Replacing cam seals...

ShooterMcGavin

ShooterMcGavin

New member
I haven't read about guys replacing the cam seals when doing the timing belt change, but I plan to do them. I rented the cam holder tool from O'Reilly's but it is not working. The bolt is on there so tight that the cam holder tool slips off the teeth. How have you guys held the cam in place to replace those seals?


On a side note, I am frustrated. I keep screwing things up. I stripped out the bolt for the tensioner, so I got a Heli-coil kit. But, I got the wrong thread pitch. I got 10x1.5 when I should have used 10x1.25, mainly because the guy at the store just handed me a 10mm one and I went with it. I have tapped out the hole about a half inch so far with the 1.5 thread pitch before I thought to look into it. I have the 10x1.25 kit on order. Have I completely messed it up?
 
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ShooterMcGavin said:
I haven't read about guys replacing the cam seals when doing the timing belt change, but I plan to do them. I rented the cam holder tool from O'Reilly's but it is not working. The bolt is on there so tight that the cam holder tool slips off the teeth. How have you guys held the cam in place to replace those seals?


On a side note, I am frustrated. I keep screwing things up. I stripped out the bolt for the tensioner, so I got a Heli-coil kit. But, I got the wrong thread pitch. I got 10x1.5 when I should have used 10x1.25, mainly because the guy at the store just handed me a 10mm one and I went with it. I have tapped out the hole about a half inch so far with the 1.5 thread pitch before I thought to look into it. I have the 10x1.25 kit on order. Have I completely messed it up?
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You stripped the hole the bolt goes into? That sucks! I don't think you completely messed it up yet but just proceed cautiously with what your doing so you don't make it any worse. Use some loctite on those new bolts and helicoils so they don't back out.

As far as the cam shaft pulleys, I used a chain wrench with the old timing belt wrapped around it along with an 1/2 impact.
 
Thanks for the advice. Yeah, that bolt hole stripped out really easily. I just really hope that I haven't ruined my chances of installing the right heli-coil into it.

Maybe I'll have to fashion some type of fancy wrench using the old belt.
 
I'm getting ready to do my timing belt and have the seals ready to go but lately I have been of the notion if it's not leaking leave it alone...I have used that logic on the last two clutch jobs when I actually had the rear main deal but didn't do it and no issues...don't fix something until it's broke ;)
 
ian1006 said:
I'm getting ready to do my timing belt and have the seals ready to go but lately I have been of the notion if it's not leaking leave it alone...I have used that logic on the last two clutch jobs when I actually had the rear main deal but didn't do it and no issues...don't fix something until it's broke ;)
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Well... there is merit in your point of view; I can appreciate that :) But, also, I have a dirty engine from possibly several oil leaks. I don't suspect there are leaks coming from the cam shafts at this point, but I have 270,000 miles on the engine now. At some point, they will need to be replaced. I kinda want to get it done :)
 
i use an impact for removing most nuts/bolts. it's quick and the cams don't move. then i torque them. you are already there, so why not replace the seals? the crankshaft also. unless you want to do the job only to have them start leaking and do the job over? no me. do it once, do it right.
 
01thunder said:
i use an impact for removing most nuts/bolts. it's quick and the cams don't move. then i torque them. you are already there, so why not replace the seals? the crankshaft also. unless you want to do the job only to have them start leaking and do the job over? no me. do it once, do it right.
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That's what I'm thinking. I have a Husky electric impact driver and a cheap air impact driver. I don't think either one has the power to remove the bolt on the end of the cam shafts.

I have already changed out the crank shaft seal. That was really easy.
 
ShooterMcGavin said:
That's what I'm thinking. I have a Husky electric impact driver and a cheap air impact driver. I don't think either one has the power to remove the bolt on the end of the cam shafts.

I have already changed out the crank shaft seal. That was really easy.
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You are correct in your thinking about replacing the cam seals with those miles.

You'd be surprised what an impact can get off as apposed to a breaker bar. That quick hammering action breaks the "bond" and makes quick work of a job that would find you leaning on a breaker bar with seemingly ridiculous force. Just try the pneumatic gun. You might get lucky.
 
No, the valve cover gaskets are a different job. That's on top of the valves and cams. The seals I'm doing are on the front side so the valve covers don't need to be removed.
 
