is? I am sure there is cheap crap. I want to avoid cheap crap.
LittleCaesar
New member
Having replaced clutches on other compressors, but not on this one, my rule of thumb is to replace the whole compressor as a unit if it is fifteen years or older. My best story is for a friend whose we replaced because it seized due to driving through salt water for years on his Nissan. It lasted a month, maybe two, until the bearing seized and caused lots more trouble for him.
Don’t know the exact numbers for the spacing but I have used anywhere from .015mm to .045mm spacing depending on the application. Make sure to have feeler gauges. If the clutch won’t spin, add more shims until there is light to no drag.
Removing the compressor makes the job 10x easier.
But [MENTION=168172]sleepydad[/MENTION] offers sagacious advice, follow it.
Don’t know the exact numbers for the spacing but I have used anywhere from .015mm to .045mm spacing depending on the application. Make sure to have feeler gauges. If the clutch won’t spin, add more shims until there is light to no drag.
Removing the compressor makes the job 10x easier.
But [MENTION=168172]sleepydad[/MENTION] offers sagacious advice, follow it.
LittleCaesar
New member
Denso 471164 should work just fine. I have used the NAPA equivalent on two Tacoma’s with the 5vz with no problems to report of in three plus years....
sleepydad
Senior Member
471-1164 $220.11 Denso 8831035720 Auto Air Conditioner - Car AC Compressor Replacement
this is a 97 sr4 4wd auto ( you can add your own vin to make sure )
Electrical | 4RUNNER VZN185L-GKPGKA RZN18#,VZN18# | JT3HN86ROVO128999 | Toyota | Genuine Parts Catalogs | PartSouq Auto Parts Around the World
if your going to do it and open the system make sure you do a 8847134010
RECEIVER & DRYER ASSY, COOLER
if possible?
1. get your system reclaimed
2. replace your compressor + reciever & dryer + orings
3. add some oil and pull a vac on it to make sure you did a good job.
4. have it re-charged by the people who reclaimed it
This thread has I think all the info you need
DIY Complete AC Replacement on 2000 T4R Limited
cheers
diverscale
Member
I replaced the clutch on mine, for the year after the compressor itself failed.
These denso compressor probably are engineered to have a clutch life similar to the compressor life.
Anyway, if you feel lucky. I did it from below, it was not that hard, just have to get the right tools and extensions. Keep track of the washers ' positions
These denso compressor probably are engineered to have a clutch life similar to the compressor life.
Anyway, if you feel lucky. I did it from below, it was not that hard, just have to get the right tools and extensions. Keep track of the washers ' positions
Took car to mechanic today. He said a/c clutches rarely go bad.
I had cut the belt off to the a/c compressor a while back to stop the loud noize from the engine.
When mechanic looked at car, he stuck his hand on a/c pully and said it had a bad bearing. Since there was no belt, it seems he was able to check this by noting he could move the pully up and down a little bit.
He bid the job at $1,500.00 to change the compressor and associated components so compressor warranty would be valid. He offered a 1 year warranty on parts and labor.
He did not bid on changing the pully bearing only, and I did not ask him for a bid on that.
At this point, I wouldn't mind rolling the dice on a new pully bearing. Anybody know the procedure for changing this?
I had cut the belt off to the a/c compressor a while back to stop the loud noize from the engine.
When mechanic looked at car, he stuck his hand on a/c pully and said it had a bad bearing. Since there was no belt, it seems he was able to check this by noting he could move the pully up and down a little bit.
He bid the job at $1,500.00 to change the compressor and associated components so compressor warranty would be valid. He offered a 1 year warranty on parts and labor.
He did not bid on changing the pully bearing only, and I did not ask him for a bid on that.
At this point, I wouldn't mind rolling the dice on a new pully bearing. Anybody know the procedure for changing this?
It's not that hard of a job. Remove the bolt holding the front hub on (a 1/4" impact works well) and remove the hub. There's a large snap ring holding the pulley on, so remove it (a large angled snap-ring pliers work well here) and remove the pulley. The bearing is usually held in with some stake marks that you'll need to grind off and then press out the bearing, you'll probably need a hydraulic press to remove it and then press in the new bearing. Then just reassemble. Something to watch out for, sometimes when the bearing goes bad, it damages the snout of the compressor and a new bearing won't fix that, it's time for a new compressor. Part number for the bearing is Santech MT2027.
I made this video many years ago but it might be helpful.Denso 10PA clutch bearing replacement - YouTube
Checked the car today. Was able to rotate the pully with my hand. Pully bearing is obvously bad.
Looks like once the radiator is removed, access to the hub and bearing might be good without unmounting the compressor.
From the video, I can see that I need to pay special attention to the spacers when removing the hub.
Looks like once the radiator is removed, access to the hub and bearing might be good without unmounting the compressor.
From the video, I can see that I need to pay special attention to the spacers when removing the hub.
I have a 2001 Toyota Tacoma (3.4L V6 4x4), and I’m having trouble with the AC. I am asking here as Closest 4Runner match: 3rd Gen (1996–2002)
Same N-platform and 3.4L V6 (5VZ-FE) as my older Tacoma. :target:
It started with a weird rubbing or whining sound coming from under the hood. The strange part is that the noise would stop when I turned off the AC switch inside the truck. The AC still blew cold, so I only used it when I really needed to.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wNlZu0c5rS0
Today was the first hot day here and I had the AC running more than usual. That’s when the AC light on the dash stopped working. I checked and saw the 10A AC fuse had blown. I replaced it, but it blew again right away. Now the AC light won’t turn on at all, and the noise under the hood keeps going—even with the AC switch off.
Someone suggested I just need to replace the magnetic clutch assembly. That sounds like it might fix the problem, but I want to be sure I’m not missing anything. I also don’t want to pay for more repairs than I actually need.
Any help or advice would be really appreciated!
-yzrmzi