Finish taping it with the 10x1.5 and get the right length 10x1.5 bolts for it.

You don't wanna **** up threads twice, and tapping the hole twice will do that. Thread pitch does not matter as long as bolt/hole match.
 
Cam Seal Puller

This is what I used to get the cam seals out. Takes literally 10 seconds at the most. No damage to the cams or surrounding aluminum. I have done the "put a screw into the seal" method which takes way longer. It's worth the $10 to get the tool in my mind.

People need to realize that just replacing seals willy nilly is not always the best thing to do. If it doesn't leak, replacing the seal can cause a leak. You have to weigh risk vs benefit. For example, if you have 300,000 miles and they have never been done, I would definitely do them if they have never been replaced. If you have 100K miles, and oil changes have been kept up, I would leave them because the risk of starting a leak by replacing the seals is greater than the risk of having a leak within the timeframe of the next timing belt change.

I replaced all my seals at 205K. Never been done.
 
Brian3676 said:
Finish taping it with the 10x1.5 and get the right length 10x1.5 bolts for it.

You don't wanna **** up threads twice, and tapping the hole twice will do that. Thread pitch does not matter as long as bolt/hole match.
Click to expand...

Good luck finding a M10x1.5 with a 10mm Allen head. That is going to be tough.
 
Brian3676 said:
Finish taping it with the 10x1.5 and get the right length 10x1.5 bolts for it.

You don't wanna **** up threads twice, and tapping the hole twice will do that. Thread pitch does not matter as long as bolt/hole match.
Click to expand...

I bought the 10x1.25 heli-coil kit. I used the tap and cleaned out the threads well. Everything seemed to work fine and I got it torqued back to spec. I am very relieved that it worked out.

stir_fry_boy said:
Cam Seal Puller

This is what I used to get the cam seals out. Takes literally 10 seconds at the most. No damage to the cams or surrounding aluminum. I have done the "put a screw into the seal" method which takes way longer. It's worth the $10 to get the tool in my mind.

People need to realize that just replacing seals willy nilly is not always the best thing to do. If it doesn't leak, replacing the seal can cause a leak. You have to weigh risk vs benefit. For example, if you have 300,000 miles and they have never been done, I would definitely do them if they have never been replaced. If you have 100K miles, and oil changes have been kept up, I would leave them because the risk of starting a leak by replacing the seals is greater than the risk of having a leak within the timeframe of the next timing belt change.

I replaced all my seals at 205K. Never been done.
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Thanks sfb. I bought that seal puller months ago, in preparation for this job. I used it on the crank shaft seal and it worked perfectly.

Also, I agree with your thoughts on seal replacement. A functioning seal should not be disturbed at 100k miles.

I have made a tool for holding the crank shaft pulley; I'm still hoping it will be strong enough to get the job done. I'll use it for the cam gears too.

Here's my tool:


Along with the seals and the other parts I'm replacing, I am also replacing a coolant hose that connects to a fitting just behind the thermostat and on the driver's side. I think it is Toyota part number 1577862030. Can someone help me confirm that?
Here is a picture of it. You can see the end of the hose, at the bottom of the photo... it looks a little worn, swollen, and mangled. Might as well put a new one on while I'm there.
 
Along with the seals and the other parts I'm replacing, I am also replacing a coolant hose that connects to a fitting just behind the thermostat and on the driver's side. I think it is Toyota part number 1577862030. Can someone help me confirm that?
Here is a picture of it. You can see the end of the hose, at the bottom of the photo... it looks a little worn, swollen, and mangled. Might as well put a new one on while I'm there.
Click to expand...


Glad you got it.

Your hose part # looks good. It goes to the oil cooler. There's another hose there too.

https://parts.camelbacktoyota.com/p...icleid=84044&diagram=8414090&diagramCallOut=4
 
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ShooterMcGavin said:
Ok, I'll consider it. I can't even get a glimpse of the other hose. If I can't see it, I'm afraid that it will be extremely difficult to get it on the fittings and get the clamps. Any tips or advice on that?
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That breakdown I posted shows the hoses run - sort of. I think I read that people had much more success going at the oil cooler and hoses through the wheel well. If it's too much of a pain, don't sweat it too much, I swear Toyota hoses last a long time under normal conditions.
 
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